I was on a blogger’s trip to Corbett invited by Club Mahindra and here is a visual articulation of my experience there .

Sunrise at Corbett : Early morning light filtering through a forest canopy always makes for a good picture.

Corbett Falls : A pretty waterfall aptly named after the legendary Jim Corbett.

Corbett : A mosaic of a landscape that makes Corbett a rich repository of wildlife

Nainital (enroute) : As you go up from Ramnagar towards Nainital, the landscape changes dramatically and is very picturesque.

Eurasian Hobby : Sitting high on a branch, the Hobby was patiently waiting and keeping a watch on the ground below.

Grey Wagtail : This pretty bird was a wonderful sight as it went about prancing in the shallow waters around the pebbles looking for insects.

Indian Robin : The male robin is easily identified by its dark body, reddish vent and characteristic upward flick of the tail.

Plumheaded Parakeet : The female parakeet has a grey head unlike the male of its species

Quaker : This dainty little butterfly was seen on the banks of the Kosi.

Rhesus Macaque : The Rhesus Macaque is a primate found in the northern parts of India. This individual was foraging the garbage around with its troop.

River Lapwing : This handsome bird is a close relative of the more widespread Red-wattled Lapwing.

Robberfly-dragonfly : This was the catch of the trip. The robberfly and the dragonfly are both predators in their own right. However, on this occasion, the dragonfly fell prey to the robberfly.

It is four in the morning and the eyes are still getting used to the darkness around . An icy breeze tugs at you, awakening the silent waters of the River Kosi flowing through the Club Mahindra resort. Standing on the banks of the river, I watch the moonlit ridges of the mountains, towering above, almost touching the jeweled sky. While some of my fellow travelers are star gazing, a few are attempting night photography. I , for one am just lost in the silence.

The summons arrive on the mobile and we are hurriedly on our way to keep up our date with the tiger in the forests of Corbett . It is our second attempt out there to meet the most coveted denizen of the jungle, having spent an entire day in the wilds . But the tiger probably was aware that almost 20 vehicles would be entering through the Jhirna zone for a rendezvous. So it left us high and dry, leaving behind its pugmarks as we saw several jeeps bringing in all types of tourists including international students who would break into a jig at the very sight of even a deer. We did see several birds, butterflies and smaller mammals, but for the “tiger tourists”, the sightings were just not enough.

Today , however as we board our jeeps, there is a feeling of hope. It is an auspicious moment, as the Bijrani Gate of the Jim Corbett National Park is to be opened  today ,months after the monsoons. The other gates, am told are still closed.

As we drive away in the darkness, hoping for an encounter,  we have no idea  what is in store for us .The experience begins at the government office in Ramnagar.. A couple of members from our group are already waiting there for the last hour to get the requisite permits and documents for the safari. I am told it’s a bit of luck and some push here and there. Then we see the never ending queue for the permits. And that is when I learn a bit about the trappings of tiger tourism . We wait there for what seems like hours.

Finally there are smiles all around as we make our way to the gate. And then the never ending wait begins as another 20 odd jeeps queue up around. Dawn breaks and the sunlight filters as restlessness sets in. The drivers exchange notes and the topic of discussion veers around the recent strike by the forest guides who are demanding more rights. “In fact “says my driver “the opening of the gates was postponed by a few days because of the strike. “  I ask him why we are still waiting and he says some officials have to come.  We laugh wondering if there is some form of an opening ceremony and to my surprise, a television crew lands . The interviews with the officials are on ; the cameraman takes some footage of us , sleepy eyed and hungry waiting to enter the national park . And finally after more teas and pakodas, the green signal is given and after almost a couple of hours wait,  we enter the national park

The sunlight filters through the tall sal trees as we drive along the safari route of this deciduous forests, squinting through the dense foliage . The naturalist in our group Karthikeyan Srinivasan keeps us engaged , spotting birds , spiders and small mammals.  . Corbett he says has about 600 species of birds, of the 1200 recorded in India. We spot a mongoose , while our friends see the rare yellow throated marten ,besides langurs and deer . But then the tiger, probably having spotted the jeep load of tourists, has again moved on , leaving its footprints on the sands of time. As we head back, the birders in our group are happy , but the tiger tourists are a tad disappointed .

