K.Gudi expands to Kyatadevara Gudi, named for a tribal deity who has a temple here. This is a small hamlet about 20 Kms from B.R.Hills. This place is a discovery of the erstwhile Maharaja of Mysore, who found it a convenient location to build hunting lodge. This structure stands here till date, of course, after some renovation, and is now the main reception and office of Jungle Lodges and Resorts, who have built one of their eco-friendly lodges here. Today, this place is part of the BRT Wildlife Sanctuary – the Belligiri Rangaswamy Temple Sanctuary – and is one of the few places in India where you can stay inside the sanctuary itself, with the full permission of the concerned authorities. Right opposite the lodge is the forest department guest house, also an old structure, now renovated, but dating back to the British era, believed by some to be haunted!!!!

We were welcomed on our arrival at the resort by Mr. Narayan, who is the naturalist at the resort. One who grew up in a village on the banks of the Kabini, Narayan has a close relationship with the flora and fauna of the area and was extremely helpful as well as informative. Samhith was thrilled to hear that we would be leaving after lunch for our first jungle safari, and that we would be going for one every morning and afternoon. However, what captured his attention was a pair of elephants in the lodge, one of which was bathing in a lake just outside the resort. It was the first time that I saw an elephant bathing, and it was a wonderful sight. I couldn’t stop taking photographs!!!

There are about 8 tented cottages and 3 log huts available at the resort. There are also a few well appointed rooms at the hunting lodge which also houses as the main office. We had tried to book one of the log huts, but even more than 3 months back, they were all booked, and we had to settle for the last tent available. However, staying in the tented cottage itself was a wonderful experience. Two easy chairs outside beckoned us, and inside, it was roomy and contained a double bed and a couple of tables and clothes-hanger. A door behind the tent led to a large bathroom. Very basic, but sufficient and comfortable. We were warned to strictly keep the door closed at all times, for the area was full of monkeys who wouldn’t hesitate to take over our room at the slightest chance.

We were ready at 4 PM after lunch and a short siesta for tea and an introductory talk given by Narayan. He spoke about the lodge, its history, and the kind of animals that made the forest their home. He was very clear, and emphasized that we wouldn’t see all the animals, but only some, and that too, with a bit of luck. An interesting and encouraging thing was a list on a whiteboard right outside, which listed all the sightings of animals in the last 2 weeks. It was extremely encouraging to note that leopards had been seen no less than 6 times, and a tiger had been sighted twice. He specifically asked everyone present not to use the flash during taking photographs. It was only then that I realized that I had no idea how to switch off the flash in my camera, and he happily obliged. We set off in an open jeep for the safari.

I suppose the most important factor in a safari is luck. We saw a number of deer – spotted deer (Chital), barking deer and S?mbhar. However, the most interesting animal we saw was a herd of Bison (Gaur). They were returning from a water hole, and obliged us by standing still for a few minutes. Lady luck parted from us at this point, for we just missed seeing a couple of leopards which were seen by people in the jeep before us. The driver alerted our driver through the wireless, but by the time we reached the place, they were gone, and didn’t return.

We returned from the safari, feeling cold to the point of shivering. Coming from Ooty, we felt that it wouldn’t be too cold, and thinking we could bear the slight chill, we had neglected to carry our woolen clothes for the safari. The temperature in the higher reaches of the forest soon chilled us to our bones, and we decided never to venture out again without sweaters. Tea and snacks at the lodge proved to be welcome, and a documentary on the Cobra kept us entertained.

Incidentally, I must mention that the lodge is powered by solar power, and in the winter, thanks to the sun being invisible most of the time, electricity is limited, and is confined to the times of absolute necessity. The lights come on in the morning at 6 AM, acting as a wake-up call, and stay just ling enough for us to get dressed and ready for the morning safari. After that, the electric supply is restricted to the office every evening, the lights come on at 7 PM, when a wildlife documentary is screened, and stays on till 9 or 9:30 PM. The geyser and the main light are operated centrally, so as to minimize wastage. We had to use the power supply in the office for charging my camera batteries and chose to leave our cell phones un-charged. We thus were totally unreachable, a wonderful feeling!

We were woken up the next morning by the light coming on at 6 AM, followed almost at once by one of the staff with hot tea and coffee. In a few minutes, we were dressed, and ready for our second venture into the forest. This time, we were welcomed by a mother and baby elephant, who moved closer to the bushes as we approached, but otherwise showed no great fear of us, the two legged creatures, aliens in their land. We only saw a few other deer on this trip, and returned rather disappointed to the lodge.

Breakfast was ready when we returned, and we happily tucked in, surprisingly hungry, for we hadn’t done anything but sit in the jeep! At 9:30, we were told to go to the lake, where we would go for an elephant ride, the next programme on our itinerary. We had to wait fir our turn, for there were a number of youngsters who had hastened there, looking forward to the ride. Samhith was getting restless at the long wait, and they volunteered to take him along, at which he was absolutely thrilled! He went with a family with a number of kids, and was rewarded with the sight of a snake slithering into a hole. We went next, and he came along with us too and excitedly pointed to the place where the snake had disappeared, but we were not as lucky, and the snake never re-appeared.

