Poovar – somewhere between two horizons

Poovar – somewhere between two horizons

Imagine this . A blue sky, a sandy beach, a river and an estuary , a lost island, a stretch of coconut trees, a lone boat and the blue-green backwaters with plenty of birds and fish. As for people, there is just the boatman and us . This is Poovar for you, lost somewhere near the tip of South India, tucked in Gods own country , Kerala .

It was a lazy Saturday morning and we were in Tiruvanthapuram or Trivandrum staring endlessly at the beaches in Kovalam . Unlike most capital cities, this quiet nonchalant town-city has a certain charm that makes you linger and lose youself . .My reverie was interrupted as voices emerged from the sea . A long line of fishermen immediately queued up and tugged at a thick neverending rope , pulling their booty from the sea.

We were in Kovalam at the beach , sipping a tender coconut when the vendor asked us if we had been to Poovar . I recollected travel packages promoting Poovar , images of floating cottages and a couple of resorts vying for attention . We were not the typical beach bums , so we were willing to tear ourselves away from the sunny shores and look for newer shores. We went driving , in search of a coastal hamlet called Poovar along the River Neyyar . The drive is not just beautiful, but it takes you into the heart of rustic India. A little bustle here and there, a few shops convert a sleepy village into a market. The smell of the fish was everywhere – we took a detour and came to a jetty which only allowed tourists who were staying in the resorts ..We managed to talk the boatman into taking us for a little ride on the backwaters . And we discovered not just an idyllic island, but an interesting chunk of history as well.

We learnt that Poovar was a trading center of timber, sandlewood, ivory and spices. It is believed that the trading ships of King Solomon landed in a port called ‘Ophir’, which is probably today’s Poovar.’ As we waltzed down the backwaters, our boatman regaled us with this story . I was quite surprised to read that Poovar had a royal connection as well and it owed its name to a king . It was in this tiny hamlet , then a rich trading centre, that Raja Marthanda Varma , the legendary 18th century king of Travancore had sought refuge . The story goes that Ettuveetil Pillamar, had proclaimed Marthanda Varma as his successor and the former’s sons declared war.

The Maharaja had to flee from his land and he landed in Poovar with the help of one Moosa Marikar, a merchant who also helped him regain power . The Raja was fascinated by the sight of red flowers, chipped out from the Kovala trees growing along the Neyyar river , which floated in the river as a red carpet on water. The legend is that the stream was named as “POOVAR”( meaning a stream of flowers) ,as the Raja described the river .

There were a few boats dotting the landscape ..but besides that, all we could see was just the azure waters and the blue sky . The coconut trees stretched out, kissing the waters here and there, as we sailed ..Until we saw two horizons ..one separating the sky from the sea, the other – a sandy beach separating the sea from the backwaters . The estuary here connects to the sea during high tides . I looked at the vast expanse of waters called sea, river, backwaters , estuary and wondered if there was anything so simple and yet so beautiful in life ! This is probably what they call happiness !

If you would like to experience a bit of this bliss, do spend a few days at the Poovar Island Resort from Club Mahindra’s bouquet of resorts .  The floating cottages will just lull your senses transporting you into a world of your own

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The other side of Goa

The other side of Goa

After visiting the most popular sights in Goa-  exploring Fort Aguada, strolling along the Anjuna Beach & the flea markets, going on a Dolphin cruise, and exploring Colva beach where I managed to let go of my fears and go para sailing, I was now eager to explore the other side to Goa- The Old Goa as it is called. Also known as Goa Velha ["Velha" in Portugese means Old], it is located on the banks of the River Mandovi  about 9 Kms Panaji, Goa’s Capital.

Anjuna beach

Riding the bus to Panaji, I chatted up with the lady sitting beside me asking her if she knew anything about this part of Goa. She went on to tell me that the town was once a major Portuguese stronghold and before that was the capital of Bijaipur Kingdom as well. But apparently, most of the forts, weaponry, and traces of the era gone by have gone missing with time. Even though there has been a decline in heritage over centuries, the town is well maintained, inspite of the large influx of visitors year round. “You should explore the churches and temples there” she said before going on her way.