As for me, Corbett is more to do with the man,  Jim Corbett himself than about the tigers he hunted .Corbett National Park, the oldest in India was earlier known as Hailey National Park before it took the name of the famous naturalist, author of several books. And having grown up on his “Man eaters of Kumaon,” I saw the villages and the forests vividly in front of my eyes, as I had imagined while reading the book.

My favourite memory of Corbett is visiting his house, now a museum in Kaladhungi,  walking around it, looking at the paintings and imagining him being on call from villagers when a man-eater struck in their hamlets. And as I walk away , his words remain in my mind .. “A tiger is a large-hearted gentleman with boundless courage and that when he is exterminated – as exterminated he will be unless public opinion rallies to his support – India will be the poorer by having lost the finest of her fauna. “

However, I am sure,  I will get a glimpse of  this “large hearted gentleman “someday in the forests .

This story was published in The Hindu Metro Plus as a part of the author’s column, Inside Story. The author was part of the Bloggers’ Meet in Corbett. For details regarding the resort, please visit here

The noise is deafening but I am much thankful about the ability of human brain to totally phase out the distractions and transport one to a different time and day altogether. This Diwali, the sound of crackers is slowly fading out as the gentle echo of the flowing river is ringing in my ears. A vision forms in my head, of a huge glass window, of a comfortable bed, of green forests beyond and a charming river called Kosi. A week before, I spent few days in the foothills of Himalayas, wandering in the dreamy realms of forests around Corbett.

Few weeks ago, when I was invited for a blogger’s meet hosted by Club Mahindra Safari Resort, truth to be told, I was more excited about meeting fellow bloggers than being in Corbett itself. I think I had forgotten what it felt like, to be in forests. I thank Corbett for reminding me of the grandeur of the woods! I thank club Mahindra for taking me there to begin with.

The first thing that struck me as we reached our rooms was the view, it was gorgeous! Usually resorts almost always do have a good view, but the reason I liked this view so much more was the resort’s proximity to the river and the cozy feeling surrounding it. The nights were comfortably cold as opposed to the piercing cold winter nights which made it possible to walk by the river side and watch the hills beyond till late nights. While the mornings were quite pleasant, nights were spectacular. Starry skies used to surround us as darkness descended. Whiling away time waiting for shooting stars and watching the moon rise over the hill reflecting the silvery glow in the flowing waters were some of the best memories of the trip. To think that there was a time when darkness used to scare me! [Frankly speaking I still am afraid of darkness, well in weird places. ]

If that was about idling in comfort in nature’s lap, the eclectic mix of people was just as fun with varied conversations and discussions. With social media experts to naturalists and travelers to photographers, the group had it all. What such different people brought along with them were such different perspectives. Few were happy watching the colorful avifauna, while few were interested in observing spiders and insects, few were busy trying to spot mammals, few were enjoying being in the forest and I was busy light stalking.

Like I said earlier, I had forgotten how it felt to be in the jungles. The moment we entered the jungles of Corbett, the show began! The forest came alive. The golden glow of the early morning sun and the greenery painted an unforgettable picture. I was gaping at the jaw dropping scenery unraveling itself at every turn and every once in a while when I turned back, something like this was happening!

The gleaming beams of sun rays from behind the leaves left me almost blinded at many occasions. Yet, I tried and tried to see through the lens, if not my eyes, the lens could have been burned for sure! Sunbursts, they are called, and I tried my best to capture as many as I could. Whenever the vehicle stopped for the bird watchers to observe, the sudden calmness instigated a desire to the listen to the song of the forest.

Next day, driving though the verdant jungle of Sal trees, I was all too eager to spot some magic again. Of course the light didn’t disappoint me! Golden glow and faint silhouettes was the picture being painted today by the gods. Watching the streaks of rays through the canopy, I was smiling involuntarily. As much trouble it was, waking up at ungodly hours to reach the forest by the golden hour, it was all worth it!

I came back charmed by the forests and stunned by the play of light, a photographer’s delight! Don’t you agree?

Neelima was one of the bloggers who was invited to Club Mahindra’s resort at Corbett for the Bloggers Trip 2011

We’ve spent a chunk of the day in the jungles of Corbett, praying for a glimpse of the elusive big cat, thanking our stars for a rare sighting of the Yellow-throated Marten, and marveling at the magnificent colors of the Kingfisher, the Woodpecker & the Chestnut Bee-eater. I’ve rediscovered my love for the wilderness, but I’m equally glad to be back in my apartment; it is not everyday that I’m pampered with riverside luxury.

