We are driving through the mountains in Ladakh, listening to local music and our driver Dorjee turns out to be a die hard romantic. As the landscape changes, Dorjee gets a bit emotional talking about his family in Zanskar and the baby he is expecting in a few months.

And then he goes on an impromptu karoke session and sings out aloud . I ask him to translate the lyrics and he complies with a grin.

The chortens and the mani wheels whizz past us . The music suddenly changes and Dorjee is a bit silent. I tease him and he interrupts me in Hindi, “ This is not a romantic song madam, its a poem by Tsangyang Gyatso, our 6th Dalai Lama.” Dorjee does not elaborate further as we drive towards the lake Panggong Tso .

We spot a bit of green as we near the wetlands. And then something moves . The birder in me comes alive as I gesture to Dorjee to stop. “ Cha Tungtung karbo, madam..never seen them near Panggong before, “ he says as I move closer to take a picture of the black necked cranes .

The bird of Kashmir is a large whitish grey bird and has a black head, red crown patch , black upper neck and legs and a white patch near the eye. Another car stops by and we spend some silent moments clicking away.

Then Dorjee breaks the silence. “Cha means bird and tung tung karbo is long legged and white. That song madam, “ he says referring to the earlier melody “is a poem on the white crane . It talks about the rebirth of the Dalai Lama who was believed to have been murdered .”Cranes do have a spiritual significance in Buddhism as they symbolize marital longetivity. In fact I read later they have their own monastery and festival in Bhutan where they return every year.

Back home, I spoke to Gopi Sundar from the international crane foundation . I learnt that these Tibetan cranes visit Ladakh probably from the river valleys of Tibet for breeding between June and September. “When the snow melts, you will find these birds coming in pairs, marking their territories and dancing- a part of their hormonal activity. You would probably find 30 nests here, “ he says adding the remaining 60-70 are non breeders. The chicks later fly with their parents who are fiercely protective, guarding them from feral dogs. “Real estate is a serious issue here, “ says Gopi referring to the loss of habitat for these cranes as wetlands become lesser and tourism increases as well. Its tough life to be a crane now , “ he laughs. Listening to him, I go back to the walks around the lakes where Dorjee treated us to the prophetic song and dedicated it to his family

White crane, lovely bird,
Lend me your wings!
I’m not going far and away,
I’ll return through the land of Litang.

Peacocks from the east of India,
Parrots from the lower Kongpo area!
Though (their) birthplaces are different,
(Their) meeting-place is Lhasa, the land of Dharma wheels.

The willow lost its heart to the bird,
The bird lost its heart to the willow!
If affection concords in harmony,
The hawk cannot overpower (them).

Can you narrate your travel experiences or get philosophical about it – all in 125 characters ?!
If thats got your attention, welcome to the “Two Line Travelverse” contest. Here is an opportunity to share your travel verse with the world and also win prizes!

How do you participate in the contest…

1. If you don’t have a Twitter id, get yourself one!
2. Follow Club Mahindra on Twitter (twitter.com/clubmahindra)
3. Tweet your contribution to @clubmahindra.com.
   For e.g. refer to the image below.
   

 …there are also special prizes for retweeting (RT); the contestant with the most number of RTs also wins!

Whats in for the contestants?

Selected entries will win…

• Travel goodies which include books, travel gear etc.
• Featured in Clay, Facebook and Twitter!

The contest ends on March 14th, but early birds always have preference! So get started and let the verses flow.

The charm of the railways is unmistakable. But it was a nondescript railway junction that made journalist, Bishwanath Ghosh literally change tracks. The writer in Ghosh was inspired by life in these railway junctions as he went on to write about them in his maiden travel book – ” Chai Chai – Travels in Places where you stop but never get off.” CLAY spoke to the Chennai based author and here is his take on travel writing .

1.What got you to write a travel book ?
I decided to write the book about two years ago. I was travelling from Kanpur to Chennai, returning from my annual Diwali trip to home. The train had stopped at Itarsi station. Itarsi is a big junction. I was having tea at the platform and during the nearly 10 minutes that I spent at the platform, I heard names of stations from virtually every corner of India being mentioned. It suddenly struck me, “People all parts of the country pass through this place, so many cultures criss-cross this station, and yet I know nothing about Itarsi except that it is a railway junction. What lies outside the railway station? Who all live there? What do they do?” Subsequently, the publishers approached me to write a travel book. They wanted something different. So I chose seven junctions that people invariably pass through during train journeys but where they never get off. I made these junctions my destination and that’s how the book came about. I started with Mughal Sarai, came to Jhansi, then Itarsi. Moving down south, I covered Guntakal, Arakkonam, Jolarpettai and Shoranur.

