CLAY wishes all its readers a Happy Ganesh Chaturthi .  The spirit of the festival can be experienced on the streets as people queue up to bring home the Ganesha. A finishing touch is applied here and there as some of the Ganeshas are covered in plastic sheets,waiting for their turn to be sold. Lining up the streets of  Bangalore and watching the traffic whiz past themare massive and minute forms of the deity gracing the crowds . Here is a photo feature capturing the essence of the festival from the  streets.

As we got out of the car, the metal sculptures on the gate was what greeted us. We were at the Garden of Five Senses. A park in Saidul Ajaib village, near the Mehrauli heritage area in Delhi. You cant really call it a park, its not a garden nor is it just a center for fun…

There are plenty of trees and plants scattered through the vast space, there are interesting sculptures around every corner. Once you enter the gates, all you see is open space, and plenty of it, stretching far beyond the eye can see..

The sculptures have are all a symbol of modern art, created by master craftsmen…  Amongst the innumerable marvelous pieces are a few in  terracotta and stainless steel ..

One of which reminded me of a pinwheel, one with bells around every tier and another that reminded me of the paper fan we get in the beaches….

The leaves and bells seem to flutters with every gush of wind and creates one in hearts too. They were beautiful.. The beauty is that all these are scattered and you will have to walk around the winding lanes, through quite a plethora of flora…

The other unique piece of art here is the row of children sitting for class. It is so life like, that we had to literally walk near the sculptures to make sure they were made of stone… Wow, it was fascinating….

Walking around the park, we spotted a row of stones arranged like stairs that led to an amphitheater… On the other side were a few colorful pieces that resembled children’s play area and we also discovered a cafe and a few boutique stores…

Spare yourself a couple of hours to wander the space and enjoy the sights and sounds… But watch your step, cos you never know if you are going up or down in the Garden of Five senses…
Its been about 3yrs since i was here.. wonder what kind of changes have happened… If you do visit, let me know how it is now

When I took the flight to visit Sikkim, I had only two main things on my mind.

First, to meet eight fascinating travel enthusiasts and second; a possibility of visiting Nathu-La Pass (India-China border, altitude 14,420 feet), the much alluring Indo-China border if the weather God obliged us. Sikkim, I thought would be yet another touristy hill station and so I was more interested in something beyond the usual.

The day we started for Nathu la pass the sun was shining, the weather was awesome and our two vehicles took us through the inviting mountains. The route is very pleasant but if you are not lucky enough to have a good driver, he can make your journey a veritable hell.
Our driver Anil was calm, soft spoken and handled the vehicle well. He also kept us enlightened about local food and people, especially the ones he deals with everyday on the route.

One of the traffic jams.

At places the roads are still single lane and we could see vehicles patiently waiting at long traffic jams. The traffic along the route was much more sensible & behaved than we see in our urban cities. At many places I saw Indian army personnel controlling the flow of the traffic or repairing the roads.

But we, the travelers were so smitten by the surrounding beauty that we took the jams as a good opportunity to click a few shots. The moment our vehicles stopped at any such juncture, all of us were seen rushing out with our respective cameras just like young kids coming out of school at the strike of the final bell.

We passed through picturesque Tsongo Lake, a meandering mountain river, and a number of valleys covered with multi coloured flora and sometimes landslides too !
Stopped at Kyongnosla, a check point. While we enjoyed hot cups of tea/coffee along with momos & boiled potato chaat, the car drivers did the job of sorting out the permit process.

The place had a small market and on the backside down the hill there were some houses and some army bunkers which made an intriguing pattern. I could see local people occupied with their activities … the shopkeepers selling woollen gears & eatables to tourists, children playing and women in household chores which included keeping pickle bottles out in the sun.

Here, I could sense the thinness of air and yes, this break also served as a first level of acclimatization.

Winding road near the peak.

Beautiful mountains, awesome company, skilled patient driver who did not try to imitate any Formula One racecar driver and the music; what else one could ask for?

Mera Bharat Mahan.