I got off in Panaji where the tour guide reccomended by a friend waited. He took over from where the lady had left off to shed more light on the history behind Old Goa. “The town was earlier surrounded by a fortified wall with barracks, a hospital and the prison. Europeans who ruled the region have left behind quite an impression apart from architectural marvels. I will show you some of the famous churches in this region for you to understand better.”

 

Along the Mandovi River

Within minutes we were on a road flanked on either side by a Grand church. “On your right is the Basilica of Bom Jesus and across the road is the Se Cathedral. Why dont you go explore the Bom Jesus Basilica first?” he said before wandering off to chat with some friends.

Basilica of Bom Jesus is a Church marked as a World Heritage Site standing tall but without a towering cross on top. Apparently in its place was a Hindu temple which the portugese demolished to erect the church on.. And the cross they installed kept falling off due to natural calamities, till finally they realised something bigger was in power there and so the church stands tall without a Cross.

Basilica of Bom Jesus

The interiors are overwhelming, huge ceilings, beautiful art work.. its absolutely breathtaking. The church houses two chapels, a main altar, a sacristy and a belfry at the back. Apart from these, the church also has a rich collection of paintings related to various instances from the life of St. Francis Xavier.Altars dedicated to St. Michael and to Our Lady of Hope are also present .

The church houses the sacred relics of St. Francis Xavier, patron saint of Goa. St Francis Xavier is also known as “Goencho Saib” meaning “Lord of Goa”. The saint died while on a sea voyage to China on December 2,1552. In accordance with his wishes , his remains were transferred to Goa the following year. Before I knew it, nearly an hour had passed. Making my way out onto the street to explore the Se Cathedral I noticed the guide lost in conversation.

Se Cathedral 

Inside Se Cathedral

The largest church in Old Goa, Se Cathedral is dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria. This Renaissance cathedral was designed in the 16th century and took nearly 80 years to complete. I noticed there was only one  bell tower, apparently the other collapsed way back in 1776 when it was struck by lightening  The interiors are filled with intricate detailing, the focal point is the 249 feet long central nave and a gilded high altar dedicated to St. Catherine.As you walk around , you will see the 15 additional altars inside the cathedral. What a beautiful building that was. I could have spent all day there, but I was thirsty for more…

I quickly made an exit towards our vehicle only to find the guide waiting there for me. “Shall we go? I have few more surprises to show you”, he chirped! I wondered what could be more magical than these structures I had just visited…

Goa with its long stretches of beaches, blue ocean, and the plethora of activities has enough to keep visitors engaged for more than a few days. Stay at the Club Mahindra’s property in Varca Beach, wake up to the sound of the ocean, and soak in the sun and sand, the ideal way to unwind and have a blast! Wish to see, check this:

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On the backwaters of Kerala

On the backwaters of Kerala

I’m reminiscing about the time  I spent traversing the famous backwaters of Kerala and discovering the ways of southern India. Through my rusty memory, I remember the tranquility of the waters, the countless coconut trees along the coast, and a beautiful evening sky.

Photo Credit:McKay Savage/Creative Commons

It’s hard to describe how a mountain child like me can be so fascinated by a water-logged channel in the backyard of Cochin. Think: a vast expanse of greenish-blue water, where the only ripples are those created by fish and ducks, and by the house boat on the deck of which you’re royally seated, greeted every now and then by a salty breeze. The palms occasionally give way to little coastal villages, one of which we stop at to watch elderly women weave ropes in their primitive ways.

 

Photo Credit: Christian haugen/Creative Commons

The landscape barely changes for hours, and yet my eyes remain fixated on the water and the horizon beyond. An aura of serenity establishes itself on the boat; no chatter, no movement, just a silent rowing to no destination.

As the sun spots dissolve on the deck, I watch the sun tease the sky with its colors, before rapidly sinking into the horizon. I have seen mountain sunsets, but watching the sun sink low enough to prove that the earth is round, is something else.

