If you are visiting Coorg then do not forget to keep at least half day for a visit to Bylakuppe. It is a Tibetan settlement about 40kms away where the Indian government had leased 3,000 acres of land to the fleeing Tibetans in 1961. It consists of two Tibetan refugee settlements that were setup in 1961 and 1969 respectively and has now grown into a full-fledged town housing the largest Tibetan population outside of Dharamsala in India.

It is the largest Tibetan community in exile with about 40,000 people in five settlements containing monasteries, kindergarten to higher level secondary schools, health care clinics, a hospital and a traditional Tibetan medical facility. The ‘Lugsum Samdupling’ settlement established in 1961 has grown to a veritable township with monasteries, nunneries and cafes and stalls that showcase the Tibetan way of life.

As you near the settlement you will find monks in robes zipping past on two wheelers. Makes one wonder – what’s the hurry for the monks? Ah well, the monks here are well rooted in tradition and well connected with all modern technology too. You will see monks chatting away on a mobile phone in one hand and rolling beads on his rosary in another!

The most visited temple here is Namdroling (The Golden Temple) and the signage is loud and clear. And of course you can spot it from afar. Three beautiful larger than life gold plated statues look down at visitors above the altar. Buddha around 60 feet tall holds prominent place, flanked by Guru Padmasambhava and Amitayush (each around 58 feet tall). The walls are adorned with colourful paintings depicting gods and demons from Tibetan Buddhist mythology. The entrance has a curtain of beads which is the favourite of kids who love going in and out.

The monastery attached to this temple is considered to be one of the best places for higher learning. This monastery dedicated to the teachings of Palyul Lineage of the Nyingma School of Tibetan Buddhism was established by His Holiness Pema Norbu Rinpoche shortly after he came to India from Tibet. A long, leisurely visit to the Namdroling monastery would take up almost half a day. If you are lucky you will witness a prayer chanting session in one of the temples and it is a ‘must experience’. Rows of monks will sit and start chanting from their books and a couple of them will blow wind instruments while there will be another who will play the cymbals. All this will be accompanied by the rhythmic beat of the drums.

The exterior of the new Zangdokpalri temple looks majestic with a majestic rainbow arch. We are so used to being told not to photograph the idols in temples, that the ready willingness of the monks to let the idols in their temples being photographed is such a pleasant and welcome surprise. Most of the monks when approached are very friendly and ready to talk and answer all your question about their life there or Buddhism. It is almost like visiting a foreign country in your own!

There is a large parking area near the Golden Temple. A shopping arcade next to it houses many curios shops and restaurants.

Getting there: Bylakuppe is situated on the state highway 88. The nearest town for Bylakuppe is Kushal Nagar. Auto-rickshaw is the best mode for a trip to the Golden Temple from Kushalnagar. There are frequent buses shuttling between Mysore and Madikeri and you can get down at Kushalnagar.

Club Mahindra has a beautiful resort in Coorg and Bylakuppe is not too far away from our property.  Enjoy your visit to the coffee country with us and  plan a visit to Bylakuppe at your leisure.
Watch this video to experience the destination more.

There’s something about sleepy Puducherry or Pondicherry that draws me to it over and over again! For most people one visit is enough to look around and soak in the atmosphere of this laidback former French colony. For me, every visit only makes my heart grow fonder. The beauty of Pondicherry lies in the way it straddles two very distinct cultures with complete ease. Be prepared to hear native Tamilians converse in fluent French as you walk down the streets. Ask their names and expect to be even more surprised because names like Brutus Vivek are not uncommon in this part of the country.

It never ceases to amaze me how French and Tamilian cultures have come together and coexisted so beautifully. The Sri Aurobindo ashram is probably the most visited piece of real estate in the city. Years go by, but the ashram remains the same – a place of universal acceptance and abundant peace. A few minutes spent there will soothe your nerves. Walk across to the Manakula Vinayagar Koil to visit the temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha or just go there to see Lakshmi – the temple elephant. Lakshmi is always surrounded by locals and tourists some seeking her blessings, and some just enjoying watching her antics.

Both the temple and ashram are located in the French quarter of Pondicherry – the part of town that still has magnificent French style villas and where street names begin with “Rue” meaning street or road in French. Magnificent doorways peeping out from under a curtain of bougainvillea in full bloom welcome you instead of a regular metal gate. With imposing walls and long windows with grills, it’s practically impossible to take a peek inside, making these houses and their residents even more fascinating. You can walk around and take as many photos as you like, as the inhabitants of these villas take no offence. In fact, across the city, you are most likely to be greeted by smiling faces and people who will stop by to chat or help.