After around four hours we were finally at Nathu La pass and at that height what would you expect than cold and fog? The temperature was about -3 degrees Centigrade and there was a strong cold wind blowing into our faces. It had snowed last night and traces of fresh snow were visible. To say the least it was an exhilarating experience. Nathu La is a wonderful place to behold the nature’s splendor and emanates some kind of aura.

As we ascended the steps, we were suitably awed by the awe inspiring scene. For some moments we did not talk to each other.
We were literally at the border of India and China. Nathu La pass, even though a border area, does not have a “no mans land” normally found in border areas. Here border consists of just a barbed wire and two armies guarding their side of the land.

Chinese soldiers across the barbed wire.

People were busy getting themselves photographed with the soldiers who readily agreed. We were no different.

But there was a sense of apprehension and exhilaration at the same time. You cannot but feel grateful to those soldiers who brave that kind of weather and living conditions to fight for, & protect our lives.
I spoke to a few Indian soldiers and they opened their heart. Seemed it was the only channel for them to be closer to common man. Warm and kind, some of them were waiting for their annual leave to be home with their families.

Indian tricolor flying high in gloomy weather.

Looking at the majestic tricolor I wondered how many of us could really do anything other than admiring the armed forces of both sides that stand without fear of sun or rain to guard their countries.

Return journey was more of a retrospection for me. We stopped for a late lunch on our way back and after satiating our stomachs with of hot maggi and fried rice it was time to enjoy the music inside and admire the quietness outside our vehicles.

Here is a short video of our return journey.
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Ganpati Bappa Morya’ is what you will hear in Mumbai, during the festival period of Ganesh Chaturthi which lasts upto a period of 12days. Ganpati is the most loved God and is invoked prior to the beginning of any task for his blessings.

This festival today is celebrated across all castes and classes. Till 1892, this was a private celebration in peoples’ homes but ever since Lokmanya Tilak recognized the wide appeal of the deity Ganesh as “the God for everybody”, he popularized Ganesh Chaturthi as a national festival in order to bridge the gap between various communities and to build a new grassroots unity between them to generate nationalistic fervor among people in Maharashtra against the British colonial rule.

Two to three months prior to Ganesh Chaturthi, artistic clay models of Lord Ganesha are made for sale by skilled artisans.

They are beautifully decorated and depict Lord Ganesh in various poses. The size of these statues may vary from 3/4th of an inch to over 25 feet.

Ganesh Chaturthi starts with the installation of these Ganesh statues in colorfully decorated homes and specially erected temporary structures mandapas (pandals) in every locality. The pandals are erected by the people of a specific society or locality or group by collecting monetary contributions from the devotees.

For 10 days, from Bhadrapad Shudh Chaturthi to the Ananta Chaturdashi, Ganesha is worshipped. On the 11th day, the statue is taken through the streets in a procession accompanied with dancing, singing, and fanfare to be immersed. At individual homes the Visarjan is also done on 3rd, 5th or 7th day as per the family tradition

Today, the Ganesh Festival is not only a popular festival, it has become a very critical and important economic activity for Maharashtra. Many artists, industries, and businesses survive on this mega-event.

Standing on the top of Bennegudda hill, there is something interesting to see in every direction. Spread to the north are the ruins of ancient city of Dwarasamudra and remains of its temples of stone. To the east is the famed Hoysaleshwara Temple and the large lake that attract travellers in drones from all over the world. To the south, not far from Hoysaleshwara Temple, is another complex of finely carved structures of stone that have weathered the times. Finally, to the west is an open expanse of villages and fields, with tall hills of western ghats visible in the horizon. The hills are so far away that their fading ridges seem to merge into the sky.

The city of Dwarasamudra that once encompassed Bennegudda was built by the kings of thousand-year old Hoysala Kingdom. The Hoysala dynasty came into existence in a time when the Chalukya Kings dominated the northern parts of Karnataka, while a struggle was on between the Cholas and Gangas for dominion in the south. The ancestors of the Hoysalas joined hands with the Gangas in the war against Cholas, and eventually built their own kingdom on the edge of Malnad region. They established their capital at Dwarasamudra in later half of eleventh century, now called Halebeedu. Their kingdom spread as far as Madurai in south and Lakkundi in the north as they grew stronger over generations. In the days of their prime, Vishnuvardhana, the Hoysala king who ruled in the first half of twelfth century, defeated the Cholas in Talakadu and supported construction of ornate temples of stone all along his kingdom. Many of these temples have survived even today as the evidence of a time when craft of carving excelled.