Photo Credit: Mikko Koponen/Creative Commons

At the first sign of darkness, stars fill the sky with their twinkling selves, and home-bound fishermen fill the backwaters with little boats and kayaks. Four years on, I can still reconstruct my memory of their darkened faces, their bright smiles, and their enthusiastic waves to us – travelers curiously discovering their  waters.

The backwaters of Kerala never seizes to amaze us, but there is more to Kerala than these endless waterways. When visiting Kerala, you should enjoy the beautiful  sights and sounds by staying at one of Club Mahindra’s properties across Munnar,  Ashtamudi, Poovar or Thekkady.

For example, have a view of the beautiful Club Mahindra Backwater Retreat – Ashtamudi, Kerala:

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A glimpse of Tibet in Coorg

A glimpse of Tibet in Coorg

If you are visiting Coorg then do not forget to keep at least half day for a visit to Bylakuppe. It is a Tibetan settlement about 40kms away where the Indian government had leased 3,000 acres of land to the fleeing Tibetans in 1961. It consists of two Tibetan refugee settlements that were setup in 1961 and 1969 respectively and has now grown into a full-fledged town housing the largest Tibetan population outside of Dharamsala in India.

It is the largest Tibetan community in exile with about 40,000 people in five settlements containing monasteries, kindergarten to higher level secondary schools, health care clinics, a hospital and a traditional Tibetan medical facility. The ‘Lugsum Samdupling’ settlement established in 1961 has grown to a veritable township with monasteries, nunneries and cafes and stalls that showcase the Tibetan way of life.

As you near the settlement you will find monks in robes zipping past on two wheelers. Makes one wonder – what’s the hurry for the monks? Ah well, the monks here are well rooted in tradition and well connected with all modern technology too. You will see monks chatting away on a mobile phone in one hand and rolling beads on his rosary in another!

The most visited temple here is Namdroling (The Golden Temple) and the signage is loud and clear. And of course you can spot it from afar. Three beautiful larger than life gold plated statues look down at visitors above the altar. Buddha around 60 feet tall holds prominent place, flanked by Guru Padmasambhava and Amitayush (each around 58 feet tall). The walls are adorned with colourful paintings depicting gods and demons from Tibetan Buddhist mythology. The entrance has a curtain of beads which is the favourite of kids who love going in and out.

The monastery attached to this temple is considered to be one of the best places for higher learning. This monastery dedicated to the teachings of Palyul Lineage of the Nyingma School of Tibetan Buddhism was established by His Holiness Pema Norbu Rinpoche shortly after he came to India from Tibet. A long, leisurely visit to the Namdroling monastery would take up almost half a day. If you are lucky you will witness a prayer chanting session in one of the temples and it is a ‘must experience’. Rows of monks will sit and start chanting from their books and a couple of them will blow wind instruments while there will be another who will play the cymbals. All this will be accompanied by the rhythmic beat of the drums.

The exterior of the new Zangdokpalri temple looks majestic with a majestic rainbow arch. We are so used to being told not to photograph the idols in temples, that the ready willingness of the monks to let the idols in their temples being photographed is such a pleasant and welcome surprise. Most of the monks when approached are very friendly and ready to talk and answer all your question about their life there or Buddhism. It is almost like visiting a foreign country in your own!

There is a large parking area near the Golden Temple. A shopping arcade next to it houses many curios shops and restaurants.

Getting there: Bylakuppe is situated on the state highway 88. The nearest town for Bylakuppe is Kushal Nagar. Auto-rickshaw is the best mode for a trip to the Golden Temple from Kushalnagar. There are frequent buses shuttling between Mysore and Madikeri and you can get down at Kushalnagar.

Club Mahindra has a beautiful resort in Coorg and Bylakuppe is not too far away from our property.  Enjoy your visit to the coffee country with us and  plan a visit to Bylakuppe at your leisure.
Watch this video to experience the destination more.

