Before the days of motor ways crisscrossing the mountainous landscapes of Himalaya, people relied on their strong feet and travelled long distances by walking. Pilgrims made journeys lasting many months to visit the holy places where the mighty river Ganga originated. Things are much different today, as people buzz from place to place in buses and jeeps.

In his book ‘Sacred Waters’, Stephen Alters tries to get closer to land and nature, taking the Himalayas by feet, travelling to the four holy origins of the Ganga – the char dham.

Alter leaves behind his watch at home deliberately as he sets on the journey and allows the route to unfold at its own pace. He finds his way with the help of villagers as he moves, trying to avoid noisy motor roads and searching for the old abandoned pilgrim trails. With his progress, he describes people, landscapes and culture that unfolds in front of him, always staying close to nature and observing changes created by the modern world.

His description often brings forth the sanctity of nature as he describes the unpeopled forests of Garhwal region, its flora and fauna, hilly landscapes, rivers and lakes. The naturalist in Alter unfolds as he takes the reader along describing his walks along the forests of Moru Oak trees or sightings of verditer flycatchers and barking deers.

Author’s quest in the book is as much spiritual as it is about the contemporary life in Garhwal. Besides writing about his spiritual experiences and moments of blissful feelings in the journey, Alter ensures that he talks about every aspect of the region in the book. Along with Garhwal’s nature and environment, he digs on the history and mythology of each temple he visits, sees cultural and social changes that are brought about by motor roads and attitude of people to change. His description of destruction of the mountains in Tehri for construction of the mighty Tehri dam is touching and depressing, and his talks with activist Sundarlal Bahuguna in Tehri town, informative.

‘Sacred Waters’ is an excellent introduction to the Garhwal region of Indian Himalayas, and his narration is intense and comes from the heart. The book is a good read for audience interested in any aspect of the region, be it culture, journeys, history or environment.