2. It’s not often that people choose their first book to be about nondescript places which hardly features on any tourist maps…
Mine is a travel book and not a guidebook for tourists. It is a study of your own backyard, which you take for granted to the extent of ignoring it. But these are places, the small towns and the villages, where the real India lives. My book satisfies my own curiosity, and perhaps the curiosity of hundreds of others, about what lies outside the yard of these railway stations.

3. As a traveller, what catches your attention about a place?
Anonymity. Anonymity leads to curiosity, and curiosity makes you travel and discover.

4. The book is full of sights and sounds of a destination and anecdotes. Is there a specific sight or a sound that still remains with you.
The bustling markets in the evenings – people shopping for groceries, chaatwallahs doing brisk business, small-time bars full of people, men loitering around in paan shops or chaurahas. No one is ever in a hurry, they have all the time in the word. That’s the life we left behind 20 or 30 years ago.

5. What is your take on travel writing today?
Travel writing is yet to evolve, in the sense we still have a Paul Theroux giving us his take on India. But on the tourist-writing front, yes, Indians are discovering a lot of off-the-beaten-track places, which is heartening. Just about 10 years ago, no one was making such discoveries.

6. “Real India” today as it is portrayed seems to have become ironically a perspective of the foreigners only. Do you feel your book has broken that mould?
In a sense, yes. Because if you look up the internet, you will hardly find any information about a place like Mughal Sarai. But now you have a book that has an entire chapter devoted to Mughal Sarai. And the book has not been written by a foreigner, but an Indian.

7. What is your take on more opportunities to aspiring travel writers today?
The idea is not to be blind to your own backyard just because you live there. Questions need to be asked all the time: how did your backyard come into being, why is it the way it is today, what it means to other people, and so on. A traveller and a tourist are two different people. A tourist usually looks for a bed of grass to walk on, while for a traveller it can often be a bed of thorns.

The sculpture calls out to me. Carved in stone is a story of a devout cowherd called Chandesa who worships an icon of Shiva on sand and anoints it with milk. His father angrily strikes him and Chandesa retaliates . His staff turns into an axe chopping off his father’s legs, just when Shiva lands on the scene and accepts him into his fold. When the guide finished his narration, it seemed to be just another tale from Indian mythology; but it did not end there.

“ See the sculpture carefully , the cowherd is a prince and the prince is the great Rajendra Chola 1,” he said explaining that this could be an allegory . Engraved in stone is the coronation ceremony of Rajendra Chola 1 graced by the Gods – Shiva and Parvati as the prince dedicates all his laurels to them .The sculpture that depicts this celebrated moment is the famous Chandesanugraha murthi panel from the Brihadeshwara temple.

I am in Gangaikondacholapuram,the long lost capital of Rajendra Chola 1 which has mysteriously disappeared leaving behind this mammoth temple. This was the town that once ruled all of India upto the Gangetic plain and also Srilanka, Maldives, Malyasia and Indonesia.
When Rajendra Chola 1 conquered the Gangetic plain, he wanted to portray to posterity that he was probably greater than his father Raja Raja Chola 1 who had immortalised himself with the Big Brihadeshwara temple in Thanjavur.

So he built another Brihadeshwara temple in a new found capital called Gangaikondacholapuram. However he did not complete the temple. And he finally ensured that his father’s temple was bigger than his. There were no answers to this sudden change of heart. Probably the panel was a clue to the sudden decision says my guide.

The towering 180 feet tall Vimana seem to touch the sky announcing its existence in this otherwise dead capital . A majestic Nandi obstruct our gaze. A few gardeners are tending to the lawn while we soak in the ambience. Various forms of Shiva captured in different moods stand out in the artistic mosaic.

A giant lion shaped sculpture called Simhakinar in the form of the Chola emblem stares at you . ” This is the way the defeated kings used to go down and pour the water they brought down from the Ganga,” says the guide. I peer down and see a flight of steps leading through a tunnel below into a huge well filled with murky water. Rajendra built another huge reservoir which was about 22kms long and elephants were used by the armies to bring the water from the river. “He had brought back more than 1000 pots of holy Ganga water and performed the Kumbabhishekam,” adds my guide.

We move on looking for the palace and reach a small mound close by called Malligai medu near a small village called Ulkottai An empty spectacle of sand and rocks greet us. Recent excavations have unearthed some priceless treasures which are now sheltered in a small hut near the temple complex where the State ASI’s museum remains. A Buddha stands on the stony pavement along with some banana vendors as we enter the hut. Smiling silently at me is the king himself from a painting against the wall. The image stays with me as we drive down the highway.

We were in Madikeri when we heard this story. A Haleri king was on a hunting expedition when he suddenly saw his wild dogs chased by a hare in a small hillock. He decided to build a fort there immediately as he felt a powerful energy vibrated from the region which made a meek hare courageous . A mud wall garrison was built there and the hamlet, which became the capital of the dynasty was named after the king. The king was Mudduraja , the dynasty was Haleri and the capital was called Muddu Raja Keri or Muddurakayray , what we today call Madikeri.