The Hoysaleshwara temple in Halebeedu is one of the finest examples of their architecture. The two shrines in the star shaped temple are dedicated to Hoysaleshwara and Shantalaeshwara, named after the king and the queen. Heavily decorated outer walls have eleven layers of friezes at the bottom, with rows of distinctly carved elephants, lions, horses, the mythical creature makara and stories from the puranas. One of those stories shows the gods and demons churning the ocean using Serpant Vasuki coiled around the mountain of Manadara. In another sculpture, Bheema is depicted going to after the enemy troupes in the war of Kurukshetra, killing elephants and piling them up on his way. Above the friezes are four-feet high statues of gods and goddesses carved to such a precision that even fingernails, teeth and lines on the hands can be identified clearly.

The best sculptures are seen on the south door of the temple, which was used by the king and the royal family. The door keepers here are framed to a fine detail, with every bead in their ornament highlighted distinctly. To the east are two Nandi Mantapas, each of them facing a deity of the temple. The Nandis are the sixth and seventh largest statues of the bull in the country.

South of Hoysaleshwara temple is the smaller Kedareshwara temple, which shares architectural elements with its neighbour. While the former is buzzing with activity of tour groups and guides, Kedareshwara Temple has a deserted calm, allowing the visitor to explore at one’s own pace.

On the way to Kedareshwara Temple is Bastihalli, a small hamlet that houses three Jain Temples dating back to the days of King Vishnuvardhana. The highlight of Parshwanatha Basadi, the largest of the three, is a mantapa with an array thick cylindrical pillars. Inside the temple is a 16-feet high statue of Parswanatha standing in the shade of a five headed serpent. The roof of the main hall hosts small statues of the twenty four tirthankaras. Besides Parshwanatha Basadi are two other temples dedicated to Shantinatha and Adinatha.

Located just below Bennegudda are the ruins of the old city, littered with broken remains of carved rocks. It is an Archeological Survey site that hosts remains of three temples, of which only the pedestals and some friezes have survived. However, the carved mass of rocks littering the area around the temple is an evidence of the glory days that the kingdom had once witnessed. Today, creepers have grown over the rocks that were once caressed by the hands of the sculptor.

With their vast empire and rich architecture, the stories of Hoysala kings have become an important part of our history. Here in Halebeedu, every corner has something to remind us of the grand days of the great kingdom.

Getting There

Regular buses connecting Bangalore with Chikmaglur stop at Belur. Halebeedu is 15km from Belur, and can be reached with the help of local buses or auto rickshaw. If you are driving, drive past Hassan on Belur road till you reach Hagare Village. Turn right at Hagare and drive for another 7km to reach Halebeedu.

For more details, log on to www.travelwise.in for the Hoysala Trail

The Virupaksha Temple dominates the Hampi skyline (such as it is) – it is one of the first things you spot as you cross the small Ganesha temples and turn the corner down into the steep path that leads to Hampi bazaar at a distance. Walk away from it towards Matanga hill, turn from anywhere on the road, or from the steps that lead towards Achutaraya temple on the other side, and you see the tower on the other end of the road, tall and proud or peeking out from somewhere between pillars. Ditto when you visit the small Ganesha temples.

Pic : Charukesi

Or when you climb up Hemakuta hill, dotted with fifty odd small temples, the perfect place to spend a peaceful evening. Alternatively, stay in any of the small guest-houses in the bazaar area and find yourself staring at the gopura during breakfast from the mandatory roof-top restaurant of the place, or stare at the glorious silhouette of the temple tower in the evening as the sky turns colors before the sun finally sets for the day. Everywhere you turn in Hampi, you catch a glimpse of the Virupaksha temple.