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Blending of cultures in Pondicherry

Blending of cultures in Pondicherry

There’s something about sleepy Puducherry or Pondicherry that draws me to it over and over again! For most people one visit is enough to look around and soak in the atmosphere of this laidback former French colony. For me, every visit only makes my heart grow fonder. The beauty of Pondicherry lies in the way it straddles two very distinct cultures with complete ease. Be prepared to hear native Tamilians converse in fluent French as you walk down the streets. Ask their names and expect to be even more surprised because names like Brutus Vivek are not uncommon in this part of the country.

It never ceases to amaze me how French and Tamilian cultures have come together and coexisted so beautifully. The Sri Aurobindo ashram is probably the most visited piece of real estate in the city. Years go by, but the ashram remains the same – a place of universal acceptance and abundant peace. A few minutes spent there will soothe your nerves. Walk across to the Manakula Vinayagar Koil to visit the temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha or just go there to see Lakshmi – the temple elephant. Lakshmi is always surrounded by locals and tourists some seeking her blessings, and some just enjoying watching her antics.

Both the temple and ashram are located in the French quarter of Pondicherry – the part of town that still has magnificent French style villas and where street names begin with “Rue” meaning street or road in French. Magnificent doorways peeping out from under a curtain of bougainvillea in full bloom welcome you instead of a regular metal gate. With imposing walls and long windows with grills, it’s practically impossible to take a peek inside, making these houses and their residents even more fascinating. You can walk around and take as many photos as you like, as the inhabitants of these villas take no offence. In fact, across the city, you are most likely to be greeted by smiling faces and people who will stop by to chat or help.

No one is in a hurry in Pondicherry. Rest is not frowned upon and afternoon siestas are a norm. As evening sets in, the seaside promenade comes alive. Crowded and full of vendors trying hard to make a sale, I prefer a walk by the sea in the mornings when it is calmer. French cuisine is well known the world over, but again considering its Pondicherry we are in, even French cuisine has been strongly influenced by the local culture. Known as Franco-Tamilian cuisine, you can sample this at the many cafes and restaurants located in the French quarter. Seafood lovers are in for a special treat. Different people visit Pondicherry for different reasons. Whatever it is that draws you to the city, you will definitely leave a calmer and rejuvenated person. There’s something in the air. While it’s hard to describe what this magical thing is, it’s a total pleasure to experience!

Club Mahindra has a beautiful resort- the Club Mahindra Big Beach Resort in Pondicherry. Make sure to experience the property when you plan your trip to Pondicherry.

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Things to do in Udaipur

Things to do in Udaipur

Udaipur is the lake city of Rajasthan.  Most of the state might be a desert, but Udaipur, with its five huge interconnected lakes is blessed with not just a perennial water supply, but the lakes also keep the city and its environment cool, even in the sweltering heat of summer! The city draws not just crowds of tourists coming from across the world for a glimpse of its magnificent palaces, but also droves of migratory birds drawn by the lakes! The city is thus an interesting blend of history and nature, well worth a leisurely visit. While there is much to see and do in Udaipur, here are some things you should not miss –

   1. Take a leisurely walk around the Fateh Sagar Lake….

Visit the garden amidst the lake and watch the sun set over the water… as well as birds returning home.  In winter, the garden hosts numerous migratory birds, but even in peak summer, we saw scores of birds, especially lapwings, nesting.

While there, also pay a visit to the museum dedicated to Maharana Pratap. While the museum is mostly about the battle of Haldighati, what we especially enjoyed were the miniature models of the Kumbhalgarh and Chittorgarh forts!

2. Visit the city palace and museum and take one of the complete tour packages… and spend the entire day amidst relics of a bygone era….. the palace is well preserved and provides a glimpse into the life of the royal family in days gone by….

While there, don’t miss the crystal gallery! Can you imagine sofas and beds all made out of crystals? No? Just visit the crystal gallery…. Also included in the complete package

Go for a boat ride on Lake Picchola to wrap up the experience!

