The kohl brimmed eyes smile at me coyly. ”It is the jasmine flavour,” she says by way of introduction . My eyes close as a heady fragrance lulls me to sleep. The distant flicker of the lamp goes slowly out of focus. A lilting melody floats out of nowhere.

“This is the Shrishruka thailam .It treats sinus,” she adds softly. I open my eyes as she pours the oil from a miniature bronze jar onto her palms. Sandhya, my therapist  is a demure young woman whose delicate fingers work magic on my scalp .

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I am in  God’s own country , getting a taste of God’s own medicine  at Svaastha, an ayurvedic spa started by Club Mahindra in Ashtamudi. Outside the waters from the lake are gently lashing against the coconut trees as the sun ‘s rays paint silvery hues.

I try not to think. After all massages are about shutting your mind and pampering your body. The fingers soothe every ache and coax the rigid muscles as they move from the head to the neck .I feel the essence of ayurveda inside me – a harmony of mind, body and spirit . I float into semi-consciousness . The wooden bed is soaked with the oil –Pinda thailayam as Sandhya deftly strokes my body, caressing and  fondling it . She suddenly pounds  it and awakens every dormant muscle. Her fingers go deep, the strokes get faster and then she gently lets go .I become limp and let my senses take over .The herbal steam lets my skin glisten as the warmth seeps into my body.

I am in the hands of divine medicine, created by Brahma himself and Dhanvantri,“ That’s Ayurveda, a 4000 year old science, a part of Atharvana veda, created by the gods and preserved by man ,”explains ayurvedic doctor Ratheesh Kumar who hast just  diagnosed that my body is a “pitha-vatha combination.” He  refers  to the bio energies in the human body -  vatha, pitha and kafa .”Vatha is air and ether, pitha is fire and kafa is water and earth. “ he explains as ayurveda is based on these five elements called Panchamahabudhas .”

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I step out ,rejuvenated and the beauty is mesmerising .The breeze had just set in clearing the overcast clouds .The coconut trees gently swayed ,touching the backwaters which lashed against them. I stand at the edge of this wide shore and take in the scene , as Dr. Ratheesh joins me , exclaiming.“ This could not have been done by a human.. ..” I look up to see him holding a book on Ayurveda.

“Can you imagine 4000 years ago.. getting all the herbs from various parts of the country and mixing them in the right proportion ? I mean there was no documentation at all ,” adds the doctor about this science of life.
The Ashtamudi lake stretches out in front of my eyes with the coconut trees interrupting the seamless flow. Shades of blue emerge from the waters as I was lost gazing at the colours. It is one of the best kept secrets of Kerala.

The second largest lake after Vembanad and yet , tourism is a recent phenomena here. The Chinese nets lay scattered on the waters as the fishermen are waiting for the night to dawn. Small green islands glisten like emeralds against the blue horizon , some of them home to just three or four families. And their connection to civilisation is only through narrow canals and wooden bridges.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I ask Dr Ratheesh as to why he chose to become an ayurvedic doctor . He laughs, amused .”As children, we used to go only to ayurvedic doctors even for a cold or fever like the way you go to a regular doctor.. its quite common in Kerala .There are universities teaching ayurveda here like allopathy ,” he adds, saying that he graduated from Trivandrum after a five year course.

I wonder how an ancient science like ayurveda has become an exotic treatment, restricted largely to resorts and a few centres.” Thats because tourism thrives on wellness , but ayurveda can even be used for surgery ,” explains the doctor adding that there are nine branches of ayurveda which includes general medicine, surgery, ENT, pediatrics, toxicology, gynecology ,psychiatry, infertility and anti-aging . Reading my mind, the doctor continues,” The basic principle of surgery as we know today was earlier created by Susruta, but after the advent of Jainism and Buddhism , dissection as we understand today was not encouraged.. then of course, western medicine took over..”

I sip cool coconut water and walk around the small herbs garden. My initiation into ayurveda continues .”There is hardly any documentation. Families have preserved the various formulae on palm leaf and hand written manuscripts and they have been handed down every generation. Thats how this science has actually survived across centuries.”

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

A lone boatman waves out to us . We walk towards the lake as he offers us a ride. The Kallada river empties into the Ashtamudi lake and creates eight branches giving the lake its name. “Its like an octopus with eight hands “ says my boatman Balu describing the lake. We discuss the route. I cross several small islands and go around the Thalababuram bridge . Balu  points to “ seacrows”  as the cormorants  dip their beaks in the waters catching their morning fish . The herons and storks give them company.

The villages make a pretty picture. Colourful houses in yellow, orange and lavender stand out amidst the blue green mosaic.  Life unfolds in these little villages. An old man comfortably reads the morning paper in his boat.Another duo are returning home. A young girl along with her father are rowing their mother to the neighbouring market. A group of villagers are dressed for church as they board the boat. Balu says the boats made of wood from mango trees is very sturdy .He gets animated when we discuss fishing.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

“ There are different specialists – for prawns, karimeen, crabs and even the local fish –Kuzhavali.” Balu then delves into the different kinds of nets and techniques used for fishing. However  the rods stand out as the nets are still not  ready . “Fishing happens only in the night madam, the fishermen are sleeping now,” he explains.

The early morning karimeen auction is just over. There is complete silence but for the breeze . The landscape is devoid of people , but for us. I look at the vast expanse of water, the sun’s rays stroking it, the birds and the islands.. Its little wonder why Kerala is called Gods own country. The doctor’s words come back “Svaastha or Ayurveda is a balance of body, mind and spirit ..” Cruising down the Ashtamudi lake, I feel the balance restored inside me.

Pic : Sharath K

Getting there
Kollam or Quilon is the closest town to Ashtamudi as its on the banks of the lake. The lake connects to the Arabian Sea forming an estuary and it can be viewed from the Needakara bridge enroute to the Kollam town. The beach at Kollam and the old lighthouse at Thangasherry are some of the common sightseeing options for tourists. There are very few resorts here, besides the Club Mahindra resort. A few homestays and small private resorts are available . House boats are available at Kollam as well. It is about 70 kms from Trivandrum International airport