Standing on the top of Bennegudda hill, there is something interesting to see in every direction. Spread to the north are the ruins of ancient city of Dwarasamudra and remains of its temples of stone. To the east is the famed Hoysaleshwara Temple and the large lake that attract travellers in drones from all over the world. To the south, not far from Hoysaleshwara Temple, is another complex of finely carved structures of stone that have weathered the times. Finally, to the west is an open expanse of villages and fields, with tall hills of western ghats visible in the horizon. The hills are so far away that their fading ridges seem to merge into the sky.

The city of Dwarasamudra that once encompassed Bennegudda was built by the kings of thousand-year old Hoysala Kingdom. The Hoysala dynasty came into existence in a time when the Chalukya Kings dominated the northern parts of Karnataka, while a struggle was on between the Cholas and Gangas for dominion in the south. The ancestors of the Hoysalas joined hands with the Gangas in the war against Cholas, and eventually built their own kingdom on the edge of Malnad region. They established their capital at Dwarasamudra in later half of eleventh century, now called Halebeedu. Their kingdom spread as far as Madurai in south and Lakkundi in the north as they grew stronger over generations. In the days of their prime, Vishnuvardhana, the Hoysala king who ruled in the first half of twelfth century, defeated the Cholas in Talakadu and supported construction of ornate temples of stone all along his kingdom. Many of these temples have survived even today as the evidence of a time when craft of carving excelled.

The Hoysaleshwara temple in Halebeedu is one of the finest examples of their architecture. The two shrines in the star shaped temple are dedicated to Hoysaleshwara and Shantalaeshwara, named after the king and the queen. Heavily decorated outer walls have eleven layers of friezes at the bottom, with rows of distinctly carved elephants, lions, horses, the mythical creature makara and stories from the puranas. One of those stories shows the gods and demons churning the ocean using Serpant Vasuki coiled around the mountain of Manadara. In another sculpture, Bheema is depicted going to after the enemy troupes in the war of Kurukshetra, killing elephants and piling them up on his way. Above the friezes are four-feet high statues of gods and goddesses carved to such a precision that even fingernails, teeth and lines on the hands can be identified clearly.

The best sculptures are seen on the south door of the temple, which was used by the king and the royal family. The door keepers here are framed to a fine detail, with every bead in their ornament highlighted distinctly. To the east are two Nandi Mantapas, each of them facing a deity of the temple. The Nandis are the sixth and seventh largest statues of the bull in the country.

South of Hoysaleshwara temple is the smaller Kedareshwara temple, which shares architectural elements with its neighbour. While the former is buzzing with activity of tour groups and guides, Kedareshwara Temple has a deserted calm, allowing the visitor to explore at one’s own pace.

On the way to Kedareshwara Temple is Bastihalli, a small hamlet that houses three Jain Temples dating back to the days of King Vishnuvardhana. The highlight of Parshwanatha Basadi, the largest of the three, is a mantapa with an array thick cylindrical pillars. Inside the temple is a 16-feet high statue of Parswanatha standing in the shade of a five headed serpent. The roof of the main hall hosts small statues of the twenty four tirthankaras. Besides Parshwanatha Basadi are two other temples dedicated to Shantinatha and Adinatha.

Located just below Bennegudda are the ruins of the old city, littered with broken remains of carved rocks. It is an Archeological Survey site that hosts remains of three temples, of which only the pedestals and some friezes have survived. However, the carved mass of rocks littering the area around the temple is an evidence of the glory days that the kingdom had once witnessed. Today, creepers have grown over the rocks that were once caressed by the hands of the sculptor.

With their vast empire and rich architecture, the stories of Hoysala kings have become an important part of our history. Here in Halebeedu, every corner has something to remind us of the grand days of the great kingdom.

Getting There

Regular buses connecting Bangalore with Chikmaglur stop at Belur. Halebeedu is 15km from Belur, and can be reached with the help of local buses or auto rickshaw. If you are driving, drive past Hassan on Belur road till you reach Hagare Village. Turn right at Hagare and drive for another 7km to reach Halebeedu.

For more details, log on to www.travelwise.in for the Hoysala Trail

At a time when the world had long ago discovered the greens and blues of Kerala, the alluring backwaters of Alleppy and the warm beaches of Kovalam (and perhaps getting tired of the same images), director Maniratnam put a small spot in North Kerala on the map. Thanks to his evocative shots of lovers torn apart by a hostile world (in his movie ‘Bombay’), suddenly the rain-drenched ramparts of Bekal became one of the most romantic destinations within Kerala. It seemed the perfect rendezvous, hidden in the heart of Kerala and far from prying eyes. And the canny Kerala government seized this opportunity with both hands and suddenly, God’s own tiny country was officially larger on the tourist circuit.