The Haleri Kings who ruled Coorg or Kodagu for over 200 years were Lingayats and their origin is traced to Veeraraja, a nephew of Sadashiva Nayaka of the Ikkeri Dynasty. . As the Vijaynagar empire crumbled, Veeraraja, who dreamt of establishing his own dynasty was looking to exploit the weakness of local kingdoms. His ambition took him to Kodagu which was then ruled by various Nayaks .

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

Disguised as a “jangama “ or a priest with healing power, he established a small group of followers in Haleri . He slowly overthrew the local Nayaks , including the formidable Karenbahu of Bhagamandala and Talacauvery and went on to become the lord of Kodugu with Haleri as capital .His grandson, Mudduraja later changed the capital to Madikeri and the dynasty ruled from the 17th century to the 19th century.

The Madikeri fort is today one of the few symbols of this powerful dynasty. It was eventually rebuilt in granite by Tippu Sultan who named the site as Jaffarabad.It was recaptured by the Haleri ruler Doddaveer Rajendra in the 18th century and it later fell into the hands of the British who renamed it as Mercara . Today the fort houses a palace, a temple, a chapel, a prison and a museum where you can see hero stones or virakkals among other things.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

We embarked on the trail of this dynasty. Further away from the city is Gaddige or the Raja’s tombs, which are the Samadhis of the kings Doddaveerarajendra and Lingarajendra. A solemn air hung around and it was deserted almost but for a few boys who were playing cricket. The tombs of the divans and army commanders were also placed here. The domes and the minarets at four corners mounted by carved bulls stand tall against the sky.

The sun was setting and a mist threatened to rob the sun of its last few moments of glory . We headed to Raja’s Seat to watch the tussle. This popular tourist spot which boasts of scenic views was the seat of the royalty to admire nature.and also throw probably to throw their enemies down the hill.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

A visit to Madikeri is never complete without a visit to the.19th century Omkareshwar temple built by Lingarajendra II dedicated to Shiva. Built in the Indo Sarcenic style, it has elements of Gothic and Islamic architecture as well and it is said that there could have been a secret passage below that leads to the palace of the king.

We drove towards Virajpet – one of the key towns and erstwhile capital named after Virarajendra, the Haleri king . It is said that Dodda Veerarajendra established the town in the 18th century to commemorate his meeting with the British General Abercrombie during their joint war against Tippu Sultan .

Virajpet which is just 30 kms from Madikeri is an important town today for coffee and spices and the St Anne’s Church and Clock tower stand tall, today reminiscent of the colonial era . The interesting aspect is that Virajpet was once an amalgamation of various communities such as Telugus,Tamilians, Malayalis, Bunts, Moplas, Christians,Brahmins and even Bengalis.Even today you can see streets like Bengali Street, Telugu street going by the cosmopolitan nature of the town that housed several communities..

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

We then went in search of a small palace where the Haleri Dyansty came to an end .Our trail ended in a small hamlet called Yavakapadi in Kakkabe where Nalknad Aramane built by Dodda Veerarajendra in the 18th century awaited us .

There were coffee plantations all around. A small mud road appeared out of no where .A beautiful two storey structure painted in red with a tiled roof, old wall paintings and pillars gazed at us as we opened the portals of the palace. A small mandapa in white was located close by. A drizzle started as we heard a sound behind us. A caretaker had silently moved in and was opening the main door for us. We were the only visitors. As we soaked in the moment, we were given a capsule of history .

During one of the wars with Tipu Sultan, Dodda Veerarajendra had to retreat and he came to this dense forest. He converted it as an operation base and built a palace and even got married here . This palace was the final refuge of the last king , Chikkaveerarajendra before he was deposed by the British and it symbolised the end of the Haleri dynasty .The caretaker showed us around as we climbed a small ladder , saw the hidden chamber in the roof , the torture room, the royal bedrooms and the main.durbar

It was ironic that the Haleri kings who had befriended the British to fight Tipu Sultan was finally deposed by the Europeans. As we walked back, we saw a few tourists who had just returned from their trek toThadiyandamole . The sun had set as we walked back to our homestay, wondering how this silent monument would have once been a scene of battles fought and won.

The article was published in the Deccan Herald recently.A guided tour of Coorg will be launched soon and the details will be available here.

“Idhar se aap dekhenge to aapko puri Mewar dikayidegi..aur udhar se Marwar” . My guide Firoze smiles as our translator takes over. “He is saying that you can see all of Mewar from here and from there, Marwar, “ translates Rashmi Dhanwani , a human rights activist from Mumbai .