No one is in a hurry in Pondicherry. Rest is not frowned upon and afternoon siestas are a norm. As evening sets in, the seaside promenade comes alive. Crowded and full of vendors trying hard to make a sale, I prefer a walk by the sea in the mornings when it is calmer. French cuisine is well known the world over, but again considering its Pondicherry we are in, even French cuisine has been strongly influenced by the local culture. Known as Franco-Tamilian cuisine, you can sample this at the many cafes and restaurants located in the French quarter. Seafood lovers are in for a special treat. Different people visit Pondicherry for different reasons. Whatever it is that draws you to the city, you will definitely leave a calmer and rejuvenated person. There’s something in the air. While it’s hard to describe what this magical thing is, it’s a total pleasure to experience!

Club Mahindra has a beautiful resort- the Club Mahindra Big Beach Resort in Pondicherry. Make sure to experience the property when you plan your trip to Pondicherry.

Our journey into Coorg’s heritage takes us on a spiritual quest – atop mountains, inside forests and coffee estates and by the river side.  These are temples etched in the cultural landscape of the Kodavas, although some of them will never find mention in any religious texts.

It is misty as we climb a small hilltop to the Padi Iguthuppa temple in Kakkabe. The bells start ringing the moment we enter the temple , as a gentle breeze blows from the rolling hills around. A group of Kodava women enter and speak with the priest Kush Bhat who welcomes us and insists that we stay over for lunch. “ No one comes to the Iguthuppa temple and goes away without eating lunch ,” he says. He explains that Iguthappa means giver of food and the deity is a form of Subramanya or Muruga, son of Shiva

“Close your eyes and ask Iguthappa whatever you want ..If you have faith, you will get the same,” says Kush Bhatt adding that centuries ago, Shiva and Subramanya came here and loved the hills so much that they decided to settle down here . The temple is known to feed anyone who comes here and all pilgrims offer food, not money to the deity . “Iguthappa told the people of Coorg that you will never go hungry as long as Im here and if you accept me as your God, ” explains Kush Bhatt. Some call him a saint, some say he is one of the four brothers who settled in the hills around the area. But despite the legends, every festival of the Kodavas starts with the invocation of Iguthappa and the  most important festival of the temple is Tulabharam .

We go to the another Iguthappa temple in Naljee, inside a forest through a lush coffee plantation . There is not a soul around and it is peaceful just listening to the sounds of the forest. These monuments are probably lost to the average tourist , but as a traveler, I realize that one finds sanctity in the silence around them

Club Mahindra has a wonderful resort in Coorg and make sure you get an experience of mystical Coorg when you visit them next

We were on our way to Jodhpur from Udaipur and an important halt on the way had to be Kumbalgarh as were told that it was a ‘not to miss’ fort. We were not disappointed. The roads all the way were wonderful and despite visiting Eklinji and Nathdwar on the way we reached Kumbalgarh by 1pm. On the way we passed the impressive Club Mahindra Kumbalgarh Resort.

Though the sun was beating down mercilessly the first sight of the fort was enough to drive away any tiredness. Having parked in the official parking lot and buying the entrance tickets we set out to explore this much talked about fort.

We were accosted by ‘guides’ at the gate but we decided doing the fort on our own. There is a map at the entrance which one can use to decide what one wants to see. There is also a plaque there which told us that this fort was built by Rana Kumbha of Mewar in the 15^th century. It was built on a 3,500feet high hill overlooking the approaches from Ajmer and Marwar and was considered impregnable. The fort remained impregnable to direct assault, and fell only once, due to a shortage of drinking water, to the combined forces of Mughal Emperor Akbar, Raja Man Singh of Amber, Raja Udai Singh of Marwar, and the Sultan of Gujarat.

Another interesting fact was that, of the 84 fortresses defending Mewar, 32 were designed and built by Rana Kumbha. Of these, Kumbhalgarh, with its 36-kilometer long wall and soaring towers is the most impressive. This wall is supposed to be 2^nd only to the Great Wall of China in size!

