Romancing the strawberries in Mahabaleshwar

Strawberries cherries and an angel’s kiss in spring …

That is exactly what Mahabaleshwar is all about in the Indian summer! A place to escape the torrid heat , a place to romance strawberries and mulberries, a place to cool off in the thunderous hailstorms that shower the hot tin roofs and plunge the temperatures for lovers to revel in!

Pic : Deepak

Mahabaleshwar has something for all – young and old, trekker and stroller, shopper and foodie or maybe someone who just loves to laze around. You will find a medley of people – families, backpackers, moony honeymooners, all doing their own thing and soaking in the atmosphere .

We spent a lazy afternoon in the market. Rows of strawberries, mulberries and chick peas beckoned us as we set out to do a recce of the restaurants in the area. There were quite a few vegetarian restaurants and a couple of restaurants serving non-vegetarian fare. We settled for a moghlai lunch. It was okay, nothing to write about, just about average.

Pic : Deepak

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Colourful People of Rajasthan – Photofeature of the week

Pic : Indrani

While strolling along the cities of Rajasthan, I found myself admiring the people of Rajasthan too. Especially the women, they wear bright outfits, colors like brilliant red, vibrant yellows and oranges, lively greens and dazzling blues. Women are a symbol of creation and that is why they wear colorful attires. Men wear white because it is symbolic of cleanliness and austerity.


Pic : Indrani

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Karwar-an idyllic beach

Karwar is beautiful . If you have ever dreamt of being in tune with the waves, bobbing along with the flow and gazing at the blue green waters, then look no further. Located just 8 kms from Goa, along the same coastline , it is completely different from the party destination with idyllic beaches . On one side is the narrow coast embracing the sea, while on the other side, the Western Ghats stand tall. Straddling both mountain and sea, Karwar is a nondescript little town perched in between, oblivious to its own beauty.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

Our first view of Devbagh was in the dark. After several stops enroute to Karwar, we got stalled by a traffic jam near the port where iron ores to be exported gets dumped by lorries. The road at some stretches seemed red. We were staying at the Jungle Lodges property at Devbagh and we quickly called the manager at the resort to inform him of our delay.A boat was waiting for us in the dark as we made our way to the jetty,which looked like a dilapidated boat house . We sailed across the sea in the night and reached the island.

The moonlight was a muse to none other than Tagore who was inspired by Karwar to pen his Prakritir Pratishodh. A beach here still remains in his memory. It is said that the 22 year old Tagore stayed with his brother , Satyendranath Tagore, who was the district judge in Karwar. The confluence of the rivers and the moonlight night when he went rowing solo promoted him to write his ode to Karwar. The quote I read somewhere says – “The sea beach of Karwar is certainly a fit place in which to realise that beauty of nature is not a mirage of imagination, but reflects the joy of the infinite and thus draws us to lose ourselves into it.”

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

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Daroji Bear Santuary – Bears in a heritage land

Think Hampi and the images that come to our mind are the ruins of the Vijaynagar empire with beautiful monuments strewn around the erstwhile capital town. On a hot sunny day, we travelled to Hampi and beyond. Our quest was not to celebrate the Hampi Utsav, but to look for the Indian Sloth Bear in “Daroji Bear Santuary”. Located in Bellary district and just 15 kms away Hampi, this wildlife sanctuary gives the town another identity besides mining and heritage.

Pic : Gowreesh K

Karnataka state government declared 5,587 acres of Bilikallu Reserve Forest as Daroji Bear Sanctuary in 1994 to protect the bear. The sloth bear population is today estimated about 120. They live in the naturally formed caves in the rocky mountains which are surrounded by dense forest.