We hung around the lake for some time after the ride, looking at the various birds which came looking for fish, and we noticed a Brahminy kite flying overhead. After a few trials, I managed to take a photograph. How do I know the name of the kite? Well, in the resort, every cottage is marked, not by a number, but by a board with a bird on it. Well, our tent had the Brahminy kite on it, which is why I was able to identify this one bird at least.

Our next expedition was to the temple which lends its name to the whole range of mountains, and also to the sanctuary – the Belligiri Rangaswamy temple. This temple in BR Hills is 20 Kms from K.Gudi, and we went by jeep through the highway which wends its way through the jungle. Just before we started, there was a commotion among the monkeys and heard some noise which, we were told was the alarm sound of the barking deer. It meant that there was a predator nearby. We went looking for it, but were unlucky once more, and decided to go straight to the temple.

This temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in the form of Rangaswamy in a standing posture. It is believed that this idol was installed by Sage Vaishtha and some other rishis. Ages ago, a devotee felt that the lord’s feet would hurt since he resided in a thick jungle and decided to offer him sandals. This has, over time, become a custom here, and there are a pair of sandals (Padukas) beautifully decorated with zari and semi-precious stones offered to the lord by his devotees. Another, older pair is kept outside and is used to bless devotees by placing them on his/her head. The name Belligiri comes from the word “White Mountain”, for the stone on which the Lord rests is white.

After lunch, it was time for a safari once more, and we started, taking care to wear our sweaters this time. We hadn’t been in the jungle for even 15 minutes, when we came across a female elephant. She was standing among the bushes near the road, waving her trunk to and fro. To our surprise, our driver totally stopped the jeep, and we saw another jeep approaching from the opposite side of the road. Neither jeep tried to move, which kept us wondering, till we saw the elephant charge towards us. The driver was obviously expecting this, for he moved backwards, which seemed to reassure her. She then tried the same thing with the other jeep, and they too moved backwards. We wondered why she was so agitated, but then we saw a baby elephant approaching from the bushes. So this was the mother and baby we had seen in the morning, and now we saw how protective the mother was, of her baby, as she gently guided her child towards the other side of the road, flanking him/her first on this side and then the other, pushing him/her forward all the time. It made me think of Samhith and how I still have to help him cross a road, guiding him, making sure he doesn’t get hurt, keeping my eyes watchful. A mother after all, is always a mother, whether human or animal. I was happy to have seen this touching scene, for we didn’t see many more animals on this trip, except the inevitable deer.

This evening, the documentary was a feature shot at Nagarhole, and it mainly concerned elephants, and how modernization and take over of forest land has affected them. I couldn’t help think of the mother-child pair we saw, and wondered what would become of them. The falling temperature made us move towards the campfire, which is lit every evening before dinner, in a small area adjoining the hut where lunch and dinner are served.

The next morning would be our last at the resort, and we woke early for our jaunt into the jungle. Shankar had opted to go for a trek rather than the safari, and I headed with Samhith towards the jeep. If only Samhith was a little older, we too could have gone for the trek! I wish he would grow up soon!!! By this time, I had given up all hopes of seeing anything interesting in the forest. We were so bored of seeing deer, the driver no longer stopped for us to take photos when we came across a herd. Now Samhith can identify not only the spotted deer, but also S?mbhar as well as barking deer. We had already seen a number of wild boars in the resort, but this time, we came across a large group with some of the biggest ones we had seen so far. However, there were two interesting things we came across this time. The first was a herd of elephants which included the mother-child pair we had seen the day before. Apart from them, there was an old elephant, obviously the matriarch of the herd, another female, and a lone male which had huge tusks. They weren’t too scared of us this time, probably because they were in their group and felt secure, but the matriarch kept an eye on us as she munched on the grass, and the mother gently pushed her child towards the bushes.

The only other interesting thing we saw on this is something I had never seen before – pugmarks of a leopard. We saw them on the mud-path on which the jeep moves, and the driver maneuvered his vehicle so that we wouldn’t erase them. While this time we felt lucky to see the tracks of the animal, the creature itself was elusive, and refused to appear before us. Well, we shall just have to try some other time.

While we didn’t really see many animals, this has been the closest to a real jungle I have ever been to. And what a jungle!! As Narayan himself informed us, this range of mountains is part of the migratory path of the animals from the Eastern to the Western Ghats, and sees a number of animals making this transit. Besides, the sanctuary covers a vast region comprising, mountains of different altitudes and valleys. The kind of flora and fauna seen here is amazing! While I am no expert and can hardly identify the various kinds of trees, even to my un-informed eyes, there is a variety in the landscape that I have never seen elsewhere. While some areas are full of bamboo and other tall grasses, some higher reaches are covered with trees like the eucalyptus. Some trees are green and have gaily covered flowers, in some areas, the flame of the forest is the only tree seen for miles. Some trees have red and yellow leaves which have just started to fall, while some others have completely shed their leaves, and stand bare, their silhouette showing up clearly against the rising/setting sun. I have brought back memories galore of my two days at this wonderful resort.

The Haleri Kings who ruled Coorg or Kodagu for over 200 years were Lingayats and their origin is traced to Veeraraja, a nephew of Sadashiva Nayaka of the Ikkeri Dynasty. . As the Vijaynagar empire crumbled, Veeraraja, who dreamt of establishing his own dynasty was looking to exploit the weakness of local kingdoms. His ambition took him to Kodagu which was then ruled by various Nayaks .