Now it is famous as the birthplace of Maharana Pratap, the great King and warrior of Mewar. It was occupied until the late 19^th century but now the fort is open to the general public as a museum. It is lit up for a while every evening which is supposed to look spectacular. Unfortunately due to paucity of time we did not have the fortune to witness that.

Apparently there are 360 temples within the fort , 300 ancient Jain and the rest Hindu. To ascertain this, would have had to stay at Club Mahindra Resort nearby, maybe will do some other time. But if you have the time and the patience and the interest in history it would be a delightful exercise.

According to legend, in 1443, the Maharana of Kumbhalgarh, Rana Kumbha, was initially unsuccessful in repeated attempts to build the fort wall. To overcome this hurdle a seer was consulted about the construction problems who advised ruler that a voluntary human sacrifice would solve whatever that was causing the impediment. He also advised building a temple at the spot where the head would fall after the sacrifice, and to build the wall and the fort where the rest of his body lay. As can be expected, for quite some time no one volunteered, but one day a pilgrim volunteered and was ritually decapitated. Today the main gate of the fortress, Hanuman Pol, contains a shrine and a temple to commemorate the great sacrifice.

Right on top is the Badal Mahal which offers spectacular views.

We spent a couple of hours taking in the awesome sights of and from the fort and then started back the long walk back to the parking lot with a sense of having participated in the most historic forts of Rajasthan.

The Club Mahindra Resort in Kumbalgarh is a sprawling luxurious property overlookin the magnificent mountains. The fort is barely 5 kms from the resort.

Everything is nothing, nothing is everything! This is what our guide said about the Borobudur temple. Borobudur temple has 13 levels and all the way up the steps, there are carvings of Buddhist culture and history with a tiny bit of Hindu culture. There are war sagas and legendary beauties all the way from level four till level nine. Now, these are not equally spaced levels. From ground level to level four might have been around 20 steps. But upwards happens to get more steeper. After listening to the Buddhist history on level four, we pondered.

Took a moment to enjoy the cool morning breeze and looked around. Coming to Borobudur for the famous sunrise had been worth the ride. Fortyfive minutes from the city of Yogyakarta in Indonesia, in the middle of nowhere, temperate climate and yet really close to a beach. Everything was around the temple. This was Borobudur, within the beautiful jungles Java.  In distance was the active volcano Mt. Merapi. Hot and blazing up smoke.  So the nothing around this temple is indeed Everything.

Why is the Borobudur sunrise so famous? When you walk up the levels of the temple and look east, what you see is the sun rising behind this active volcano. The sight of  hot gases and smoke rising up as sunrays slowly emerge behind Merapi is amazing. It first felt like see a hot cup of coffee with steam against it and a beautiful sunrise. Magnify that hot cup but two million times and that is Merapi for you. Active and scary, the local guides have actually stopped mountain treks to Merapi which were a hit with visitors till a few years ago.

As we walked up the levels ten to thirteen, the last four levels mostly have Stupas. Each of the Stupas is supposed to have a Buddha inside who is seeing the world through the square holes. Restoration of the temple is in progress and some Buddhas can be spotted sitting inside the Stupa with a little teasing smile.

The topmost level was under restoration when I visited in August 2011. But all it housed was another Buddha. Another Buddha looking through the square holes of the Stupa and smiling at the world. That’s the nucleus, the everything. Nothing really!

During our road trip to Rajasthan we were fascinated by the havelis that were so unique and beautiful. We were told by the locals that these were built by the nobles and traders who dared not build palaces and yet had to build palatial mansions to differentiate them from the commoners.

Havelis are huge mansions with beautiful frescoes on their walls and they were built by the rich traders as status symbols. The term ‘haveli’ in Rajasthan was first applied by the Vaishnava sect to refer to their temples but later the Marwaris erected huge buildings and called them havelis. They commissioned artists to paint these buildings which were heavily influenced by the Mughal architecture.

Most of the havelis in Rajasthan are not occupied and are tended to by a caretaker.

The first haveli we saw was in Udaipur – Bagore ki haveli. It is on the banks on Lake Pichola at Gangori Ghat. It was built by Amir Chand Badwa the Prime Minister of Mewar, in the 18^th century. In 1986; it was handed over to the West Zone Cultural Centre who then converted it into a museum. They have done a wonderful job of restoring it in consultation with the experts and members of the royal family. To maintain the local flavour and colour they utilised local material and the services of local craftsmen.