I am at the Kumbalgarh fort in Rajasthan with a group of achievers who have been part of the “Cerebrate team.”Rashmi from our group takes over the role of the translator .

Standing almost at the roof of the fort , I see a 360* landscape of modern day Rajasthan spanning out in front of me.Kumbalgarh fort built in the 15th century by Rana Kumbha in the Aravalli Range had forked Mewar and Marwar and was a political asylum for many princes ,including Rana Udai Singh who later on founded Udaipur, about 90 kms away from here .Feroze continues as Rashmi translates, “Udaipur, Chittorgarh and Kumbalgarh form Mewar , while Jodhpur,Jaisalmer , Barmer is Marwar.”

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

My eyes trace the 36 kms length of the wall of the fort, said to be the second longest in the world after trhe Great Wall of China. The soft hues of the setting sun caress the walls. My reverie is interuppted by Rashmi who narrates the story of Kumbalgarh. Rana Kumbha ‘s attempted to build the fory, but failed until he met a saint who offered himself as a human sacrifice. The martyr apparently advised the king to construct the fort after his death. “ He said to build a temple where the head fell and the main fort where the body lay and a wall was built along the entire stretch.” We pause by as Firoze shows us the two spots which are now worshipped.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

There are nine gates to the fort, the most massive being the Ram Pol or the Ram Gate. We walk past the various gates and gather around Rashmi as she explains.“This is where the lamp was lit,”. According to a legend, Rana Kumbha used to light a massive lamp which used to shine brightly across all of Mewar. “ It is like a symbol of power,” translates Rashmi “and attracted even the queen of Jodhpur to abandon her husband and come here.” The story however did not end up like that of Helen of Troy, as the Rana apparently made the queen his sister and a war was averted.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

There are more than 300 temples within in the fort, a mix of both Jain and Hindu temples. “This is where the legendary Rana Pratap was born as well ,” They patiently wait for us to take pictures, before resuming the narration,” Here you can see the royal queen’s rooms including her toilets !” The guide continues,as we walked down the fort and sit on the steps of a temple overlooking the fort. And then the fort relives its glory, but for a few minutes as the lights come on . We take in the scene as silence reigns .

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

There is romance in the air and traveling by itself , according to me is completely romantic . There is a bit of discovery, a sense of being lost, a moment of warmth , a dash of magic and a feeling of letting go. Our writers go gaga over places that turn them on and recommend their romantic wish, nay claylist..

Pic : Indrani

Indrani says an ideal place to drool is Udaipur

At sundown maybe you can take your beloved for a boat ride ala Venice on the lake too and enjoy the myriad shades of a glorious sunset.

If you are energetically inclined, hike up to Mount Kalsubai, Maharashtra’s highest peak at 1646 m. This is a day’s trek from Bhandardara, and can be combined with Ratanwadi, 22 km away; the 8th century Amruteshwar temple; and the 400-year-old Ratangad Fort where the Maratha warrior Shivaji rested on his laurels. The ancient Agastya Rishi Ashram on the banks of the Pravara River is another attraction. The ashram is mentioned in the Ramayana as the spot where Ram met Agastya Rishi.

For Charukesi, the hills of Matheran beckon her with a romance in the air.

Pic : Charukesi

My vote is for Matheran. In a world that boasts of largeness and moreness, a charming board at Dasturi Naka enroute Matheran proudly announces – Matheran is the tiniest hillstation in the world. Awwww… And more importantly, Matheran is the only pedestrian destination in Asia. Imagine, no cars, no blaring horns, no fumes… Traffic jam is when two ponies meet midway on opposite sides to their ride to and from the top and exchange pleasantries… Other than that, only the green hills, and during the monsoons, thick grey clouds. Matheran to me is the perfect place to get lost.

Celine says it all with flowers at the Valley of Flowers.

Imagine picturesque narrow mountain roads, scenic landscape, the ephemeral clouds wrapping the mountains – some green, some bare and a few snow-clad. Picture scenes of rich vegetation and forests interspersed with craggy rocks, gusts of winds and drizzle on and off, the meandering rivers shifting their shape in the valleys, sometimes serene, other times turbulent.

Pic : Celine

Can you visualize scenes of mist on the trails with a transitory tone of its own, awesome valleys, the intriguing melting glaciers, the gushing clear water from the mountain streams, and green meadows carpeted with beautiful wild flowers. With the mountains, peaks, valleys, meadows, trees, streams, rivers, glaciers, nature is in its unsurpassed splendour at the Valley of Flowers!

So often I’ve stopped on my tracks, gazed at the magnificent mountains, gasped in silence and taken in its beauty. Nature has so much on display that I felt like staying there forever to fully appreciate and enjoy what it offers.

The mystery and magic of romance needs the perfect surroundings for it to blossom in all its beauty. To me, no other place has been more romantic than the Himalayan mountains of the Valley of Flowers!