Pic : Charu

We feel a rush of anticipation as we drive towards the fort, a visit that has been planned for many years about to materialize. At first glance, the Bekal fort is unassuming, especially after the excitement created by the plethora of signboards that guide you towards it, all the way from Mangalore to the North or Trivandrum deep down South. It sits lonely and tired at the edge of the waters. But as you make your way slowly to the top of the fort and then walk around the edges, seeing the Arabian Sea stretch out in front of you, the magic of the location sinks in.

There are groups of young girls in their bright salwar kameezes and school children in their staid uniforms inside the fort at the time we visit, adding noise and color to the otherwise peaceful scene. Still high in the sky, the sun is far from ready to call it a day and the sea is still rough though tiny boats are making their way bravely into the choppy waters. At Bekal beach nearby, crowds have already begun to troop in to watch the famous sunset on the Arabian Sea, and on top of the fort, young couples and families with small children have found themselves little corners from which to enjoy the evening breeze.

Pic : Charu

The fort seems to rise majestically from the sea itself, the waves washing over its walls the way they have done for centuries now. Bekal fort is made of the stuff that signifies unfulfilled romance, secret yearnings and patient waiting. Looking at the way it stands tolerantly weathering the torrid rains of August and the white heat of May, it makes me wonder how many such lovers the fort by the sea has seen.

A short history of the fort

The fort in Bekal is considered the largest in Kerala, spread over 40 acres, and certainly the best preserved. It was built by Sivappa Naik sometime in the 1650s and is known for its defence architecture, which includes cunningly placed holes in the walls of the fort that aim at different points and distances; the holes at top meant for aiming far into the sea while the ones below to catch the enemy as they approach closer.

Pic : Charu

The fort was later captured by Hyder Ali of Mysore in the late 18^th century and then Tipu Sultan, under whom it served most as a defence citadel, especially during his march down South to capture the Malabar province. Recent excavations at the fort have brought to light different kinds of religious structures within the fort from the time of Tipu Sultan’s reign, including a darbar hall and temples, revealing the secular nature of his regime. Once Tipu Sultan fell, the fort passed into the hands of the British, when Bekal became the headquarters of the newly created Bekal taluk in the South Canara district. The decline of the fort began when South Canara district came under Madras province, and Kasarod taluk was established as the regional headquarters in place of Bekal. Today, the Archeological Survey of India maintains it, along with the Kerala Government which is doing a lot to promote the fort, and the region itself as a major tourist attraction.

Apart from Bekal fort which is today the most popular spot in the region, there are several other attractions in Kasargod which make it one of the more interesting regions in Kerala for tourists today. Kasargod is the northern-most district of Kerala, just South of Mangalore and culturally, has the feel of both Karnataka and Kerala. Similarly, there is also a lot of remaining influence from the Muslim rule, which flourishes peacefully with the rest of the Hindu and Christian communities who are part of the region. The entire area has a charming laid-back atmosphere which is not yet exposed to the overwhelming crowds of the rest of the state.

Pic : Charu

Water, water, everywhere…

If Bekal is Kasargod’s most famous landmark, I would say Nileshwaram is its best kept secret. There is nothing spectacular about the town itself; it lies 30 km to the South of Bekal by the banks of the Nileshwaram river. The town seems to have sprouted organically along the National Highway 17, with houses and small shops lining both sides of the road. We stayed at Nalanda Resorts in Nileshwaram, with rooms facing the placid river. It was early in the morning, on a boat ride on the river that we discovered the magic of life on and by the river.

Cruising slowly down the shallow river, only the steady hum of the motor boat to break the silence of dawn, we watched the town come to life, lazily stretching its arms towards a new day. A man walks, lonely and thoughtful on the bridge, the sun just climbing high in the sky just behind him. Fishermen are at work, busy in their own worlds, while other men in similar boats scout the river for silt. Our boatman explains that the sand from the shallow river is used in construction all over the region. Tiny birds are sitting on electric wires stretched across the river, flying away noisily at the sound of our approaching boat.

Pic : Charu

Thankfully, even today, Bekal fort or even the region of Kasargod is not as crowded with tourists as the South of the state is. Add to this good infrastructure and facilities, a combination that spells holiday heaven. For those tired of the well-publicized image of swinging palms and kettuvallams of South Kerala, here is the ideal getaway solution. This is the perfect place for anyone with a secret in his / her heart. And that is you and me and everyone else.

The Virupaksha Temple dominates the Hampi skyline (such as it is) – it is one of the first things you spot as you cross the small Ganesha temples and turn the corner down into the steep path that leads to Hampi bazaar at a distance. Walk away from it towards Matanga hill, turn from anywhere on the road, or from the steps that lead towards Achutaraya temple on the other side, and you see the tower on the other end of the road, tall and proud or peeking out from somewhere between pillars. Ditto when you visit the small Ganesha temples.