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

Disguised as a “jangama “ or a priest with healing power, he established a small group of followers in Haleri . He slowly overthrew the local Nayaks , including the formidable Karenbahu of Bhagamandala and Talacauvery and went on to become the lord of Kodugu with Haleri as capital .His grandson, Mudduraja later changed the capital to Madikeri and the dynasty ruled from the 17th century to the 19th century.

The Madikeri fort is today one of the few symbols of this powerful dynasty. It was eventually rebuilt in granite by Tippu Sultan who named the site as Jaffarabad.It was recaptured by the Haleri ruler Doddaveer Rajendra in the 18th century and it later fell into the hands of the British who renamed it as Mercara . Today the fort houses a palace, a temple, a chapel, a prison and a museum where you can see hero stones or virakkals among other things.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

We embarked on the trail of this dynasty. Further away from the city is Gaddige or the Raja’s tombs, which are the Samadhis of the kings Doddaveerarajendra and Lingarajendra. A solemn air hung around and it was deserted almost but for a few boys who were playing cricket. The tombs of the divans and army commanders were also placed here. The domes and the minarets at four corners mounted by carved bulls stand tall against the sky.

The sun was setting and a mist threatened to rob the sun of its last few moments of glory . We headed to Raja’s Seat to watch the tussle. This popular tourist spot which boasts of scenic views was the seat of the royalty to admire nature.and also throw probably to throw their enemies down the hill.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

A visit to Madikeri is never complete without a visit to the.19th century Omkareshwar temple built by Lingarajendra II dedicated to Shiva. Built in the Indo Sarcenic style, it has elements of Gothic and Islamic architecture as well and it is said that there could have been a secret passage below that leads to the palace of the king.

We drove towards Virajpet – one of the key towns and erstwhile capital named after Virarajendra, the Haleri king . It is said that Dodda Veerarajendra established the town in the 18th century to commemorate his meeting with the British General Abercrombie during their joint war against Tippu Sultan .

Virajpet which is just 30 kms from Madikeri is an important town today for coffee and spices and the St Anne’s Church and Clock tower stand tall, today reminiscent of the colonial era . The interesting aspect is that Virajpet was once an amalgamation of various communities such as Telugus,Tamilians, Malayalis, Bunts, Moplas, Christians,Brahmins and even Bengalis.Even today you can see streets like Bengali Street, Telugu street going by the cosmopolitan nature of the town that housed several communities..

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

We then went in search of a small palace where the Haleri Dyansty came to an end .Our trail ended in a small hamlet called Yavakapadi in Kakkabe where Nalknad Aramane built by Dodda Veerarajendra in the 18th century awaited us .

There were coffee plantations all around. A small mud road appeared out of no where .A beautiful two storey structure painted in red with a tiled roof, old wall paintings and pillars gazed at us as we opened the portals of the palace. A small mandapa in white was located close by. A drizzle started as we heard a sound behind us. A caretaker had silently moved in and was opening the main door for us. We were the only visitors. As we soaked in the moment, we were given a capsule of history .

During one of the wars with Tipu Sultan, Dodda Veerarajendra had to retreat and he came to this dense forest. He converted it as an operation base and built a palace and even got married here . This palace was the final refuge of the last king , Chikkaveerarajendra before he was deposed by the British and it symbolised the end of the Haleri dynasty .The caretaker showed us around as we climbed a small ladder , saw the hidden chamber in the roof , the torture room, the royal bedrooms and the main.durbar

It was ironic that the Haleri kings who had befriended the British to fight Tipu Sultan was finally deposed by the Europeans. As we walked back, we saw a few tourists who had just returned from their trek toThadiyandamole . The sun had set as we walked back to our homestay, wondering how this silent monument would have once been a scene of battles fought and won.

The article was published in the Deccan Herald recently.A guided tour of Coorg will be launched soon and the details will be available here.

The city of Dwarasamudra that once encompassed Bennegudda was built by the kings of thousand-year old Hoysala Kingdom. The Hoysala dynasty came into existence in a time when the Chalukya Kings dominated the northern parts of Karnataka, while a struggle was on between the Cholas and Gangas for dominion in the south. The ancestors of the Hoysalas joined hands with the Gangas in the war against Cholas, and eventually built their own kingdom on the edge of Malnad region. They established their capital at Dwarasamudra in later half of eleventh century, now called Halebeedu. Their kingdom spread as far as Madurai in south and Lakkundi in the north as they grew stronger over generations. In the days of their prime, Vishnuvardhana, the Hoysala king who ruled in the first half of twelfth century, defeated the Cholas in Talakadu and supported construction of ornate temples of stone all along his kingdom. Many of these temples have survived even today as the evidence of a time when craft of carving excelled.

The Hoysaleshwara temple in Halebeedu is one of the finest examples of their architecture. The two shrines in the star shaped temple are dedicated to Hoysaleshwara and Shantalaeshwara, named after the king and the queen. Heavily decorated outer walls have eleven layers of friezes at the bottom, with rows of distinctly carved elephants, lions, horses, the mythical creature makara and stories from the puranas. One of those stories shows the gods and demons churning the ocean using Serpant Vasuki coiled around the mountain of Manadara. In another sculpture, Bheema is depicted going to after the enemy troupes in the war of Kurukshetra, killing elephants and piling them up on his way. Above the friezes are four-feet high statues of gods and goddesses carved to such a precision that even fingernails, teeth and lines on the hands can be identified clearly.