For Udit Baranwal, the cool Kasauli calls for intimacy.

Pic : Udit Baranwal

Kasauli is a perfect valentine destination this season. A very calm and beautiful place provides everyone an opportunity to any couple to run from routine life and indulge in a rare privacy. Unlike close destinations like Shimla or Manali, Kasauli provides the silence and privacy any couple can ask for. Romance is mixed in the air and one has to feel it to live the experience.

I would like to soak my emotions and head to a beach. In the temple town called Gokarna along the Karnataka coastline five virgin beaches beckon me and my favourite is OM Beach…nothing to do with mythology , as the picture shows.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

Vamsee has lost her heart in San Francisco and she writes this with a song in her heart.

Pic : Vamsee

Not Rome, not New York, not Sydney, not even Paris – for us, San Francisco is the most romantic city in the world. Every single time we went to SF, we would come back happy and more in love than ever. The city that forms the backdrop of more than half of Hollywood’s love stories leaves an indelible mark on every visitor. For the perfect experience, take a ferry from Oakland. As the boat goes under the bay bridge, San Francisco reveals its stunning skyline. Not as impressive as Chicago or as intimidating as Manhattan, San Francisco has a charming mix of heritage buildings and new age skyscrapers. The ferry building beckons you with its stylish European stores selling everything from Provence Lavender to Burgundy wine to Russian Caviar. Eat some fresh fruit at the farmers market on the Embarcadero and settle down at ‘Slanted Door’ for the best Vietnamese food in all of California and perhaps the US.

Shop at the stylish boutiques of Union Square or check out the free outdoor music / dance performances. Foot board the historic cable car and experience the rush of climbing the nearly vertical streets of Nob Hill. Walk down the world’s most crooked Street while admiring the colorful dahlias and French hydrangeas and come upon the most glorious view of the Pacific Ocean and Angel Island. Sights of couples (gay and lesbian and heterosexual) kissing and hugging on the street inspire you to indulge in public display of affection. Go to Ghirardelli chocolate factory and share a banana split ice cream with hot fudge. Late in the evening, walk towards Crissy field and watch the sun set behind the golden gate bridge. Finish off the day by going to ‘Greens’ an organic restaurant at Fort Mason. Order some biodynamic wine and raise your glasses in toast to the most romantic day in the most romantic city. On your way back home, don’t be surprised if you start singing

I left my heart in San Francisco High on a hill, it calls to me. The morning fog may chill the air I don’t care! My love waits there in San Francisco Above the blue and windy sea .

The Sunday Times in its review had said that this book is “best avoided by patriots with high blood pressure.” Travel writer Paul Theroux’s tongue in cheek perspective of the British and their sensibilities, mannerisms, quirks and eccentricities justifies the above statement. The Kingdom by the Sea is an American’s account of the United Kingdom and is more about people than places with dollops of humour thrown in.

It is the summer of 1982 and the hot topic of the moment is the Falkland War .The author living in London as a foreigner decides to travel clockwise around the coast across England, Wales, Scotland and ireland . He walks – an average of 15-20 miles a day , stops by ports and fishing villages, travels in trains and buses ,lives in country inns and hotels which offer bed and breakfast and narrates his encounters with people he meets .The stiff upper lip slowly thaws revealing its unique traits.

The proverbial English weather is discussed along with politics and royalty in the same vein. Theroux slowly turns into a bit of a literary tourist , stopping by at a Dickensian town or showcasing Shakespearre Cliff or the place where Keats edited Endymion. While the war is raging in the backdrop and urbanisation becomes a key theme, the context however is more about the British way of life and their take on everything. As he travels, the American point of view becomes more pronounced as he reflects on the mannerisms of the English with the classic dry humour. Sample this for instance .
“The whole enterprise of bed and breakfast was carried on by the woman but done with a will, because she was actually getting paid for doing her normal household chores….Usually I was treated with a mixture of shyness and suspicion but that was traditional English hospitality – wary curiosity and frugal kindness. “

Or their take on the Queen –
“I saw the Queen ,” he said , and he winced , remembering.
“How did she look ?”
He winced again. His name was Dougie. He wore gumboots.He said.” She were deep in thought.”
Dougie had seen something that no one else had.
“ She were preoccupied.Her face was gray. She werent happy.”
I said,” I thought shewas happy about her new grandson.”
Dougie disagreed . “I think she were worried about something .They do worry, you know. Aye,its a terrible job. “
He began to walk slowly, as if in sympathy for the hard pressed Queen.
I said,” Being Queen of England has its compensations.”
“Some compensations and some disadvantages,” Dougie said.”I say its half a dream world and half a nightmare.Its a gold fish bowl.No privacy ! She cant pick her nose without someone seeing her.”
Dougie said this in an anguished way , and I thought it was curious, though I did not say so,that he was pained because the monarch could not pick her nose without being observed .”

