I’m reminiscing about the time  I spent traversing the famous backwaters of Kerala and discovering the ways of southern India. Through my rusty memory, I remember the tranquility of the waters, the countless coconut trees along the coast, and a beautiful evening sky.

Photo Credit:McKay Savage/Creative Commons

It’s hard to describe how a mountain child like me can be so fascinated by a water-logged channel in the backyard of Cochin. Think: a vast expanse of greenish-blue water, where the only ripples are those created by fish and ducks, and by the house boat on the deck of which you’re royally seated, greeted every now and then by a salty breeze. The palms occasionally give way to little coastal villages, one of which we stop at to watch elderly women weave ropes in their primitive ways.

Photo Credit: Christian haugen/Creative Commons

The landscape barely changes for hours, and yet my eyes remain fixated on the water and the horizon beyond. An aura of serenity establishes itself on the boat; no chatter, no movement, just a silent rowing to no destination.

As the sun spots dissolve on the deck, I watch the sun tease the sky with its colors, before rapidly sinking into the horizon. I have seen mountain sunsets, but watching the sun sink low enough to prove that the earth is round, is something else.

Photo Credit: Mikko Koponen/Creative Commons

At the first sign of darkness, stars fill the sky with their twinkling selves, and home-bound fishermen fill the backwaters with little boats and kayaks. Four years on, I can still reconstruct my memory of their darkened faces, their bright smiles, and their enthusiastic waves to us – travelers curiously discovering their  waters.

The backwaters of Kerala never seizes to amaze us, but there is more to Kerala than these endless waterways. When visiting Kerala, you should enjoy the beautiful  sights and sounds by staying at one of Club Mahindra’s properties across Munnar,  Ashtamudi, Poovar or Thekkady.

For example, have a view of the beautiful Club Mahindra Backwater Retreat – Ashtamudi, Kerala:

When you really want something, the whole universe conspires to help you realise your desire.

The surging crowd at the Mumbai airport the day immediately after the voting day was a stark contrast not only to the empty voting centres but also to the cloudless empty skies of the city. The smouldering heat of midsummer afternoon was stinging the eyes as we boarded the aircraft on the tarmac.

The air route from Mumbai to Trivandrum, specially for those sitting on the right side of the plane, is monotonous as the only features visible of the terra firma are: a shore line and the vast sea, made further hazy due to rising heat.

Closer to Trivandrum, the pre-monsoon clouds in the sky surrounding the aircraft, were the first welcome change in the sky while the huge pool of backwaters were changing the landscape . Soon, the aircraft glided with flaps readying for landing towards the land, the sea changed its colour, waves could be seen rocking over the beach seemingly golden with evening sun, and first sight of Trivandrum was a land thickly carpeted green with canopies of coconut plantations. An apt sight while landing in Kerala – the land of Kera (coconut), this sea of tranquility seen on arrival at Trivandrum was a perfect precursor to an idyllic holiday in which our first destination was Ashtamudi.

The random explorations of ours at Ashtamudi culminated in entire montage of memories – morning sunrays weaving their way through numerous Chinese fishing nets, Brahminy kites taking a flight at the break of dawn and intermittently wheeling overhead eyeing the catch of fishermen, small houses with thatched roofs on both sides of the lake using lake for regular transportation the way we use roads, a couple of ferries working late in the night – their reflection in dark waters resembling mumbai’s local trains on a day of heavy rains, bright eyed children with unbridled joy in the surroundings devoid of anything resembling comforts, a couple of fishermen fishing barehand after the dusk with the help of a petromax lamp submerged into the water, an old lady working on her coir making equipment converting a shade full of coconut husk into coir, another lady rowing a boat on her own making her own statement about women empowerment, sounds emerging of a choir singing in the church on one of the evenings, elephants decked up and readied for the procession of the temple festival at Chavara South or wonderful rendering of hindi movie songs – new as well as of yesteryears, by guest singer Mr. Shibu at the Resort.

As the weekend ended, we started the manic monday drive to Poovar – biding audieu to the lake & sea-shore of Kollam, with images of the lazy holiday– some my camera could capture while most of them remain captive to the memory. More of the images captured by camera during this part of our trip can be seen here

My first trip after taking the Club Mahindra memberhsip was to head to Kerala (Munnar and Ashtamudi). I planned a 4 night stay in Munnar and 3 nights at Ashtamudi. Little did I know that these 7 days were going to be the most memorable of my excursions.

 We started our journey on a pleasant Tuesday morning and after 5 tiring hours of being driven from the Coimbatore airport, the resort was a very pleasant sight. Our fatigue just vanished!