The best sculptures are seen on the south door of the temple, which was used by the king and the royal family. The door keepers here are framed to a fine detail, with every bead in their ornament highlighted distinctly. To the east are two Nandi Mantapas, each of them facing a deity of the temple. The Nandis are the sixth and seventh largest statues of the bull in the country.

South of Hoysaleshwara temple is the smaller Kedareshwara temple, which shares architectural elements with its neighbour. While the former is buzzing with activity of tour groups and guides, Kedareshwara Temple has a deserted calm, allowing the visitor to explore at one’s own pace.

On the way to Kedareshwara Temple is Bastihalli, a small hamlet that houses three Jain Temples dating back to the days of King Vishnuvardhana. The highlight of Parshwanatha Basadi, the largest of the three, is a mantapa with an array thick cylindrical pillars. Inside the temple is a 16-feet high statue of Parswanatha standing in the shade of a five headed serpent. The roof of the main hall hosts small statues of the twenty four tirthankaras. Besides Parshwanatha Basadi are two other temples dedicated to Shantinatha and Adinatha.

Located just below Bennegudda are the ruins of the old city, littered with broken remains of carved rocks. It is an Archeological Survey site that hosts remains of three temples, of which only the pedestals and some friezes have survived. However, the carved mass of rocks littering the area around the temple is an evidence of the glory days that the kingdom had once witnessed. Today, creepers have grown over the rocks that were once caressed by the hands of the sculptor.

With their vast empire and rich architecture, the stories of Hoysala kings have become an important part of our history. Here in Halebeedu, every corner has something to remind us of the grand days of the great kingdom.

Getting There

Regular buses connecting Bangalore with Chikmaglur stop at Belur. Halebeedu is 15km from Belur, and can be reached with the help of local buses or auto rickshaw. If you are driving, drive past Hassan on Belur road till you reach Hagare Village. Turn right at Hagare and drive for another 7km to reach Halebeedu.

For more details, log on to www.travelwise.in for the Hoysala Trail

Pic : Charukesi

Or when you climb up Hemakuta hill, dotted with fifty odd small temples, the perfect place to spend a peaceful evening. Alternatively, stay in any of the small guest-houses in the bazaar area and find yourself staring at the gopura during breakfast from the mandatory roof-top restaurant of the place, or stare at the glorious silhouette of the temple tower in the evening as the sky turns colors before the sun finally sets for the day. Everywhere you turn in Hampi, you catch a glimpse of the Virupaksha temple.

Pics : Charukesi

In a town where all temples and places built by the Vijayanagar dynasty are now in ruins, the Virupaksha temple stands in amazingly good condition. Our guide Lokesh “full name Lokabhirama but too long to confusing” tells us that the Muslim invaders who destroyed most of Hampi, spared this temple on seeing the symbol of a boar (along with a sword and something else that I cannot remember now) etched on the wall near the entrance of the temple. Think of it – the invaders couldn’t have been all that clever if all it needed to keep them at bay was a boar in stone – nor for that matter, were the architects and builders very clever – why aren’t there more stone boars in temples, I say?

Pic : Charukesi

Now guides will be guides and invaders will be invaders and all that, so I have no idea how true this story is, but whatever the reason, the Virupaksha temple has survived through the centuries. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, or Pampapati (the husband of Pampa, or the goddess Bhuvaneshwari), this temple was built sometime in the early 15th century, and further renovated in the sixteenth century by Krishnadevaraya.

Pics : Charukesi

While the temple is aesthetically a marvellous example of the architecture of those times, the highlight is a small dark room at the Western end, way behind the main tower. Here, in the mornings, you get to see an inverted image of the main gopura (tower) on a wall, as light falls through a small window. The pinhole camera concept, explains our guide, as he moves his hand in front of the small window, thus altering the size of the inverted shadow on the wall.

Pics : Charukesi

And just outside, on your way back to the main gate are monkeys drinking milk straight out of plastic milk covers and the temple elephant, who gobbles up the bananas you offer and imparts his blessings only when money changes hands. There is also the pied-piper of Virupaksha, the old man who blows this long horn and poses for your camera, all for a small fee. You exit the temple straight into Hampi bazaar, with its “recommended in Lonely Planet” restaurants and little hand carts and stalls selling everything from cheap plastic-ware to the ubiquitous “ethnic” Rajasthani handbags. Alternatively, you can turn left just outside the temple and reach the banks of the Tungabhadra, it a lovely walk by the riverside.

Pics : Charukesi

And finally, straight from the heart, why I love Hampi so much and dream of returning…

Pics : Charukesi

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]]> http://www.clubmahindrablog.com/why-i-love-hampi/feed 6 http://www.clubmahindrablog.com/kodachadri-trek-moments-of-bliss http://www.clubmahindrablog.com/kodachadri-trek-moments-of-bliss#comments Tue, 10 Feb 2009 18:01:52 +0000 Ajeya Rao http://www.clubmahindrablog.com/?p=322 Kodachadri- Kodachadri is a mountain peak (altitude – 1343 m above sea level) in the Western Ghats middle of the Mookambika National Park.