As the reader travels with the author, Theroux’s genius as a travel writer comes through , best summed in the lines – “ All travellers are optimists, I thought. Travel itself is a sort of optimism in action. I always went along thinking : I’ll be alright, I’ll be interested, I’ll discover something, I wont break a leg or get robbed, and at the end of day, I will find a nice old place to sleep.”

The kohl brimmed eyes smile at me coyly. ”It is the jasmine flavour,” she says by way of introduction . My eyes close as a heady fragrance lulls me to sleep. The distant flicker of the lamp goes slowly out of focus. A lilting melody floats out of nowhere.

“This is the Shrishruka thailam .It treats sinus,” she adds softly. I open my eyes as she pours the oil from a miniature bronze jar onto her palms. Sandhya, my therapist  is a demure young woman whose delicate fingers work magic on my scalp .

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I am in  God’s own country , getting a taste of God’s own medicine  at Svaastha, an ayurvedic spa started by Club Mahindra in Ashtamudi. Outside the waters from the lake are gently lashing against the coconut trees as the sun ‘s rays paint silvery hues.

I try not to think. After all massages are about shutting your mind and pampering your body. The fingers soothe every ache and coax the rigid muscles as they move from the head to the neck .I feel the essence of ayurveda inside me – a harmony of mind, body and spirit . I float into semi-consciousness . The wooden bed is soaked with the oil –Pinda thailayam as Sandhya deftly strokes my body, caressing and  fondling it . She suddenly pounds  it and awakens every dormant muscle. Her fingers go deep, the strokes get faster and then she gently lets go .I become limp and let my senses take over .The herbal steam lets my skin glisten as the warmth seeps into my body.

I am in the hands of divine medicine, created by Brahma himself and Dhanvantri,“ That’s Ayurveda, a 4000 year old science, a part of Atharvana veda, created by the gods and preserved by man ,”explains ayurvedic doctor Ratheesh Kumar who hast just  diagnosed that my body is a “pitha-vatha combination.” He  refers  to the bio energies in the human body -  vatha, pitha and kafa .”Vatha is air and ether, pitha is fire and kafa is water and earth. “ he explains as ayurveda is based on these five elements called Panchamahabudhas .”

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I step out ,rejuvenated and the beauty is mesmerising .The breeze had just set in clearing the overcast clouds .The coconut trees gently swayed ,touching the backwaters which lashed against them. I stand at the edge of this wide shore and take in the scene , as Dr. Ratheesh joins me , exclaiming.“ This could not have been done by a human.. ..” I look up to see him holding a book on Ayurveda.

“Can you imagine 4000 years ago.. getting all the herbs from various parts of the country and mixing them in the right proportion ? I mean there was no documentation at all ,” adds the doctor about this science of life.
The Ashtamudi lake stretches out in front of my eyes with the coconut trees interrupting the seamless flow. Shades of blue emerge from the waters as I was lost gazing at the colours. It is one of the best kept secrets of Kerala.

The second largest lake after Vembanad and yet , tourism is a recent phenomena here. The Chinese nets lay scattered on the waters as the fishermen are waiting for the night to dawn. Small green islands glisten like emeralds against the blue horizon , some of them home to just three or four families. And their connection to civilisation is only through narrow canals and wooden bridges.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I ask Dr Ratheesh as to why he chose to become an ayurvedic doctor . He laughs, amused .”As children, we used to go only to ayurvedic doctors even for a cold or fever like the way you go to a regular doctor.. its quite common in Kerala .There are universities teaching ayurveda here like allopathy ,” he adds, saying that he graduated from Trivandrum after a five year course.

I wonder how an ancient science like ayurveda has become an exotic treatment, restricted largely to resorts and a few centres.” Thats because tourism thrives on wellness , but ayurveda can even be used for surgery ,” explains the doctor adding that there are nine branches of ayurveda which includes general medicine, surgery, ENT, pediatrics, toxicology, gynecology ,psychiatry, infertility and anti-aging . Reading my mind, the doctor continues,” The basic principle of surgery as we know today was earlier created by Susruta, but after the advent of Jainism and Buddhism , dissection as we understand today was not encouraged.. then of course, western medicine took over..”

I sip cool coconut water and walk around the small herbs garden. My initiation into ayurveda continues .”There is hardly any documentation. Families have preserved the various formulae on palm leaf and hand written manuscripts and they have been handed down every generation. Thats how this science has actually survived across centuries.”

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

A lone boatman waves out to us . We walk towards the lake as he offers us a ride. The Kallada river empties into the Ashtamudi lake and creates eight branches giving the lake its name. “Its like an octopus with eight hands “ says my boatman Balu describing the lake. We discuss the route. I cross several small islands and go around the Thalababuram bridge . Balu  points to “ seacrows”  as the cormorants  dip their beaks in the waters catching their morning fish . The herons and storks give them company.