Pic : Udit Baranwal

A beautiful steward welcomed us in, applying sandalwood ‘tika’ on our forehead, with its fragrant, heavenly aroma. The cottage we were put in was nothing short of beautiful, and presented us an amazing view of the Munnar Lake. Instantly, the shutterbug inside me took over and I started clicking photos.

Munnar is situated 1,800 meters (5,906 ft) above mean sea level and the temperature during our stay remained between 15 ^o – 21^o Celsius.

P.S. My wife likes the winter season and cold places. She now loves me more for I brought her here.

After dinner, we spent some time at the swing, looking down at the valley in darkness.  We realized how small Munnar was. It’s a very quiet hill station and its beauty lies in the tea plantations all around. Perfectly crafted in a symmetrical shape and size that is unbelievable.

Pic : Udit Baranwal

The next morning we headed to Mattaputty Dam, some 50 Kms from the resort and took a speedboat ride in the beautiful lake. What was amazing was the fact that he handled his boat with one hand at top speed and clicked my SLR camera with another at such an ease. Later back at our room, I checked the shots he had taken and they turned out to be the best of whole trip.

Pic : Udit Baranwal

Back at the esort, we indulged into various activities at the acctivity Center and for the first time I played the game of carrom with my wife. Speaking of games, the resort has a ‘giant chess’ and ‘mini golf’. Chess was fun to play and we burst into laughter as my wife outsmarted me and finally beat me.

After 4 days (and a few kgs. more), we bid goodbye to the courteous staff at the Club Mahindra Lakeview Resort.
We headed to the Club Mahindra Backwater Retreat, Ashtamudi. This beautiful resort is situated in the Kollam district in Kerala. Ashtamudi means ‘eight armed’ and is named after eight arms of the Ashtamudi Lake. Here too, even though it took us 7 tiring hours to cover a distance of 300Kms, the effort was worth it.
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Pic : Udit Baranwal

If cottages and the view at Munnar were beautiful, Ashtamudi was a site to behold. The sea started just 15 steps from our cottage and we were thrilled by the excitement. A hammock right in front of our cottage had me and my wife clamour for it!.

Next day we were invited to take a ride in the resort’s own cruise boat ‘Breeze’, which gave us an opportunity to savour the sights of the backwater. Small villages around it, people engrossed in daily activities and using small boats for conveyance was an amazing sight. You can also dine aboard the boat.

Pic : Udit Baranwal

A visit to the Kollam market was all my wife wanted as soon as we had landed here. She had heard a lot about the speciality of south Indian gold ornaments, silk saris, cashew nuts, spices and wanted a bit of everything. Later, we stopped to have a hearty meal at a local restaurant. There is something special about Kerala cuisine that makes even the simplest of dishes a treat. A very common dish, the “Fish Fry” never tasted this good anywhere in North India. The quintessential “Parota”, made it taste even better. It was only here I saw peas being used in chicken curry. I didn’t mind them. I think coconut oil has done the same wonders to Kerala cuisine as olive oil has done to the west.

We also got an opportunity to visit the Quilon Lighthouse. Close to 200 spiral steps later, we reached the top and met with a breathtaking view of the Kollam City covered with coconut trees and water.

Pics : Udit Baranwal

Back home, the nostalgia of our visit began to hit us. 3 days later, as we were chatting over tea and gobbled some Kerala snacks ’Shakravaratti‘ (Banana chips coated with Jaggery), she commended me on our decision. I couldn’t be more happier!

The kohl brimmed eyes smile at me coyly. ”It is the jasmine flavour,” she says by way of introduction . My eyes close as a heady fragrance lulls me to sleep. The distant flicker of the lamp goes slowly out of focus. A lilting melody floats out of nowhere.

“This is the Shrishruka thailam .It treats sinus,” she adds softly. I open my eyes as she pours the oil from a miniature bronze jar onto her palms. Sandhya, my therapist  is a demure young woman whose delicate fingers work magic on my scalp .

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I am in  God’s own country , getting a taste of God’s own medicine  at Svaastha, an ayurvedic spa started by Club Mahindra in Ashtamudi. Outside the waters from the lake are gently lashing against the coconut trees as the sun ‘s rays paint silvery hues.

I try not to think. After all massages are about shutting your mind and pampering your body. The fingers soothe every ache and coax the rigid muscles as they move from the head to the neck .I feel the essence of ayurveda inside me – a harmony of mind, body and spirit . I float into semi-consciousness . The wooden bed is soaked with the oil –Pinda thailayam as Sandhya deftly strokes my body, caressing and  fondling it . She suddenly pounds  it and awakens every dormant muscle. Her fingers go deep, the strokes get faster and then she gently lets go .I become limp and let my senses take over .The herbal steam lets my skin glisten as the warmth seeps into my body.