Accommodation – We stayed at Bhatra house (Temple Priest’s House). The hall can accommodate a group of 20 and there are several small rooms too. But one needs to abide to the rules such as no alcohol ,smoking is not allowed and one has to wash the plates after eating. But the experience of staying with this family itself was worth the visit. An Inspection bungalow is the only other alternative; one of our colleagues had booked a room there and the toilets and bathroom came much of a help for us.

How to get there – From Bangalore, drive to Shivamoga; Shivamoga to Nagara and a deviation at Nagara towards Kollur; At Sampe katte turn left to reach the base camp. A shop at base camp can provide you tea and breakfast. We had to park the vehicle there; only jeeps ride up the mountain till Bhatra house which is 10Km from base camp. There is also another route through Nagodi forest check post, but it is a longer route.

I would like to recollect some of the special moments in the trip rather than giving detailed account. Let the pictures speak the rest.

Moment -1
Two days before our scheduled journey it was raining badly at Kodachadri. Bhatru told that we may not be able to stay it his place if it rained so. Off season rainfall had shattered our plan. But most of us came to a decision that we would go to the mountain in spite of the condition. Thankfully the rain stopped two days before our visit.

Moment -2
The hike itself was amazing. Even though we had to follow a jeep track, we did take off route trails. Due to the rainfall, the mountain was very green and beautiful. We had rice roti for breakfast. A colleague’s friend who lives in Sagara was nice enough to pack food for all of us from his home.

Moment -3
Midway between, I stopped for my friends to catch up. I sat alone midst the mountains watching the clouds flow from the valley and spread across. It was a beautiful sight. I penned down few thoughts in my journal.

Moment-4
The food at Bhatra house was amazing; Rice, S?mbhar and Thambuli (A dish made of butter milk and herbs). The jeep drivers play cards in the veranda. The women were busy cooking; the men had stories to share with visitors. It was interesting to notice that the jeep drivers and newspaper was the only means of communication with outer world for the Bhatra family.

Moment -5
My dialogue with Bhatru was interesting. In his talk he told how important it was for tourists to not just come to a place for its scenic beauty but also to experience the culture, the people, their tradition and their life style. I thoroughly enjoyed that talk.

Moment-6
The summit is 2 km hike from the Bhatra house. There is a Sarvagnya peeta (Shnakaracharya Peeta) on the peak. Shankaracharya spent 12 years of his life here and he installed the first temple here and later in Kollur. On the way I met a villager who walks about 10 Km daily to sell butter milk and snacks near the peak. I was touched by his story. Questions began to rise in me – How much would he earn? Is it worth all this pain? …I preferred not to answer my questions.

Moment -7
At the peak, I met two old men from Kasargod. We discussed about their travel and Yakshagana. They recalled the older times when the drum beat of yakshagana would attract a huge crowd as the sunset and would keep them entertained all night. They forced me to go to Chitramulla which was 1km down the mountain, claiming it was a beautiful sight from there. Some of my friends did not wish to hike. He told me- Tomorrow after you go back and people ask you whether you had visited Chitramulla, you would feel bad to reply no. I had made up my mind instantly after listening to that and for the visit , it turned out to be the best part of the entire trip.

Moment -8
Chitramulla is a steep hike down the summit on the other side. A cave where Shankaracharya meditated overlooks the Ambha vann. A natural spring falls beside the cave year round and is considered sacred. The water was very sweet and I kept going back to drink. I met two swamis’ here; a man and woman from Kerala. My broken Malayalam and a translator among the visitors helped me understand the conversation. I thoroughly enjoyed every single word that the two swamis’ spoke to me. The man had walked all the way from Shabarimale (Kerala). He said they would spend few months here. Biscuits or just water was their food. He showed me the bottle of water and said – One can spend days with just this. Kollur temple is viewable from here on a clear day. When asked, if he would visit the temple during festival, he said – It is too crowded there, but from here it is just Goddess and me. I was touched by their simplicity and niceness. I found them to be so peaceful and happy. On their face, as they spoke was a smile that I had never seen before on anyone. I wondered if it is possible to maintain a balance between the two worlds that looked so apart yet so united.

Moment -9

The view from summit was amazing. The clouds had spread everywhere and we looked down at them. As the time for sunset arrived, the clouds cleared and unwrapped a orange sun as it melted its way into the grayness.

Moment 10

Next morning we left early to watch the sunrise at a near by hill. After having breakfast there, the group decided to hike down. Five of us stopped back for a while and watched the nature blend together. Several nice thoughts emerged out in me which I recorded in my journal then and there. We did not speak at all but heard the birds chirp; trees swing slightly with the breeze; clouds flow into valleys like a water fall at still. It was an amazing moment. I wondered if nature speaks only when man is silent. Today I wonder what each one of us were thinking at that same instant? After that 5minutes of silence, we walked back. But on the top of Kodachadri hill, just after sunrise, there was a moment which summarized the entire trip into a meaningful purpose.

Thanks to my friends for these wonderful glimpses they have captured.