I watch the sunlight dancing in the river Kosi from the balcony of my Club Mahindra apartment, the water splashing over the rocks. This Corbett adventure is part of Club Mahindra‘s travel blogging trips across India, and I feel privileged to be part of it this year. Three days ago, six of us bloggers arrived at the Club Mahindra Safari Resort, with dreams of looking a tiger eye-to-eye in India’s oldest tiger reserve. As we watched the sun rise over Kosi from behind the mountains that morning, we didn’t know that we’d leave seeing a lot more.

I lounge in my balcony a little longer, charmed by the tirelessly flowing river, and then reluctantly give up my spot for a discussion on India’s biodiversity with Mr S.Karthikeyan, the first Indian naturalist I’ve met. I’m transfixed as he displays figure after figure, and picture after picture, of the lives we never think about. That night, he catches a little beetle crawling along a wall light, gently but firmly overturns it, and asks us what a cockroach does when overturned. Struggles, I think to myself, ducking my head close to it. Much to my surprise, the little guy leaps in a high back-flip and turns itself upright – a flipping beetle, it’s aptly called! Smiling, I think he too could be a tiger in an alternate universe.

As the sun starts to fade away in the evening sky, I stroll along the river, past the swimming pool, and into the gardens where the grass is still glittering in the fading sunlight. They remind me of the gardens we saw surrounding Jim Corbett‘s winter home. The man saved many a villager by hunting man-eating tigers & leopards, 50 and 250 of them respectively to be precise! I imagine Corbett’s lifestyle back in the 40s, when his humble two room house must’ve been surrounded by dense forests, with only a trail leading up to it. I imagine the nights he must’ve sat out, looking for his victims. A shiver runs down my spine as I see a cat staring at me from the path ahead, and I calmly make my way back to where my blogger friends are furiously photographing the orange sky and its reflection on the water.

As the air starts to get chilly, we camp ourselves under the stars and watch the artists of the region perform a Kumaoni version of the bagpiper. Every now and then, we look up from our delicious traditional Kumaoni meal and catch a shooting star, until the moon reveals itself from behind the mountains, and hogs all our attention. Following a string of after-dinner conversations & desserts, I walk back to the coziness of my room, convinced that ours is a lucky generation to enjoy the comforts of modern living amid the charms of nature.

Shivya was on invitation from Club Mahindra to attend the Blogger’s  Trip to Corbett

Dragonflies ruled the air. When they evolved some 300 million years ago, they were unquestioned masters of the skies. They were also large – a fossil dragonfly had a wingspan of about 75 cm! Today, we do not have such giant dragonflies flying about. However, they still continue to be strong, powerful and agile fliers. They are also among the fastest flying insects in the world.

Armed with powerful mandibles and 6 spiny legs that form a neat little basket just below their heads, they are also excellent predators. Dragonflies can catch their prey in mid air. They are known to make a meal out of mosquitoes, mayflies, butterflies, moths, and a whole lot of other insects. They virtually feed on anything that they can overpower.

Dragonflies, though predators themselves, must be wary of other organisms which could feed on them. Birds particularly, pick dragonflies with ease. Lizards, frogs, spiders are all potential threats to adult dragonflies and their dainty cousins – the damselflies.

During a recent visit to Corbett National Park I stayed at the Club Mahindra Safari Resort. What I saw here took me completely by surprise. I was walking up the ramp to the dining hall when something on the railing caught my attention. I ventured closer to understand what was happening. To my amazement, I saw a robberfly holding on to a dragonfly. The robberfly was in complete control of the situation – with a firm grip on the dragonfly and the proboscis pierced into its neck, the dragonfly had no chance of escape!

Robberflies are powerful predators too. I have often seen them prey on non-predatory insects much larger than themselves. To see a dragonfly, a powerful predator itself, becoming a meal of a robberfly was a learning indeed.

Often such amazing things happen around us and we are blinded by the urge to see more charismatic things. An open eye and mind can cause far less disappointments when we are in the outdoors for nature always has something on offer, albeit for the discerning eye and mind.

Karthikeyan Srinivasan is a renowned naturalist based in Bangalore and was a member of the Bloggers Trip to Corbett in September 2011.

Nature tweeted in the form of an invite from Club Mahindra to a Bloggers’ trip at their lovely property on the banks of Kosi river in Dhikuli, near the famed Corbett National Park.