Pic : Gowreesh K

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Prashar Lake- Off the Beaten Track

It all started with a picture I saw of Prashar Lake on the web. I was completely bowled over! I wrote to the website owner Avnish Katoch and he put me in touch with the photographer Yash Raj. Gradually, I learned that to reach Prashar Lake one can take the famous Delhi-Manali route up to Mandi. From Mandi, one can hire a jeep up to Prashar Lake or one can take a bus from Mandi to Bagi (and not Baggi, which is in the opposite direction) and then trek the rest of the way.

Pic : Mridula

Both Sesha and I have motion sickness on the mountain roads and never drive in the hills. But I know of people who have taken their own vehicle up to Prashar Lake from Delhi (for basic driving information explore the Indiamike link at the end of this post). We are also very fond of walking. So, for us it was a bus to Bagi and then trekking up to Prashar Lake. At Bagi, there is one Dhaba where we had bread omelet and tea for breakfast. The young lad running the place told me it took him 1.5 hours to reach Prashar Lake. It took us five hours to cover that distance and let me warn you the way is all uphill.

Pic : Mridula

There is only one place to stay there, the forest department guest house that has to be pre-booked. After walking for five hours the people running the guest house were not very keen to believe us about our reservation. I simply told them that they have to give us the room as I was so tired after walking, I would not go away anywhere else. That worked.

The cook at the forest department guest house has to use wood to make food. So, you get either rice and dal or Chapattis with vegetables. There are two canteens at the lake where you can get tea and Maggi and basic food too if there are enough people at the lake.

Pic : Mridula

If by now you have started questioning why anyone in their right minds would head to such a place, then the answer is the because of the peace and tranquility and the uniqueness of the scenery. The lake on weekends is visited only by a few locals. During the weekdays you can have it entirely to yourself. And take a look at the picture, who would not be tempted to have such a place all to oneself, even if for a few hours!

Pic : Mridula

However, when it was our turn to come back, we refused to contemplate the steep trek route even though this time the walk would have been downhill. We managed to arrange a ride back with a jeep that had come to deliver supplies to one of the canteens.

If you wish to go, here are some useful resources-

A discussion on Indiamike, which I started to gather information before the trip and updates after the trip

My earlier article on Gonomad.com about the Prashar Lake.

Some stunning pictures of the Prashar Lake taken in December by a colleague

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Nepal and the Himalayas

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Call of the Wild, night safari at Masinagudi

Warning : The call of the wild is a cry that should not be ignored . It can cause you sleepless nights You will be woken up in the night by howling wolves and you will start seeing silhouettes of elephants next to you in the dark ! A snake will slither down your feet as an invisible insect will screech into your ears .. So, when the cry started echoing in our ears , we decided to pack our bags and drive down to the forests .

Jungle Lake, Masinagudi

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

Our destination was Masinagudi, a secluded quaint town, lost to the wilderness. Nestled at the foothills of the Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu, I was told that historically this border town was the capital of the erstwhile kingdom of Wayanad .. It derives its name from the Goddess Masaniamma . Abutting the wildlife sanctuaries of Bandipur in Karnataka and Mudhumalai in Tamil Nadu, Masinagudi can be best described in one word – WILD!

We left Bangalore in the wee hours of the morning and drove towards Mysore. The forests presented themselves as we reached Bandipur. The cool breeze brushed past our cheek ; a slight drizzle lent some freshness to the air. A carpet of greens veiled our eyes .The sun filtered through the canopy of bamboos that were scattered around. We crossed the Karnataka border and drove in almost silent reverence across the Mudhumalai sanctuary. A deer darted through the bush . A peacock raised its head. The silence was only punctuated by the sharp cries of the babblers who probably announced our arrival.

Masinagudi is a cluster of hamlets like Theppakadu, Bokkapuram which are dotted with resorts and home stays that offer a ‘jungli’ experience .Most of them are nestled in the woods, or high up in the trees or lost in a sprawling coffee estate and are an extension of the jungle , where elephants freely roam ..For them , there is no border, nor state nor permit..The densely thick jungles are their abode and we are mere trespassers in their territory.