There are numerous corridors & balconies, courtyards and terraces in the haveli. The interiors of the Haveli are embellished with intricate and fine mirror work. On view also are the private quarters of the royal ladies, their bath rooms, dressing rooms, bed rooms, living rooms, worship rooms and recreation rooms.

Unique symbols of the Rajput clan, such as jewellery boxes, dice-games, hukkas, pan boxes, nut crackers, hand fans, rose water sprinklers, copper vessels and other items are also on display here.

The second haveli we saw was in Jaisalmer. It was Patwon ki haveli. This ostentatious haveli was commissioned and constructed in the year 1805 by Guman Chand Patwa, a rich trader. It has ornate wall paintings, intricate yellow sandstone-carved jharokhas (balconies), gateways and archways.

The office of the Archeological Survey of India and State art and craft department is also situated in the haveli.

Just a few minutes walk away from Patwon ki havelis is ther Nathmalji ki haveli.

This Haveli was the residence of Mohta Nathamal who was the Prime Minister at the Jaisalmer Royal Court. It was commissioned by Maharawal Beri Sal and constructed by two architect brothers named Hathi and Lalu.

It is said that the two brothers constructed different facets of the Haveli simultaneously.

At the entrance of the Nathmalji ki Haveli there are two elephants made of yellow stone. There are beautiful pictures of horses, cattles engraved on pillars and walls.

Then in Mandawa we stayed in a haveli that was converted into a Hotel. It was very beautiful, traditional with all the modern conveniences!

Mandawa is full of havelis and we toured the place on foot and overed most of them. The Havelis were built in this grand style by the prosperous merchants of those times. Now the entire town is referred to as an Open Art Gallery.

All these havelis are now tourist attractions. Apart from the havelis there is nothing else to see in Mandawa and it is known as Haveli tourism! Many of the other travellers we encountered during our journey had decided to stay in Club Mahindra resort- The Roop Vilas Palace Nawalgarh and explore Rajasthan..

Dasara Goluvu is celebrated with the at home with the traditional wooden Pattada Bombe couple dolls which is widely available in Tirupati. Dasara is incomplete with the Pattada Bombe and the Kalasha along with the other wooden and clay dolls. The arrangement of dolls is widely followed even today in South Indian states Karnataka (called Dasara), Andhra (called Bommala Koluvu) and Tamil Nadu (Goluvu). The usual collection is Dashavathara, Krishna and Gopikas and a huge variety of dolls made of clay and oil painted. The famous among them is lady dancing doll with shaking head.

The tradition is to arrange the dolls from Day-1 of Dasara and worship every Goddess Lakshmi, Saraswati, Durga. Dasara is concluded by Vijayadashami, the day Pandavas of Mahabharata gain victory after 18 years of exile. It is also believed that the most difficult task is easily accomplished on Vijayadashami.

I did not want to miss the tradition and bought these miniature dolls sold at Victoria Market. Victoria Market, unlike any other market, you name it, you find it. My initial plan was to buy a Japanese doll dressed in the rich Kimono. Later, I dropped the idea learning the price. Considering the space constraint at home, I decided to buy the impressive miniature dolls that are handy and those which I can take along with me to Bangalore. It was a rainy Saturday and closing time. I managed to buy 3 guitars/violin, 3 wooden kimi keychains, kittens for a decent bargain. The seller was happier to give one for free seeing my enthusiam and that made me more meery. Another shop I visited, an aborigin (natives of Australia) was selling Didgeridoo and played it upon my request, though I didn’t buy them. Its too huge to carry and play too.

Bottom Row: L->R 2 Boomerangs in background, Kittens in the basket. 5 crystal elephants, tiny gal with 2 plaits, kitten in basket.

First Row: L->R Japanese Kimmi doll, Guitar, Violin, Guitar, Japanese Kimmi doll

Second Row: L->R Australian Wildlife (Kangaroo and Koala), Didgeridoo, Places in Australia.

Mysore Dasara or rather say Melbourne Dasara or Souvenir Dasara?

CLAY wishes all its readers a Happy Ganesh Chaturthi .  The spirit of the festival can be experienced on the streets as people queue up to bring home the Ganesha. A finishing touch is applied here and there as some of the Ganeshas are covered in plastic sheets,waiting for their turn to be sold. Lining up the streets of  Bangalore and watching the traffic whiz past themare massive and minute forms of the deity gracing the crowds . Here is a photo feature capturing the essence of the festival from the  streets.