We all were flown in to Delhi airport from Mumbai, Bangalore and Chennai where we gathered to move on to Ramnagar by road which was around 300kms away. The road between Moradabad and Kashipur (60kms) was in a bad shape. Otherwise it was a lovely drive through the night.

Having checked in to our respective rooms, we realised that there were river lapwings and a peacock to welcome us!

We rested awhile and then the fun and games began at the adventure activity ,where we did some filmy stunts and free falling from an old bridge that was built in 1877! This sure had our appetite roaring for food which we had in ‘Machan’ in the resort.

The evening was reserved for a safari to Sitabani for bird watching. On our return we witnessed a gorgeous sunset too!

We retired early as next day we were to visit the Corbett waterfalls, Corbett museum and the cool hillstation Nainital! Had a lovely day and went to bed that night dreaming about the tigers that we would go to spot the next day.

We drove off by 5am to the Corbett National Park through the Jhirna gate which remains open throughout the year. Spent the full day there but the 164 tigers and 700+ elephants just plainly ignored us and refused to be seen! However we were not majorly disappointed as our fellow traveller Mr.S.Karthikeyan  a senior naturalist was with us. He kept us busy pointing out to some wonderful birds and other creatures of the jungle.

We decided to give the tiger another chance of giving us darshan by visiting next morning through the Bijrani gate which was scheduled to be open that day and we would be one of the 1^st group of visitors! The evening was enlivened by the performance of Kumaoni dancers arranged by the Club Mahindra Safari resort.

We went with high hopes but again returned with some lovely memories of a varied life in the jungle sans the famed tiger. We witnessed a barking deer crossing and antlers hanging around to be photographed. It was thoroughly enjoyable even  though we did not sight the famed tiger.

Post lunch we were enlightened by Mr.S.Karthikeyan in an hour’s talk on Biodiversity and the need to be more nature friendly and ways to go about it.

Overall it was a great meet to put names and characters to the names of bloggers with whom we had interacted and an opportunity to exchange notes and ideas.

We returned home refreshed and enlightened,with wonderful memories of a lovely place

The Kosi river forms the eastern boundary of the Corbett National Park, and Club Mahindra’s Corbett Safari Resort is located on its banks. The winter had begun to set in, and the river was just a narrow stream, though flowing quite deep and fast at some stretches. The rest of the river was just a bed of stones worn smooth by the flow over the years, a tempting sight for me, since as you all know, I love to collect stones!

On the very first day of our Bloggers trip at the Club Mahindra Corbett Safari Resort, we went upstream to an old bridge to try out some adventure sports.

The first thing I noticed was the bridge itself! The suspension bridge stretched over the wide river, and even from a distance, looked quite old.

A board told us that the bridge was built by the Central Water Commission, and though the year wasn’t quite clear, we were told by a helpful lemonade seller (the only vendor in the area) that it was built in the year 1877!

My appreciation for the bridge rose at once, and since I am really queasy when it comes to any adventure activity, decided to explore the bridge and its environs while the others had some active fun!

The age of the bridge and its condition is obvious, and seeing the growth of grass all over made me wonder how safe it is, especially when all of us walked over, and we could feel the vibration!

I was intrigued especially by the narrow channel on one side of the river……And the remains of a wheel system in it….

Could this have once been a mill wheel? What do you think?

The warmth of the sun seemed to bring out the butterflies….

And other insects, such as these damsel flies, and also grasshoppers….

And while I was busy clambering up and down the sandy banks of the river to reach the stone filled bed, the others were all busy too…some watched birds and butterflies while some photographed them, while the active ones tried out river crossing, rappelling and other such activities…

This was a place I could have stayed at forever! There were kids – local, I suppose, splashing in the water, and though I can’t swim to save my life, I wished I could join them! The water was so inviting, and I wished I could just sit there on the stones, with my feet in the water, a notebook on my lap, waiting for inspiration to strike! But it was time to leave, and the adventurous ones were lowered into the water from the bridge, and as they walked back to the jeep, I packed up my thoughts and headed back too. This is one place I will surely be back to, whenever I visit Corbett again!

Anuradha Shankar was one of the travel bloggers who was with us in the Bloggers TriptpoC to Corbett . For details on the Club Mahindra resort in Corbett, please visit here

Corbett National Park is the oldest national park in India and has a wide variety of flora and fauna. The critically endangered Royal Bengal Tiger rules the jungle here and that has converted this national park into a popular ecotourism destination. However, the park has over 580 species of birds alone. Here are some of the birds I photographed in my recent visit to the park.