Deer

Photo courtesy – FlickR – S I N H A

And thats precisely what we learnt as we went on a night safari. It was well past midnight and we were the last motley bunch who ventured out in the night. It was a bright starry night..The wind was cold and we were in an open jeep, eagerly awaiting the sighting of animals..We drove very slowly and the trees looked eerie and long .Our driver and guide, Sashi kept the night alive talking about wildlife escapades when the jeep suddenly stopped slowly ..A large shadow obstructed our gaze as the jeep pulled up..We dimmed the headlights and there was an elephant taking ownership of the road. The light from the moon graced its hide . There was pin drop silence as we gazed at the elephant in reverence.

Our driver whispered and our gaze followed his finger – we saw not one but a herd, including a calf, snuggling to its mother..The elephants were on both sides of the road, probably crossing .The first one on our left turned towards us as the driver mumbled it was getting ready to charge. We switched off the lights and waited silently. A few moments passed and it seemed like eternity. A slight movement and the jeep moved.

Masinagudi

Image Courtesy Voyage on Wheels

We went upto Theppakadu with no more nocturnal visitors when suddenly we saw two huge shadows on our right .They were mammoth bisons , grazing , with their back to us , oblivious of us.. Suddenly a truck whizzed past us, shattering the silence and the bison’s supper. They did an above turn and were on their forelegs, all ready to charge. The sheer size stunned us and the horns looked absolutely devilish. This was scarier than the previous experience..We quickly backed off and then took a detour and returned..We could not take photographs as the light was low, and flash has to be avoided..But I guess memories are best etched in minds..and probably , in words

Very often, its not the destination so much, but the journey which is exciting.. And so it is with jungle life and safari tours. Sighting wild life alone is not fun, it’s the chase that makes it exciting…We couldnt have asked for a wilder escapade. The weekend just whizzed past us , as we trekked, walked, laughed and chilled..The days were spent basking in the sun , going for safaris, a drive to Ooty veering past 36 hairpin bends and the nights staring at the sky, listening to the insects , counting stars …

Getting there
Masinagudi is a border town and can be reached from either of the three southern states. From Tamil Nadu, the closest airport is Coimbatore at .140 kms..and the farthest is Chennai at 575 kms . From Ooty its about 36 kms and Mettupalaym , about 80 kms . If you are driving like us from Bangalore, its a distance of 260 kms .and 106 .fm Mysore and it takes about five hours.

From Kerala, the closest airports are Kochi at 212 kms and Kozhikodu at 123 kms . Vythiri in Wynad is 93kms away . An ideal weekend getaway from any of these cities, Masinagudi is closest to Mudhumalai wild life sanctuary at 15kms and Bandipur at 25 kms . Buses are a plenty from Coimbatore, Mysore or Gudalur ( a town enroute to Bandipur from Mysore) but the roads at some strectches are bad.

Accomodation
There are several clusters of villages here where resorts and home-stays are aplenty to suit every budget. There is a Mahindra Holidays resort, the Casa Deep Woods, a beautiful property for our discerning members. Activities will include safaris – morning, evening and night, bird watching and treks which are usually at an extra cost. The sanctuary has its own safaris as well, besides private operators and you can explore the jungles atop an elephant.

This area is also populated with various tribes and if interested, you can delve deep into their history and their ways of life as well . There are also several places of interest around Masinagudi which includes rubber and coffee estates, temples and caves, waterfalls and lakes and vantage points atop mountains to enjoy great views or visit some of the hill stations like Ooty, Coonoor, Vythiri, Gopal Swamy Beta.

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Anuradha Shankar
Anuradha Shankar
A mother, traveller, freelance writer, compulsive bookworm.. not necessarily in that order. She lives in Mumbai and aims to travel as much as she can across the country. Her blog 'A Wandering Mind' is primarily a travel blog, but true to its name it wanders all the time - from events to random thoughts, book reviews to her son's latest peccadilloes!
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