The month of fasting is nearly over and Muslims across the world are gearing up to celebrate Ramzan [also called Ramadan or Id-Ul-Fitr].  And there is no hiding that Food and Ramzan has a strong connection. Think succulent kebabs, delicious Biryani, rich curries and molten malpuas served at the best restaurants across the country and you have your excuse to dig in. Here is a heads-up on the Top 3 places across the country to visit,

Khoobani Ka Meetha

[Image courtesy Fullmeals.com]

If you have plans of visiting Mumbai, then this is the right time to go, for you are in for not only a visual treat but a gastronomic one as well. Mohammad Ali Road with its street side stalls and small hotels are overflowing with people eager to try some of the Ramzan specialities.  The kebabs [Beef and Chicken] are the show stoppers and the best ones are found at Haji Tikka, Khara Tank Road in Bhendi Bazaar.  However, if you are not the adventurous kind, then you should visit Khiri where you will find various rich meat dishes, especially beef. Another area in Mumbai that serves up quite a storm is Khau Galli in Central Mumbai, which comes alive post 9pm with streets brimming with people vying for a plate of Biryani or kebabs or the sweet dishes.

Haleem

[Image Courtesy - Zaika.net]

On the other hand, Lucknow has its pride in Tunday Kababi, a century old family-run restaurant  that dishes out plates of  Galouti kebab like nowhere else. Akbari Gate on the other hand is where you get the most divine glass of Kashmiri tea that is perfect before starting your food trail. Make sure to visit Haji Sahib’s shop for a slice of the traditional nihari and kulchha. Wait, its not over yet, you should sample the makhan malai, Lucknow’s own version of saffron-spiked ice cream before you can call it a day.

Biryani

Image Courtesy: Flickr

Ramzan is synonymous with Haleem and the best Haleem is available in Hyderabad only. Tasty and delicious Haleem here is a plate of minced meat cooked with ground wheat and oodles of butter. Pista House, near Charminar at the old City offers the 2^nd best Haleem in town. Biryani is another dish that is a must have during Ramdan season. Called Nawabi or Dum Biryani, No Eid is complete without this Biryani.  Take your pick from Lamb, Chicken or other meat, either way you are in for a treat like never before. Also order a side of mutton korma, mutton do pyaza or murgh musallam, and zafrani murgh to add to te beauty of the meal. Finish off in style with a plate of Kulfi, sheer khurma or sevayyian (which is vermicelli that has been cooked in milk topped with nuts),  khoobani ka meetha (apricots pureed cooked with sugar and topped with fresh cream) and the traditional phirni.

Kulfi

Image Courtesy: Recipes ebest

Let the celebrations begin!! Enjoy the treats no matter where you are…!!

Just like we celebrate our Birthdays, I firmly believe the City we call home also deserves one. Today is my home town, birth place Madras/Chennai’s 372^nd Birthday.

The month of August begins and the excitement mounts. I look forward to the line-up of events dedicated to Madras Day. Infact, it was only few years ago that I discovered Chennai was born on 22^nd August, 1639.

The Chariot in DakhinChitra

The Marina Beach

There are Photowalks to explore various hidden treasures in the lanes scatted around the city; and there are talks where we get to learn about the rich history, culture and art embed within.  The events are quite a treat for those who have been living here and others who are keen on learning more about this city.  A chance for us to enjoy the architecture from the years gone by, visit monuments, buildings, parks and galleries filled with information and pictures related to Chennai and of course to create our own memories..

The Santhome Church

Earlier, Chennai was where I spent my school holidays in, among family and friends, But now, it is my Home, where i know I belong! Even though I’ve been living here for over a decade, there are so many places I’ve not visited, explored or even heard of. Hmm, about time I rectified this, what say?!

The Ashtalakshmi Temple

I have been eyeing the Madras Day agenda almost daily, wondering what all I can be a part of and there are a few that have caught my attention, which have been jotted down in my Calendar.  I am definitely looking forward to the TALK: Lesser known temples of Chennai by Chitra Madhavan on 23^rd August evening [Tuesday] and the HERITAGE WALK : Meandering down Mint Street on 28^th August morning [Sunday] amongst the lot.  Oh gosh, how can I forget to mention the NATURE WALK inside the IIT Madras Campus on 27^th August morning [Saturday]?!

What are the events you are attending? Here is the link for The Madras Day Events

Let the celebrations begin!