Indian Roller or Blue Jay (Coracias benghalensis) is a beautiful, bright bird and is the state bird of 4 states – Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Bihar and Orissa. The Roller gets its name from the aerobatic display the male puts up with its twists and turns during the breeding season. The birds have an assortment of colors like bright blue, turquoise, indigo and white on their wings and are a visual treat in flight. They are commonly seen in open grasslands, scrub forests and are often perched on dead trees and electric lines. They are easily one of the most photogenic birds around.

Chestnut-tailed Starling (Sturnia malabarica) is a member of the Starling family of birds. A sub species exists in the Western Ghats which has a white head. These Starlings are omnivorous and feed on insects, nectar and fruits. Like most Starlings, these birds fly in a tight flock and have the ability to change directions rapidly with perfect synchrony.

Crested Serpent Eagle (Spilornis cheela) is a bird of prey that is found widely across many different habitats in India. In comparison to other large raptors, the bird is fairly medium-sized. They hunt for snakes and lizards by flying over the forest canopy. They usually make nests close to a water body. These eagles have a prominent yellow eye and are a treat to watch and photograph.

White-rumped Shama (Copsychus malabaricus) was earlier known as the Shama Thrush. The bird is a melodious singer and has a rich, clear voice. It is also known to mimic other birds often. While photographing this bird, I recall how it kept singing. When other birds joined in, the Shama began to mimic songs and calls, including that of the Common Hawk Cuckoo, or the Brain-Fever bird! They are mainly insectivorous birds. During the breeding season, the female builds the nest in the hollow of a tree, while the male stands guard.

Green Bee-eater (Merops orientalis) is a common bird and can be found in various habitats like grasslands, scrub jungles and even away from water. They have vibrant colors and when perched together, they make a colorful sight. As the name suggests, Bee-eaters mainly feed on bees, wasps, ants and dragonflies. A Bee-eater repeatedly thrashes the prey on a branch to remove the sting from its prey before feeding on it.

For more pictures visit here

This summer we took a long sought after vacation in the hills of Kumaon. The vacation began with a journey on a tramp train & ended again with a tramp train. And the period in between was just a perfect match wherein the mind & body decided to wander around with no known purpose – and why not? Its not always that one gets to explore the absolute green, verdant forest so close to Himalayas.

Its a different story that unlike most of our planned holidays, this one’s planning went for a toss when just a few days before the vacation was to begin, Gurjars of Rajasthan started rail blockade, severing Mumbai from the North. We were lucky to the extent that our train did not get cancelled.

However, travelling in a tramp train, which was scheduled to complete the journey in 16 hours but did it in about 26 hours, has its own share of fun and ordeals. Fortunately for us, the ordeals were lesser than the fun as we crawled through the areas like Chambal Ravines & getting a glimpse of Raj history through distant views of forts of Jhansi & Gwalior.

However, except the beginning & the end of this vacation, the trip had some of the most wonderful moments in our journey through Nainital, Ranikhet & Corbett.

The hills of Kumaon, unlike the hills of Garhwal, are more seductive, with their undulating landscape well covered with trees reaching towards heaven, fruits & flowers in abundance.

And they did succeed by converting an urban person like me into an urban yayawar. So here is me looking forward to being more of an yayawar while you all can get glimpses of some of these moments which I have tried to capture through my camera.

The Corbett national park is named after Jim Corbett, (the Indian-born British hunter, who later turned into a wildlife conservationist) who played an important role in establishing it.

Courtesy Arun Bhat - paintedstork.com

The Jim Corbett National park is a sanctuary for the critically endangered Bengal Tiger (Panthera tigris bengalensis).

Tiger - Corbett. Copyright FlickR Candle Tree

Abundant in flora and fauna, the Corbett National park is ecologically diverse, with around 480 different species of plants.

Rich in Flaura and Fauna - Source FlickR netlancer2006

The Jim Corbett national park is situated in the Nainital district of Uttarakhand, and experiences temperature in the range of 5 degrees to 30 degrees celcius (in summer).

Misty Corbett - Source FlickR - Eileen Delhi

The area also experiences light to heavy rainfall during the monsoons.

Hills of the Kumaon - Corbett. Source: FlickR Rocky aka Rakesh Barua