3. Ride the cable car to the Karni Mata Temple… Not spiritually inclined? Doenst matter! The view is worth the ride!!

4.      Visit the Sajjangad Fort

Located within the wildlife sanctuary, the fort is the only monument in  the area not maintained by the royal family, but by the ASI. Don’t expect the richness and the opulence visible at the other palaces , but this fort is still worth a visit, for its enviable rain water harvesting system designed over 500 years ago! Talk to one of the guides and they may just take you on a bike ride into the forest, and show you the towers built for the hunting kings and small palaces built for queens to watch the hunting!

5. Wind up your day with the Sound and Light show at the City palace.  Conducted in English during the peak season and Hindi during off-season, the story of the Mewar Rajputs is recited in a captivating manner. Listening to the stories of the kings, queens and their struggles, it is impossible not to get involved. There was not a dry eye at the end! And the palace looks magnificent, all lit up!

Rediscover , relax and rejuvenate yourself in Club Mahindra’s  Kumbalgargh property in Rajasthan

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A spiritual quest into Coorg

A spiritual quest into Coorg

Our journey into Coorg’s heritage takes us on a spiritual quest – atop mountains, inside forests and coffee estates and by the river side.  These are temples etched in the cultural landscape of the Kodavas, although some of them will never find mention in any religious texts.

It is misty as we climb a small hilltop to the Padi Iguthuppa temple in Kakkabe. The bells start ringing the moment we enter the temple , as a gentle breeze blows from the rolling hills around. A group of Kodava women enter and speak with the priest Kush Bhat who welcomes us and insists that we stay over for lunch. “ No one comes to the Iguthuppa temple and goes away without eating lunch ,” he says. He explains that Iguthappa means giver of food and the deity is a form of Subramanya or Muruga, son of Shiva

coorg 060

“Close your eyes and ask Iguthappa whatever you want ..If you have faith, you will get the same,” says Kush Bhatt adding that centuries ago, Shiva and Subramanya came here and loved the hills so much that they decided to settle down here . The temple is known to feed anyone who comes here and all pilgrims offer food, not money to the deity . “Iguthappa told the people of Coorg that you will never go hungry as long as Im here and if you accept me as your God, ” explains Kush Bhatt. Some call him a saint, some say he is one of the four brothers who settled in the hills around the area. But despite the legends, every festival of the Kodavas starts with the invocation of Iguthappa and the  most important festival of the temple is Tulabharam .

coorg 071

We go to the another Iguthappa temple in Naljee, inside a forest through a lush coffee plantation . There is not a soul around and it is peaceful just listening to the sounds of the forest. These monuments are probably lost to the average tourist , but as a traveler, I realize that one finds sanctity in the silence around them

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Club Mahindra has a wonderful resort in Coorg and make sure you get an experience of mystical Coorg when you visit them next

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Moments in Corbett – a photofeature

Moments in Corbett – a photofeature

I was on a blogger’s trip to Corbett invited by Club Mahindra and here is a visual articulation of my experience there .

Sunrise -Corbett

Sunrise at Corbett : Early morning light filtering through a forest canopy always makes for a good picture.

corbett waterfalls

Corbett Falls : A pretty waterfall aptly named after the legendary Jim Corbett.

Corbett_

Corbett : A mosaic of a landscape that makes Corbett a rich repository of wildlife

nainital

Nainital (enroute) : As you go up from Ramnagar towards Nainital, the landscape changes dramatically and is very picturesque.

eurasian hobby

Eurasian Hobby : Sitting high on a branch, the Hobby was patiently waiting and keeping a watch on the ground below.

grey wagtail

Grey Wagtail : This pretty bird was a wonderful sight as it went about prancing in the shallow waters around the pebbles looking for insects.

indian robin

Indian Robin : The male robin is easily identified by its dark body, reddish vent and characteristic upward flick of the tail.

Plumheadedparakeet

Plumheaded Parakeet : The female parakeet has a grey head unlike the male of its species

Quaker_

Quaker : This dainty little butterfly was seen on the banks of the Kosi.

Rhesus Macaque_

Rhesus Macaque : The Rhesus Macaque is a primate found in the northern parts of India. This individual was foraging the garbage around with its troop.