I am in the hands of divine medicine, created by Brahma himself and Dhanvantri,“ That’s Ayurveda, a 4000 year old science, a part of Atharvana veda, created by the gods and preserved by man ,”explains ayurvedic doctor Ratheesh Kumar who hast just  diagnosed that my body is a “pitha-vatha combination.” He  refers  to the bio energies in the human body -  vatha, pitha and kafa .”Vatha is air and ether, pitha is fire and kafa is water and earth. “ he explains as ayurveda is based on these five elements called Panchamahabudhas .”

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I step out ,rejuvenated and the beauty is mesmerising .The breeze had just set in clearing the overcast clouds .The coconut trees gently swayed ,touching the backwaters which lashed against them. I stand at the edge of this wide shore and take in the scene , as Dr. Ratheesh joins me , exclaiming.“ This could not have been done by a human.. ..” I look up to see him holding a book on Ayurveda.

“Can you imagine 4000 years ago.. getting all the herbs from various parts of the country and mixing them in the right proportion ? I mean there was no documentation at all ,” adds the doctor about this science of life.
The Ashtamudi lake stretches out in front of my eyes with the coconut trees interrupting the seamless flow. Shades of blue emerge from the waters as I was lost gazing at the colours. It is one of the best kept secrets of Kerala.

The second largest lake after Vembanad and yet , tourism is a recent phenomena here. The Chinese nets lay scattered on the waters as the fishermen are waiting for the night to dawn. Small green islands glisten like emeralds against the blue horizon , some of them home to just three or four families. And their connection to civilisation is only through narrow canals and wooden bridges.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I ask Dr Ratheesh as to why he chose to become an ayurvedic doctor . He laughs, amused .”As children, we used to go only to ayurvedic doctors even for a cold or fever like the way you go to a regular doctor.. its quite common in Kerala .There are universities teaching ayurveda here like allopathy ,” he adds, saying that he graduated from Trivandrum after a five year course.

I wonder how an ancient science like ayurveda has become an exotic treatment, restricted largely to resorts and a few centres.” Thats because tourism thrives on wellness , but ayurveda can even be used for surgery ,” explains the doctor adding that there are nine branches of ayurveda which includes general medicine, surgery, ENT, pediatrics, toxicology, gynecology ,psychiatry, infertility and anti-aging . Reading my mind, the doctor continues,” The basic principle of surgery as we know today was earlier created by Susruta, but after the advent of Jainism and Buddhism , dissection as we understand today was not encouraged.. then of course, western medicine took over..”

I sip cool coconut water and walk around the small herbs garden. My initiation into ayurveda continues .”There is hardly any documentation. Families have preserved the various formulae on palm leaf and hand written manuscripts and they have been handed down every generation. Thats how this science has actually survived across centuries.”

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

A lone boatman waves out to us . We walk towards the lake as he offers us a ride. The Kallada river empties into the Ashtamudi lake and creates eight branches giving the lake its name. “Its like an octopus with eight hands “ says my boatman Balu describing the lake. We discuss the route. I cross several small islands and go around the Thalababuram bridge . Balu  points to “ seacrows”  as the cormorants  dip their beaks in the waters catching their morning fish . The herons and storks give them company.

The villages make a pretty picture. Colourful houses in yellow, orange and lavender stand out amidst the blue green mosaic.  Life unfolds in these little villages. An old man comfortably reads the morning paper in his boat.Another duo are returning home. A young girl along with her father are rowing their mother to the neighbouring market. A group of villagers are dressed for church as they board the boat. Balu says the boats made of wood from mango trees is very sturdy .He gets animated when we discuss fishing.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

“ There are different specialists – for prawns, karimeen, crabs and even the local fish –Kuzhavali.” Balu then delves into the different kinds of nets and techniques used for fishing. However  the rods stand out as the nets are still not  ready . “Fishing happens only in the night madam, the fishermen are sleeping now,” he explains.

The early morning karimeen auction is just over. There is complete silence but for the breeze . The landscape is devoid of people , but for us. I look at the vast expanse of water, the sun’s rays stroking it, the birds and the islands.. Its little wonder why Kerala is called Gods own country. The doctor’s words come back “Svaastha or Ayurveda is a balance of body, mind and spirit ..” Cruising down the Ashtamudi lake, I feel the balance restored inside me.

Pic : Sharath K

Getting there
Kollam or Quilon is the closest town to Ashtamudi as its on the banks of the lake. The lake connects to the Arabian Sea forming an estuary and it can be viewed from the Needakara bridge enroute to the Kollam town. The beach at Kollam and the old lighthouse at Thangasherry are some of the common sightseeing options for tourists. There are very few resorts here, besides the Club Mahindra resort. A few homestays and small private resorts are available . House boats are available at Kollam as well. It is about 70 kms from Trivandrum International airport