Hubby: Let’s go to Pondicherry.
Son: What’s there in Pondicherry?
Me: It was once ruled by the French, and there are still lots of French people there. The old part of the city is also exactly like it was then.
Son: It sounds boring. Let’s go somewhere else.
Hubby: We can get to eat French food!
Son: What is French food?
Me: To begin with, Crêpes – pancakes to you
Son: We’ll get pancakes there? Let’s go!
And that’s how it began… our search for crêpes at Pondicherry.cop

We were in Chennai unexpectedly with a day to spare, and being in the mood to explore, headed towards Pondicherry. None of us had been there before, though we had passed by the East coast road a couple of times on our way to visit some temple or the other. Not knowing what to expect, and without enough time to plan things properly as we usually do, we headed out in a car borrowed from a cousin, deciding to take things as they came.
The union territory of Pondicherry or Puducherry as it is now called, is a former French colony, made up of 4 unconnected districts – Puducherry (in Tamilnadu, near Chennai), Karaikal (also in Tamilnadu, but near Thanjavur), Yanam (in Andhra Pradesh), and Mahe (in Kerala). We were visiting Puducherry, which is about 150 Km from Chennai. The city is divided into two parts – the French quarter, called Ville Blanche or white town, and the Indian quarter, called Ville Noire or Black town. We need no imagination to see where these names came from! The two halves of the city are quite disparate. The French quarter, with its colonial styled houses, roads with names listed neatly in French, the huge churches, neatly laid gardens and the Indian quarter with its comparatively narrower lanes, Indian style houses with verandas and gardens and huge doors, a temple on every lane…. The two are easily recognizable.lat

We then set off in search of something to eat. Our mobiles had decided to give up on us as soon as we arrived in Chennai, so we had no Google to help us out. Since our driver had said that he had been to Pondicherry a number of times, we decided to ask his advice instead. Our question, “Where can we get French food” brought on a frown and a minute’s silence before he finally replied, “All the people I have brought here eat at the Adayar Ananda Bhavan”. Wondering silently if we had come all the way to eat at A2B (as we call the hotel, which is a chain all over south India), we told him to drive around, so that we could look for a place to eat. It took us only a few minutes to realize that driving around would not work. To begin with, he had no idea of the kind of place we wanted to go, and he knew less than nothing about the French quarter. It would be much better for us to explore on our own.
The scorching peak summer heat made walking around difficult, and deferring our exploring for the evening, we managed to find a patisserie and gorged on veg baguettes and milk shakes, slaking our hunger for the moment. The evening saw us setting out once more in search of something remotely ‘French’ to eat! Being vegetarians, we did realize that our options were severely limited, and that the best option was to hunt out a place where we could get something like crêpes for breakfast.

The beach promenade seemed like the place to start, and a friendly traffic policeman sporting a kepi suggested we go to Le Café. The beach was too crowded for us to even want to step in, so we opted to go directly to Le Café, where a table set on the porch gave us a great view of the beach, but kept us at a safe distance from the crowd. We soon realized that the view was the best thing about the place. It was just a café, and all we would get were sandwiches (again!) at this time of the day! In any case, sandwiches and French fries sounded better than idlis and dosas, so we opted for sandwiches again.

Determined to find a place which would serve us crepes for breakfast, we walked up and down the promenade entering every place which looked like a hotel, homestay or lodge. We found quite a few good options for staying, if we ever visited again, but none served anything like crepes for breakfast, and all seemed surprised that we wanted something like it! The only options in hand seemed too expensive – not what we wanted at the moment!
Tiring of the ever increasing crowd at the promenade, we decided to abandon it and try one of the inner roads. At least they would be empty. On the Rue Dumas, we saw a flashy sign for Le Club, which promised ‘authentic French and Italian Cuisine’, but a peep told us that it wasn’t really our kind of place. Next door was a sign that said ‘Dumas Guest House’ and I walked in, without much hope in my heart.

The lady manning the reception spoke English with a French accent, and she smiled happily when my son said, “Bonjour”, showing off his scanty knowledge of French. My enquiry about crêpes brought another smile, and she told me that I had arrived at the wrong time. This was off-season. The place was packed with the local tourists making the most of the summer vacation, but the real tourists wouldn’t arrive until later, when the rains came. That was the best season to spend here, and that was the time the whole place would be filled with stalls selling all kinds of things, especially French food! As of now, we had no choice but to go to one of the larger hotels or a few select ones which served French cuisine throughout the year. However, if all we wanted were crêpes, we did have two other options – the first was La Terrasse, a restaurant barely five minutes away, where pancakes were served all through the day, and the second was the Alliance Française, located right opposite, which served the best breakfast in Pondy! She suggested we try the breakfast at the Alliance Café since we would not be leaving until after breakfast, and we happily decided to accept her advice.

So there we were, at the doors of the Alliance Française at 8:30 in the morning, their first customers of the day! The beautiful old building, with its wooden staircases, and the small garden enclosed by huge walls made us forget the rest of the world outside. As for the menu, there were plenty of choices, but our eyes were drawn just towards one word – crêpes!

Between the three of us, we managed to try out every variety of crêpes they could make this early in the morning – with cinnamon, bananas, apples and honey! My son has had pancakes before, but crêpes were a first for him, so he was rather surprised that it was so thin, unlike the pancakes he normally has. He looked at it with suspicion for a minute, but all it took was a bite, and he was won! He managed to finish off two by himself!

The Alliance Française de Pondicherry was started in 1897, and it was one of the first Alliances in the world after the one in Paris! The café de Flore on its premises is a recent venture, originally opened only for members. Unfortunately, the response wasn’t too good, and it was thrown open to the public, which is a big boon for us! The ambience and the crêpes made our day and we were able to leave happily with full stomachs for our next halt – Auroville!
Plan your visit to Pondicherry with Club Mahindra. For details of our resort visit here