The villages make a pretty picture. Colourful houses in yellow, orange and lavender stand out amidst the blue green mosaic.  Life unfolds in these little villages. An old man comfortably reads the morning paper in his boat.Another duo are returning home. A young girl along with her father are rowing their mother to the neighbouring market. A group of villagers are dressed for church as they board the boat. Balu says the boats made of wood from mango trees is very sturdy .He gets animated when we discuss fishing.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

“ There are different specialists – for prawns, karimeen, crabs and even the local fish –Kuzhavali.” Balu then delves into the different kinds of nets and techniques used for fishing. However  the rods stand out as the nets are still not  ready . “Fishing happens only in the night madam, the fishermen are sleeping now,” he explains.

The early morning karimeen auction is just over. There is complete silence but for the breeze . The landscape is devoid of people , but for us. I look at the vast expanse of water, the sun’s rays stroking it, the birds and the islands.. Its little wonder why Kerala is called Gods own country. The doctor’s words come back “Svaastha or Ayurveda is a balance of body, mind and spirit ..” Cruising down the Ashtamudi lake, I feel the balance restored inside me.

Pic : Sharath K

Getting there
Kollam or Quilon is the closest town to Ashtamudi as its on the banks of the lake. The lake connects to the Arabian Sea forming an estuary and it can be viewed from the Needakara bridge enroute to the Kollam town. The beach at Kollam and the old lighthouse at Thangasherry are some of the common sightseeing options for tourists. There are very few resorts here, besides the Club Mahindra resort. A few homestays and small private resorts are available . House boats are available at Kollam as well. It is about 70 kms from Trivandrum International airport

Every year begins with a list – a wishlist. We asked our writers what is that one place in 2009 they would list down as a recommendation or a destination for our readers and they shared their wishlist with us. Here are some of the milestones you could aim for in 2009 .

Mridula, a travel blogger from Delhi says mountains are alluring.

Spiti in Himachal Pradesh is a high altitude region with breathtaking views of chocolate colored mountains, curling Spiti river, stunning lakes (Chandratal, Dhankar) and ancient monasteries( Ki, Tabo, Dhankar). We did a home stay trek in the region but the same places can be visited by motorcycles and jeeps too. The only caution is to be aware of the altitude and how it may affect you (more photos here).

Pic : Mridula

From Manali it takes 12 hours to reach Kaza (the headquarters) by bus. But one can hire a jeep, self-drive or go by the shared jeeps. The passes open sometime in June. But Kaza can be reached via Shimla and Sangla almost the year round.

Vijay, a blogger from Singapore prefers heritage and suggests an international destination.

My dream destination would be Angkor. While the famous temples of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Banteay Kdei, Banteay Srei, Kbal Spean inspire many visitors with their myriad sculptures and religious architecture,my fascination for Angkor stems from the interaction that this famous land had with South India – call it the lure of my home soil, but the ultimate proof of the influence is seen on the inscriptions along the Angkorian pillars.

We can see similar script in Rajasimha Pallava’s Atiranchanda Mandabam in Mahabalipuram . These stylistic Pallava Granta script bear witness to the spread of Indian influence inscriptions in Cambodia. Spread across such a great physical distance they have stood the test of time and bear tesimony to the greatness of the great land we hail from.

Pic : Vijay

Deepak, a blogger from Mumbai says beaches are beckoning him.

On the vast coastline of Maharashtra there lies this little gem – Dive Agar. It has become famous for its ‘Suvarna Ganesha’. On 17Nov97, Draupadi Dharma Patil, while digging in her betel nut farm, found a copper box which contained a Gold mask of Ganesha. As per law a ‘panchanama’ was carried out and the Gold Ganesha mask was taken over by the local governing council and placed in the existing Ganesha temple in the village for worship and display.For me it was the beach and the food that lured, to spend a delicious weekend unwinding the urban lifestyle stress.

Pic : Deepak

The beach is virginal, clean and beautiful and the sunset is awesome. Long walks on this lonely beach are the ultimate in nature bonding and solitude for me. And of course the gastronomic pleasures of seafood fuels it all! The proverbial cherry on the cake is the ‘Ukdiche Modak’ – the steamed dumpling stuffed with grated coconut and jaggery! A delicious slice of heaven – that’s what Dive Agar is for me.

Arun Bhat, photographer and blogger from Bangalore looks up to the Himalayas

Bulk of my travel wish list for 2009 falls within Uttarakhand. Valley of Flowers and Kuari Pass are places I have been intending to visit for long, and hope to be there in summer of 2009. While I am heading to these parts, it would be an ideal time to spend a few days meditating on the bank of the Ganga, in the quiet wooded environs of Rishikesh. Time permits, a short detour from Valley of Flowers would take me to Tunganath and Chopta, said to be most beautiful locations in the state, and a stop at Corbett National Park on my way back.