Each beach in Gokarna is a lazy man’s paradise. Stay and eat at a beach side hack/cafe/hotel/resort. Lie on the  beach – on a bed-sheet with a hat over your face to avoid sun/eye-contact, or with the sun scorching your back. Or, read a book lying on a towel and in your bare minimum. And the best part, wear almost anything that you want (just that you have to wear something) – barmudas with sleepers, Alibaba pants and top, or a skirt of any shape and size.

There are five beaches in Gokarna – Gokarna, Kudle, Om, Half Moon and Paradise, in that order.

Gokarna Beach at Dusk

Gokarna Beach – It lies close to the town and is frequented by locals and tourists alike. The beach is close to the Mahabaleshwar Temple, a very old Lord Shiva temple that has an associated legend as well. At the beach, you can spot families, young and elderly couples, single and group travellers. It goes without saying – several fast food joints and the groundnut/balloon sellers adorn the shoreline. In the vicinity, you will find plenty of hotels, food joints and garments/puja shops. A word of caution here for tourists:  Avoid wearing skimpy clothes in the area. Since the ancient temple is nearby, this part of Gokarna is more of a pilgrim town than a beach town. You wouldn’t want to be an eye-sore for the locals just for your choice of clothes.

Kudle Beach

Kudle Beach – Is mostly frequented by foreigners and is almost a kilometer long, pretty wide as well. This gives you ample space to engage in the usual beach games, bonfires etc. Rocks, and plenty of them, adorn the sea shore. You’d find foreign tourists (mostly, but some Indians as well) staying in the shacks – sleeping, eating, drinking and reading.  I spotted the “Shantaram” being read atleast atleast thrice! King Fish delicacies are very tasty and are reasonably priced, in fact cheaper than most restaurants in Bangalore. The eateries play continental/Israeli music all the time. You could also beach trek from Kudle to Mahabaleshwar Temple.

OM Beach

OM Beach – This beach is around 20 minutes of an auto ride from the Gokarna bus stand. Certainly the best of the five Gokarna beaches, the beach derives its name from the Hindu religious symbol – OM, since its shape resembles that of the symbol. The ‘OM’ shape is pretty evident when you see the beach from the hillocks on the either side. However, the right side gives a better view than the left. Consequently, the picture you take would be mirror image of the OM symbol. The beach is the longest among the five beaches and is frequented by Indian and foreign tourists alike. You can stay at the Namaste Café which overlooks the OM Beach, or at any of the several shacks that are scattered around the beach. There is also the Swaswara resort as well, a hundred odd meters away from Om beach. There are three equidistant rocky patches at the beach. Two things you shouldn’t miss at OM – sitting atop each rock patch and the morning jog.

Half Moon Beach

Half Moon Beach – It’s a tiny beach and can be reached by beach trekking from Om, or by paying INR 200 on a ferry boat. But the ferry ride wouldn’t allow you to spend much time at the beach. The beach has huge rocks as well. There’s a hut and you may as well get some food there. Once here lose yourself and merge with the tranquil surroundings.

Paradise Beach – The fifth and the last beach in the series, and it befits its name. You have to beach trek for about 20 min from Half Moon beach to reach Paradise beach. There are a couple of beach cafes as well.

Tips…
1. Be careful while swimming, as the sea is shallow at some places and there are several cases of death due to drowning reported every year here.
2. As usual, bargain hard with the sellers – beads sellers, clothes and accessories sellers, musical instruments sellers etc.
3. Take mosquito repellent and a bed-sheet with you.
4. Try beach trek – there are at least four options. If you can’t beach trek at all, you can see the beaches on a ferry boat – at INR 200 per head.
5. Take your swimwear with you – there aren’t too many beaches in India where you can wear them without being ogled. So, don’t miss this opportunity.
6. Don’t wear bikini at the Gokarna Beach – this may offend the local people and the police. But you may wear them at the other four beaches.
7. Don’t miss the morning jog at OM beach.

We were in Malenadu or the hilly regions of Karnataka looking for a humble beginning of a dynasty which had ruled this region more than thousand years ago. This was not a pleasure trip, but a journey that took us down eons of history , a quest in search of folklores and myths that gave an identity to the Hoysala Dynasty .Our destination was Angadi, a small hamlet lost in the hills of Karnataka, enveloped by coffee plantations and lush green fields.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

We stopped by at a small town, Janapura to have some tea and take in the fresh air.The directions were loud and clear. Angadi was a further 6 kms away. In about ten minutes we were there. A small village with a few houses scattered here and there , a couple of shops, a lone bus stand and green fields. At first glance, it looked like just another hamlet lost to the world. And yet, it was the cradle of a dynasty that built beautiful temples and made several conquests . However to our eyes, there was nothing historic about it. And then we took a short stroll, wondering if we had indeed come to the right village. To prove us right, stood a faded old relic under the shade of a tree ..a Hoysala inscription . We were indeed on the right track.

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Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

Angadi in Kannada means shop, but we hardly found any shops around . Surrounded by coffee plantations and open fields, it seemed to be a sleepy market . We finally found a small shop and asked them the route to the “ Devasthanam “. A couple of hands pointed uphill which took us through a coffee plantation which led to mud roads which split into two. There was not a soul around. We followed the road going upward and encountered steep hairpin bends which curved through the coffee plantations and led us to the Durga or the Vasantha Parameshwari temple . And this was the setting of the origins of the Dynasty. It took us to a scene enacted thousand years ago.