Riverlapwing

River Lapwing : This handsome bird is a close relative of the more widespread Red-wattled Lapwing.

Robberflydragonfly

Robberfly-dragonfly : This was the catch of the trip. The robberfly and the dragonfly are both predators in their own right. However, on this occasion, the dragonfly fell prey to the robberfly.

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Mcleodganj: How deep is the red?

Mcleodganj: How deep is the red?

Mcleodganj is perhaps every backpacker’s rite of passage to India. Except that it is so unlike India, I feel I’ve skipped a few legalities, missed a few stamps on my passport, and entered a world I was taught is forbidden.

SANY0007

I see a foreign face around every corner, interspersed with men and women robed in red & orange, lending a tranquil vibe to the chaos on the narrow streets. I’m fascinated by the small stalls & shops selling colorful bric-a-brac; little memorabilia from Tibet that has been reproduced elsewhere in India or Nepal.

SANY0027

The sidewalls are covered with graffiti about Tibet, a reminder of the refugee lives of the people in Dharamsala. This has to be the only hill station in India where no shop-owners are shouting to sell their goods, nor touting foreign travelers; I can feel a spirit of acceptance among the people, or maybe a disguised form of dejection.

SANY0015

I wonder if in 1959, when His Holiness the Dalai Lama found shelter in Dharamsala from China’s occupation of Tibet, anyone would’ve thought that Tibet will sustain its magnanimous culture and continue the much-needed propagation of the teachings of Tibetan Buddhism. I’m given to hear that Mcleodganj is much more akin to Tibet than present day Tibet itself, a thought that makes me proud of India for physically & financially supporting a culture that could’ve been long dead.

SANY0032

I allow myself to be distracted, first by the typically Tibetan handicrafts, and then by the alternate cafe culture that has housed itself in Mcleodganj. There are rooftop gardens, Italian joints, organic food cafes, and of course, authentic Tibetan food dhabas. I am amused to see the cafes being frequented by monks & nuns, but gradually become so accustomed to their presence that everywhere I go, my eyes subconsciously search for the deep red colors.

In my head, I had formed a strong association with Dharamsala while in Spiti; everyone I met in the mountain desert had some roots in this relatively lower-lying valley. The spiritual similarities now surface themselves, though the mountains that were bare brown in the Spitian background have now been painted a lush green. I stroll behind some lamas, past blue tents selling knick-knacks that remind me of the Tibetan market in Mussoorie, and resist an elderly lady scooping fresh momos from her high stool just outside the monastery.

SANY0034

In the alley that leads to both the monastery and HH Dalai Lama’s house, the first signs of security surprise me. I miss the innate trust of the people of Spiti, but things are different here in Dharamsala for good reason. I expect a solemn ambience at the monastery at this late-evening hour, but a buoyant atmosphere greets me; it’s debating hour and the monks are animatedly clapping & talking in what sounds like the Bodhi language. I can’t help but smile at the prevailing cheerfulness.

The monastery is beautiful, open and airy, as most monasteries I’ve visited before. I seat myself on a bench in the verandah, and watch the clouds play hide & seek with the Himalayas, as they gradually descend to greet us mortals and reveal to us a gorgeous sunset. No power, I assure myself, can rob the people of such natural beauty, and the conviction that comes with it.

Club Mahindra has a resort at the foothills of the Dhauladhar range, 5 km from Dharamsala city on the Palampur road. It offers an exclusive opportunity to learn the Tibetan arts & crafts. Here is the view of the river that flows by the resort.

dharamshala riverflow - near resort


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Reflections in Goa

Reflections in Goa

I just got back from a short trip to Goa. This was not my first and it probably won’t be my last either. But this was a trip after several years; my last had been towards the end of 1975.