Pic : Charukesi

Or when you climb up Hemakuta hill, dotted with fifty odd small temples, the perfect place to spend a peaceful evening. Alternatively, stay in any of the small guest-houses in the bazaar area and find yourself staring at the gopura during breakfast from the mandatory roof-top restaurant of the place, or stare at the glorious silhouette of the temple tower in the evening as the sky turns colors before the sun finally sets for the day. Everywhere you turn in Hampi, you catch a glimpse of the Virupaksha temple.

Pics : Charukesi

In a town where all temples and places built by the Vijayanagar dynasty are now in ruins, the Virupaksha temple stands in amazingly good condition. Our guide Lokesh “full name Lokabhirama but too long to confusing” tells us that the Muslim invaders who destroyed most of Hampi, spared this temple on seeing the symbol of a boar (along with a sword and something else that I cannot remember now) etched on the wall near the entrance of the temple. Think of it – the invaders couldn’t have been all that clever if all it needed to keep them at bay was a boar in stone – nor for that matter, were the architects and builders very clever – why aren’t there more stone boars in temples, I say?

Pic : Charukesi

Now guides will be guides and invaders will be invaders and all that, so I have no idea how true this story is, but whatever the reason, the Virupaksha temple has survived through the centuries. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, or Pampapati (the husband of Pampa, or the goddess Bhuvaneshwari), this temple was built sometime in the early 15th century, and further renovated in the sixteenth century by Krishnadevaraya.

Pics : Charukesi

While the temple is aesthetically a marvellous example of the architecture of those times, the highlight is a small dark room at the Western end, way behind the main tower. Here, in the mornings, you get to see an inverted image of the main gopura (tower) on a wall, as light falls through a small window. The pinhole camera concept, explains our guide, as he moves his hand in front of the small window, thus altering the size of the inverted shadow on the wall.

Pics : Charukesi

And just outside, on your way back to the main gate are monkeys drinking milk straight out of plastic milk covers and the temple elephant, who gobbles up the bananas you offer and imparts his blessings only when money changes hands. There is also the pied-piper of Virupaksha, the old man who blows this long horn and poses for your camera, all for a small fee. You exit the temple straight into Hampi bazaar, with its “recommended in Lonely Planet” restaurants and little hand carts and stalls selling everything from cheap plastic-ware to the ubiquitous “ethnic” Rajasthani handbags. Alternatively, you can turn left just outside the temple and reach the banks of the Tungabhadra, it a lovely walk by the riverside.

Pics : Charukesi

And finally, straight from the heart, why I love Hampi so much and dream of returning…

Pics : Charukesi

Ajantha caves, famous for its murals, are the finest surviving examples of Indian art, particularly painting. They were excavated (circa. 2nd century B.C. to 6th century A.D.) in the shape of a horseshoe, overlooking a narrow stream known as Waghora and each cave was connected to the stream by a flight of steps, which are now almost obliterated. The caves attained the name from a nearby village named Ajanta. Apparently, these caves were discovered by an Army Officer in the Madras Regiment of the British Army in 1819 during one of his hunting expeditions.

Pic : Deepak A

Totally, 30 excavations were hewn out of rock including an unfinished one. The earliest excavations belong to the Hinayana phase of Buddhism. These caves are datable to the pre-Christian era, the earliest among them being Cave 10 dating from the second century B.C.The object of worship is a stupa and these caves exhibit the imitation of wooden construction to the extent that the rafters and beams are also sculpted even though they are non-functional.

Everything about Sanchi can be described in a single word, simply splendid. Be it the beautiful descriptions on the four gates of the stupas or the famour Ashoka pillar or even the remains of the educational institute, everything in this place radiates a calmness invoking the divine presence. I spent some wonderful hours on a winter Sunday morning watching my mind completely bewitched by the radiance of Sanchi. Now, a world heritage centra, Sanchi Stupa is a grandeur in itself! The historians say that though Sanchi Stupa was built by Emperor Ashoka, it’s hardly mentioned in any of the doctrines. Stupa was built by emperor Ashoka around third century BC and Lord Buddha lived in 5th century BC. Its believed that Lord Buddha never visited Sanchi.

The Hill of Sanchi is situated about 9 kilometres south-west of Vidisha in Madhaya Pradesh, India. Crowning the hilltop of Sanchi nearly 91 metres in height, a group of Buddhist monuments commands a grand view even from a distance. It is unique not only in its having the most perfect and well-preserved stupas but also in its offering a wide and educative field for the study of the genesis, efflorescence and decay of Buddhist art and architecture for a period of about thirteen hundred years, from the third century B.C. to the twelfth century, A.D., almost covering the whole range of Indian Buddhism.

Pic : Medhini Seshadri

Read the full story