Hoy Sala ” ( Strike Sala ! ) said the guru Sudatta Muni to his student , Sala who was in an armed combat with a tiger . The beast had just attacked the duo who were immersed in rituals at a Durga or Vasantha Parameshwari temple in a village called Sasakapura or Sosevur. The student struck the animal in one blow, immortalizing himself and his victim . The guru was so pleased that he asked Sala to establish a kingdom and the Hoysala dynasty was established with Sosevur as the capital . The folklore became so popular that every temple of the Hoysalas has this story carved in stone and it became the royal emblem of the dynasty. Historians however do not accept this myth as they attribute the sculpture to the victory of the Hoysalas over the Cholas . The incident , nevertheless is believed to have happenned at Sasakapura or Sosevur which is today identified as Angadi, a small hamlet in Chikmagalur district in Karnataka. The temple of the Goddess , along with the ruins of more temples and Jain basadis is the only proof of this myth .

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

The Hoysalas were not born kings but they ruled for 300 years . They were natives of Malnad, Karnataka and were tribal chiefs who were subordinates of the Western Chalukyas. Some inscriptions show them as lords of the Male (hills) while some indicate that they were descendants of the Yadava clan. Historically though the first Hoysala family record is dated 950 and names Arekalla as the chieftain, followed by Maruga and Nripa Kama I (976) .

But the kings who shaped the dynasties were Vishnuvardhan and Veera Bhallalla who became independent from the Chalukyas . They are remembered today for their patronage to arts along with their exploits on the battlefield – a baffling 1500 temples built in 958 centres, of which the two famous ones are Belur and Halebid which were the capital cities of the dynasty. However, hardly a 100 survive today. Our trail had taken us down to 25 villages including Angadi , the original capital of the empire, where it all began.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

The Durga temple was renovated and was well maintained . It did not look like a typical Hoysala temple either , going by their style . A tall structure supported by pillars with sculptures stood close by. The priest explained to us that the temple, which has been renovated recently was the original temple where Sala had killed the legendary tiger. The pillars he said were used as a swing to cradle the Gods during festivals. I had read that there was the ruins of a Chennakesava temple here similar to the Belur temple . We asked him where the ruins were and he told us to go down and follow the roads below . We were told that there were three temples as well as Jain basadis .

The priest guided us and we followed the road until we came to almost a dead end. There seemed to be a rugged path above as we climbed on the rocks that led us inside the coffee plantation. We saw a few basadis with some sculptures inside while a few were left wide in the open. It was silent except for some parakeets which were shrieking in excitement. We almost thought the place was to ourselves when we heard some voices . We squinted through the trees and found some workers. We went down and climbed another path where the ruins of the three temples awaited us .

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

The Chennakesava temple , along with Patalarudeshwara and Mallikarjuna lay absolutely in ruins.The structures were being laid by the ASI workers who had just begun restoring these temples. The idols and sculptures were kept safely, especially the Chennakesava which stood in all its glory in the glare of the setting sun. As the sun touched down, we sat a while on the broken pillars gazing at the strewn idols and wondering about the times when a dynasty was laying its foundation stone in a small village. It dawned on us at that very moment, that we had just walked into a historic moment.

Getting there - Angadi is 18 kms from Mudigere and 25 kms away from Belur. The ideal route from Bangalore would be to reach Belur and take the Mudigere route . At Janapura, one needs to take a left and Angadi is 6 kms from the junction. You can also reach Angadi through Sakleshpur and Chikmagalur .

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]]> http://www.clubmahindrablog.com/angadi-the-birth-of-the-hoysala-dynasty/feed 11 http://www.clubmahindrablog.com/karwar-an-idyllic-beach http://www.clubmahindrablog.com/karwar-an-idyllic-beach#comments Mon, 17 Nov 2008 17:26:02 +0000 Lakshmi Sharath http://www.clubmahindrablog.com/2008/11/17/karwar-an-idyllic-beach/ Karwar is beautiful . If you have ever dreamt of being in tune with the waves, bobbing along with the flow and gazing at the blue green waters, then look no further. Located just 8 kms from Goa, along the same coastline , it is completely different from the party destination with idyllic beaches . On one side is the narrow coast embracing the sea, while on the other side, the Western Ghats stand tall. Straddling both mountain and sea, Karwar is a nondescript little town perched in between, oblivious to its own beauty.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

Our first view of Devbagh was in the dark. After several stops enroute to Karwar, we got stalled by a traffic jam near the port where iron ores to be exported gets dumped by lorries. The road at some stretches seemed red. We were staying at the Jungle Lodges property at Devbagh and we quickly called the manager at the resort to inform him of our delay.A boat was waiting for us in the dark as we made our way to the jetty,which looked like a dilapidated boat house . We sailed across the sea in the night and reached the island.

The moonlight was a muse to none other than Tagore who was inspired by Karwar to pen his Prakritir Pratishodh. A beach here still remains in his memory. It is said that the 22 year old Tagore stayed with his brother , Satyendranath Tagore, who was the district judge in Karwar. The confluence of the rivers and the moonlight night when he went rowing solo promoted him to write his ode to Karwar. The quote I read somewhere says – “The sea beach of Karwar is certainly a fit place in which to realise that beauty of nature is not a mirage of imagination, but reflects the joy of the infinite and thus draws us to lose ourselves into it.”