Despite Goa being touted as a destination of choice that draws German charter flights like a Goan to his feni, the airport in Goa remains rather unassuming with no aerobridges or tunnels. You have a choice of prepaid taxis to take you to your destination, ours being Panjim. The buses are sparsely crowded with folks who are going about their work with baskets and since we do a lot of “push-push-shove-shove-squeeze-through-to-the-exit” in Mumbai, we decide to treat ourselves to a taxi and pretend we are on a five star vacation.

pinky

Goa to me was a bunch of cities interspersed in a wealth of small villages dotted with greenery. The big difference this time was there are no well defined village boundaries any more. Some of the older Mangalore-tiled houses with intricate trellises and bowers of greenery, leaning over imposing entrances have given way to cement-concrete monstrosities. Some unavoidable industrial areas have come up, but they still try and blend in with the surroundings, moderating their external display. Goa is still lush with mangroves, trees, and several mango, cashew and coconut trees crown it. You notice “houses nestled amongst trees” as opposed to trees decorating the house.

decowell

There are several watchdog organisations today that ensure that newly planted trees exceed trees brought down during any construction activity. One is delighted to see inland waterways, and mangroves. While driving inland in the hills, pineapples bought from locals certainly tasted much sweeter. Old women hawkers on the streets and markets of Panjim sell raw cashews and Goa’s local mangoes.

Earlier, as you entered the main village area, you would see a large football field, a church and temple, where you read announcements of impending matches with a visiting village team from elsewhere; folks landed up to cheer their team, to be followed by a goodwill feni session, and a hearty meal.

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Roads in Goa are wonderful with most being two lane highways. I don’t recall seeing a single speed limit sign during my entire stay. Everyone drives as fast as they want, our taxi driver did an hour drive in 35 minutes flat without a single pothole jostle.

lighthousejail

Goan tourism tries to do a commendable job running various tours. One cannot help but smile, when on explaining the importance of Aguada fort, where there is a jail, the tour guide proudly mentions that two very prominent criminals managed to escape from there. There is even a bust of one of the criminals, in the fancy restaurant where he was finally arrested.

The old quarter of Panjim, now treated as a heritage area has these amazing “gulleys”, (small pathways), where houses with intricate carvings and trellises, and a blue delft like plate fitted into the wall outside announces the name of the owners. Dark blue and brick red appear to be the favourite colours of buildings along with white. These areas are dotted with homely restaurants serving typical Goan food, and many are rather highly recommended.

gmantralaya

We were treated to a lunch in one of these by our Goan friend towards the end of our trip. Fish Curry and rice being the staple, this place excels in serving various varieties of fish. The non vegetarians amongst us ate with single minded devotion to the plate in front oblivious to everything.

panjimriverfront

And then there is the Ferry. Despite the Panjim Mandovi river bridge spanning across Panjim and Betim, most people still like to travel across the river by Ferry. And so you see tons of two wheelers emerging, as if from the river, when the Ferry docks at Panjim or Betim. The heady combination of sea, fish and diesel fumes offers the right incentive for a chilled beer or a feni, wherever you plan to go next.

On our last day in Panjim we were looking for a place that sells a typical Goan sweet. Our Goan friend served this to us over tea at her riverfront living room in Betim. A deadly combination of gram flour (channa flour), coconut, and local jaggery (probably toddy based) this melt-in-your-mouth stuff has not been given the publicity it deserves.

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And finally as we head  back to the airport, it is time to relax, take a nap and release the tensions.

Rediscover , relax and rejuvenate yourself in Club Mahindra’s  Goa property in Varca Beach

Goa - pool

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Book Review

Just Look up – a book review

Sometimes the most beautiful things are right around us . You dont have to travel far and wide to look for them . All we need to do is to ” Just Look Up .”  I am referring to the green canopy of trees that line our cityscape , painting our lives with colours, if [...]


 Read the complete review

Featured Contributor

Anuradha Shankar
Anuradha Shankar
A mother, traveller, freelance writer, compulsive bookworm.. not necessarily in that order. She lives in Mumbai and aims to travel as much as she can across the country. Her blog 'A Wandering Mind' is primarily a travel blog, but true to its name it wanders all the time - from events to random thoughts, book reviews to her son's latest peccadilloes!
Read her post 'Things to do in Udaipur'
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