Pic : Arun Bhat

Gopal , another photographer and blogger from Bangalore loves his own city and says Bangalore for Bangaloreans.

The new age Bangalorean is a whining creature who, when he or she looks a little beyond the nose, can’t see beyond the bonnet of the car or the wheel of his or her bike. They crib about traffic and can take off to a hundred places around India and the Malay Peninsula every time there is a long weekend. What they don’t know that their city is a treasure trove of places to see. Cuisines to taste. Smells to discover. People to see. There’s a world in this well – Bangalore.

Pic : Gopal MS

Vamsee, a blogger from Mumbai loves a little fairy tale in Austria.

Of all the places we visited in 2008, if I had to pick one place that was the most beautiful of all, the one place that was so spectacular that it took my breath away at first sight, and the one place that makes me happy just by thinking about it, I have to pick Hallstatt. This tiny town in the lake district of Austria is a place you visit when you need a vacation from a vacation! At dawn, when the morning mist is just lifting from the snow peaked mountains and the golden rays of the sun hit the chalets in the village turning the still emerald green lake into a reflecting pool creating perfect mirror images of the beautiful scenery – you feel like you are in the most beautiful village in the whole world.

Pic : Vamsee

Hallstatt, is two hours by train from Salzburg and Linz. It was a rich and famous salt mining town in its hay days. If walking on the cobblestone streets admiring the lake and mountains and the ivy lined rustic cottages is not an attraction enough, then there are a number of activities to pass time. There are numerous hiking trails and one can also take excursions to the historic salt mine and the Dashstein ice caves.

Ravi Kumar, a blogger from Hyderabad refers to the ancient town of Kalinga.

This new year, if your feet starts itching and you are contemplating on places to explore, then I would recommend to have Bhubaneswar in your platter.Bhubaneswar, the capital city of Orissa, also called the Temple City, is an ideal destination to get in touch with ancient India. The city, which attracts tourists from all across the globe, has scores of exquisite ancient sandstone temples scattered across the city, the most popular being the Lingaraj, the city’s presiding deity.

Pic : Ravi Kumar

Bhubaneswar also is home to several Buddhist and Jain sites of historical importance. Dhauli Giri in the outskirts dons the Shanti Stupa. It was here that the great Kalinga war was fought by Ashoka the Great, after which he embraced Budhism. The caves of Khandigiri and Udaygiri throw up deep secrets of our rich Jain heritage. One of the most intriguing temples here is the hypaethral (roofless) Chausath Yogini temple.

Other interesting places around Bhubaneswar are Puri, Konark, Chilika lake, and Bhitarkanika national park.

Priyank , a blogger from Toronto who is currently touring his home country is nostalgic about Israel.

A year ago I visited Israel on a touristic itinerary and in 2009 I wish to go back to the holy land and dive into the local life there. Primarily I intend to spend few weeks working in a Kibbutz – a collective farming community unique to Israel and then soak the natural extremes of the Dead Sea and the Negev desert on a desert safari. Since I will be in that region, it would be wise to travel along the Nile valley in neighboring Egypt and end the year by watching the sun rise from the legendary Mount Sinai.”

Pic : Priyank

Arun Nair, our blog editor from Chennai says Binsar gives him a high.

If you like the hills, a breath of fresh cool air, a view of the Himalayas in all its glory and without the crowd, head for Binsar.

For those who love wildlife, Binsar is rich in flora and fauna, and is native to many exotic breeds of birds and vegetation. Binsar also houses a wildlife sanctuary, at the peak (popularly referred to as the zero point) of which you get to see a magnificent, panoramic view of the Himalayas.

I did a trip to Binsar as part of the entourage that included bloggers, writers and photographers who had a common interest – traveling, and I must say, I yearn to go back again!

Pic : Arun Nair

As for me, a travel writer and blogger from Bangalore, I would like to float in Poovar.

A blue sky, an island, a sandy beach, a river ,an estuary , a stretch of coconut trees, a lone boat and the blue-green backwaters . And of course, birds, fish , the boatman and us . I am lost somewhere near the tip of South India, tucked in Gods own country , Kerala .

I was there for a few hours only and all that we could see was just the azure waters and the blue sky . The coconut trees stretched out, kissing the waters and we saw two horizons ..one separating the sky from the sea, the other – a sandy beach separating the sea from the backwaters . I looked at the vast expanse of waters called sea, river, backwaters , estuary and wondered if there was anything so simple and yet so beautiful in life ! I would love to come back here and float in the backwaters..who would’nt ?

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath