Gangaikondacholapuram – lost in time

The sculpture calls out to me. Carved in stone is a story of a devout cowherd called Chandesa who worships an icon of Shiva on sand and anoints it with milk. His father angrily strikes him and Chandesa retaliates . His staff turns into an axe chopping off his father’s legs, just when Shiva lands on the scene and accepts him into his fold. When the guide finished his narration, it seemed to be just another tale from Indian mythology; but it did not end there.
CHOLA 556
“ See the sculpture carefully , the cowherd is a prince and the prince is the great Rajendra Chola 1,” he said explaining that this could be an allegory . Engraved in stone is the coronation ceremony of Rajendra Chola 1 graced by the Gods – Shiva and Parvati as the prince dedicates all his laurels to them .The sculpture that depicts this celebrated moment is the famous Chandesanugraha murthi panel from the Brihadeshwara temple.

I am in Gangaikondacholapuram,the long lost capital of Rajendra Chola 1 which has mysteriously disappeared leaving behind this mammoth temple. This was the town that once ruled all of India upto the Gangetic plain and also Srilanka, Maldives, Malyasia and Indonesia.
When Rajendra Chola 1 conquered the Gangetic plain, he wanted to portray to posterity that he was probably greater than his father Raja Raja Chola 1 who had immortalised himself with the Big Brihadeshwara temple in Thanjavur.

So he built another Brihadeshwara temple in a new found capital called Gangaikondacholapuram. However he did not complete the temple. And he finally ensured that his father’s temple was bigger than his. There were no answers to this sudden change of heart. Probably the panel was a clue to the sudden decision says my guide.
CHOLA 143-2

The towering 180 feet tall Vimana seem to touch the sky announcing its existence in this otherwise dead capital . A majestic Nandi obstruct our gaze. A few gardeners are tending to the lawn while we soak in the ambience. Various forms of Shiva captured in different moods stand out in the artistic mosaic.

A giant lion shaped sculpture called Simhakinar in the form of the Chola emblem stares at you . ” This is the way the defeated kings used to go down and pour the water they brought down from the Ganga,” says the guide. I peer down and see a flight of steps leading through a tunnel below into a huge well filled with murky water. Rajendra built another huge reservoir which was about 22kms long and elephants were used by the armies to bring the water from the river. “He had brought back more than 1000 pots of holy Ganga water and performed the Kumbabhishekam,” adds my guide.
CHOLA 157

We move on looking for the palace and reach a small mound close by called Malligai medu near a small village called Ulkottai An empty spectacle of sand and rocks greet us. Recent excavations have unearthed some priceless treasures which are now sheltered in a small hut near the temple complex where the State ASI’s museum remains. A Buddha stands on the stony pavement along with some banana vendors as we enter the hut. Smiling silently at me is the king himself from a painting against the wall. The image stays with me as we drive down the highway.

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6 Responses to “Gangaikondacholapuram – lost in time”

  1. Aarti on December 30th, 2009 4:36 pm

    About time i made a trip.. so wanna go visit these places!! Sigh…
    ok, 1st trip in 2010 shall be here.. get well soon and come along plss :)

  2. kanchan singh on February 21st, 2010 1:09 pm

    so beautiful

  3. shreya on June 2nd, 2011 6:34 am

    awsome place!!!!!!! shall visit once!!!!:)

  4. thomas on June 19th, 2011 3:22 pm

    this help in my history homework

  5. thomas on June 19th, 2011 3:24 pm

    this just might help in my history homework

  6. rajeswari on December 31st, 2011 1:26 am

    chola dynasty contributed to siva
    temples.i am from malaysia.
    in kedah, bujang valley state or territory of malaysia
    near penang the aerchaelogist of malaysia have placed the statues safely in a museum .lingam durga duvarabalagan statutes were found.
    chola kings have built this sivan temple.our future generation must always remember the chola kings for their religious work for saivism. tq

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Anuradha Shankar
Anuradha Shankar
A mother, traveller, freelance writer, compulsive bookworm.. not necessarily in that order. She lives in Mumbai and aims to travel as much as she can across the country. Her blog 'A Wandering Mind' is primarily a travel blog, but true to its name it wanders all the time - from events to random thoughts, book reviews to her son's latest peccadilloes!
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