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I was told that the name Karwar itself is a misnomer.It was originally “Kadwad” and one theory is the British mispronounced the “d” and replaced with a “r”. Kadwad is actually a village where the English had a factory which opened out to the sea .Besides monuments from the colonial era, this ancient beach town flaunts several attractions such as the Sadashivgad Hill Fort with a Durga temple, the one-of-its kind octagonal church and the 300 year old Venkataramana temple .

While the British made this their headquarters , Karwar has been claimed by several Europeans such as the Portuguese, French , Dutch. But the influence that remains here till today is that of the Arabians , who have had trade with the localities even before the European invasion. There is an ancient port where commodities were exported and the port is called “Baithkhol” which in Arabic means bay of safety.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

We strolled around Devbagh — the name literally means the garden of gods. Several tiny islands ring the Devbagh island — Kurumgad, Oyster-rock, Anjudeep, Sadashivgad and Sanyasi. A tale rings around all these islands. The Sanyasi island for instance owes its name to a sage who sought refuge here . The Devgad Island or the Oyster Rock has one of the oldest lighthouses atop .

The Anjudeep or Anjudiv island is the largest of the five islands and it is now home to the navy. The island has some remains of the bygone Portuguese era, some old houses and ruins of a church .

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

The Kurumgad island in the shape of the tortoise was ruled by several dynasties like the Vijayanagar and Sonda. The 18th century fort here that lies in ruins here speaks of the battle fought by Basalinga Nayak of Sonda dynasty against the British

The island is also renowned for its Narasimha temple atop the hill. According to a legend, Lord Narasimha made his way through a long creek leading to a cave near the temple. Geologists, however, certify that an earthquake formed this interesting rock formation over 300 million years ago .

A hazy blue covers my eye lids as the waves frolic around my feet. The foam merges with the sand . I leave my footprints on the sands of time and look straight into the blue and white waters, wondering about the timelessness of the moment…

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

Pic : Gowreesh K

Karnataka state government declared 5,587 acres of Bilikallu Reserve Forest as Daroji Bear Sanctuary in 1994 to protect the bear. The sloth bear population is today estimated about 120. They live in the naturally formed caves in the rocky mountains which are surrounded by dense forest.

Pic : Gowreesh K

We climbed up to the watch tower of the sanctuary from where the entire view of the sanctuary greeted us . As we looked into the vast expanse, we saw small black dots like pepper moving on rocks.The bears were walking around , blissfully unaware of us gazing at them in awe. Identifying them is like playing a game of hide and seek as they dart behind the rocks and emerge out of a thorny bush.

Pic : Gowreesh K

We learn a bit more about the bears from our guide Pampayya Swamy . These bears which live only in India and Srilanka are one of the 8 species of bears. “Look carefully at their chest and you can see a V or U shaped white strip ,” says Swamy adding that they can smell accurately even though their eyes may not be very powerful. “But be careful, they are very dangerous.. they can smell you or even hear you, they will usually run away , but will charge if they feel threatened” he murmurs.

Sloth bears love fruits and jackfruit is their favourite, says Swamy. I am reminded of Jungle Book as Swamy continues “These guys are always noisy while eating, can hear the sound up to 100 meters.”

Pic : Gowreesh K

The mating season is just over and slowly by winter, the sanctuary will be filled with cute hairless cubs who are born blind and will remain so for at least 3 weeks. The cubs need their mother for at least a couple of years before they are on their own and interestingly we are told that the bears have a life span of 40-50 years .

Pic : Gowreesh K

The silence is punctuated by the calls of the other animals & birds. Besides sloth bear the peacocks are well populated here – you can hear a song of peacock and the other birds all the time . Daroji is also home to leopards, hyenas, jackals, star tortoise, monitor lizards, mongoose, porcupines and birds like pea fowls, partridges, painted Spur hens and quails . Swamy who helped to identify the birds told us that close to 90 species of birds and 30 varieties of butterflies flit around here.

Pic : Gowreesh K

We trek into the forest and see some bears at close quarters..they gaze at us for a while before disappearing into the caves . It is amazing and terrifying .to see the wild animals in their natural habitat , while we are on outside our turf. For a moment , I thought the world of Jungle Book had come alive and I was Mowgli coming back home..to the wild

How to reach

By Road: Bangalore to Chitradurga (199 kms) on NH-4, then to Hospet (135 Kms) on NH-13. And then to Kamalapura (12 Kms)-which is 10 Kms from the Sanctuary. It is 15 kms from Hampi.

By Rail: Nearest railway station is Hospet where trains from Bangalore and Hubli are accessible.

The famous wildlife photographer & ex MLA Y.M. Gorpade is played a major role in declaring this place as a sanctuary . Jungle Lodges is planning to develop the sanctuary into a tourist destination. There is only a guest house available which has tented accomodation . You could do it as a day trip as well from Hampi . Pampayya Swamy who is a guide and naturalist will also organise the trip and can be contacted at 09449136252. The best season is between August to April .Summer can be very hot though.

Pic : Gowreesh K