Pics : Charukesi

In a town where all temples and places built by the Vijayanagar dynasty are now in ruins, the Virupaksha temple stands in amazingly good condition. Our guide Lokesh “full name Lokabhirama but too long to confusing” tells us that the Muslim invaders who destroyed most of Hampi, spared this temple on seeing the symbol of a boar (along with a sword and something else that I cannot remember now) etched on the wall near the entrance of the temple. Think of it – the invaders couldn’t have been all that clever if all it needed to keep them at bay was a boar in stone – nor for that matter, were the architects and builders very clever – why aren’t there more stone boars in temples, I say?

Pic : Charukesi

Now guides will be guides and invaders will be invaders and all that, so I have no idea how true this story is, but whatever the reason, the Virupaksha temple has survived through the centuries. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, or Pampapati (the husband of Pampa, or the goddess Bhuvaneshwari), this temple was built sometime in the early 15th century, and further renovated in the sixteenth century by Krishnadevaraya.

Pics : Charukesi

While the temple is aesthetically a marvellous example of the architecture of those times, the highlight is a small dark room at the Western end, way behind the main tower. Here, in the mornings, you get to see an inverted image of the main gopura (tower) on a wall, as light falls through a small window. The pinhole camera concept, explains our guide, as he moves his hand in front of the small window, thus altering the size of the inverted shadow on the wall.

Pics : Charukesi

And just outside, on your way back to the main gate are monkeys drinking milk straight out of plastic milk covers and the temple elephant, who gobbles up the bananas you offer and imparts his blessings only when money changes hands. There is also the pied-piper of Virupaksha, the old man who blows this long horn and poses for your camera, all for a small fee. You exit the temple straight into Hampi bazaar, with its “recommended in Lonely Planet” restaurants and little hand carts and stalls selling everything from cheap plastic-ware to the ubiquitous “ethnic” Rajasthani handbags. Alternatively, you can turn left just outside the temple and reach the banks of the Tungabhadra, it a lovely walk by the riverside.

Pics : Charukesi

And finally, straight from the heart, why I love Hampi so much and dream of returning…

Pics : Charukesi

I am yet to find another city that flaunts its varied cultural heritage with such unabashedness as Bhubaneswar, also called the temple city of India.

Bhubaneswar, the capital city of Orissa is a pleasant blend of progressive development and cultural worship. This mindset of the city is evident seeing its meticulously painted murals scattered all across the city.

Pic : Ravi Kumar

With the initiative of Bhubaneswar Municipal Corporation, the quaint and laid back city is draped neatly with its own cultural fabric. Each of these murals speak a story by itself and bear testimony to its kaleidoscopic rich tradition, be it the tribal life, monuments, festivals, delicacies, dance, and folk lore. The murals are painted across wide roads, government office walls, parks and flyovers and are a delight for unprepared eyes. The murals are hand paintings drawn withvaried colours in accordance to different themes.

Pic : Ravi Kumar

Converting neglected dilapidated walls into pieces of cultural exhibits, makes you admire them with awe. The novel idea has revived the dying art of mural painters and brought them to mainstream.

Pic : Ravi Kumar

These murals of Bhubaneswar are a fine example of sustainable solution of preserving cultural heritage along with modern growth.

Pic : Ravi Kumar

If you happen to visit the city, spare some time to marvel at these paintings

Think Hampi and the images that come to our mind are the ruins of the Vijaynagar empire with beautiful monuments strewn around the erstwhile capital town. On a hot sunny day, we travelled to Hampi and beyond. Our quest was not to celebrate the Hampi Utsav, but to look for the Indian Sloth Bear in “Daroji Bear Santuary”. Located in Bellary district and just 15 kms away Hampi, this wildlife sanctuary gives the town another identity besides mining and heritage.

Pic : Gowreesh K

Karnataka state government declared 5,587 acres of Bilikallu Reserve Forest as Daroji Bear Sanctuary in 1994 to protect the bear. The sloth bear population is today estimated about 120. They live in the naturally formed caves in the rocky mountains which are surrounded by dense forest.

Pic : Gowreesh K

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