Island – the word evokes memories of childhood classics such as Robinson Crusoe, The Swiss Family Robinson and Treasure Island. These were some of my favourite books and there have been times I have wondered what it would be like to be actually marooned on an island, cut off from the rest of the world. Well, I live on an island (Bombay), but there is no feeling of being cut off from the world – in fact, it is more crowded and noisier than many other cities, and there doesn’t seem to be the remotest chance of my being marooned on some uninhabited island. So much for fantasies……

However, this vacation brought the fantasy as near to fact as it is possible in these days of faster and more efficient methods of communication, when we visited Poovar.

When my husband first suggested Poovar for our annual vacation, I asked him, “Where on earth is that?” So much for my awareness of places in my own country! He told me to look it up on a map, and that is when I realized that it was an island! That is what began my fascination with the place. The fascination grew when I learnt that it wasn’t just an island. There was a river merging with the sea, backwaters galore and the wide open sea all around! Just imagine – this is a place which is an island, set at the mouth of an estuary, with a beach on one side and backwaters on the other, with small lakes all over! This was a place which captured my imagination at once!

We flew down to Trivandrum, my son jumping with excitement at the sight of the vast blue sea and the deep green palm trees welcoming us to God’s own country. We spent a day at Trivandrum, visiting the temples and palace before heading out to Poovar. Instead of hiring a car, we decided to take an auto, a decision which turned to be wise, as our driver kept us regaled with his pronouncements about all the tourists who turned up.

The auto dropped us at the Poovar jetty, from where we took a boat to the Club Mahindra Floating Palms resort, where we had booked rooms. The ride is free for those who have reservations, but I wonder how many people actually turn up at such a remote place without reservations!

The ride to the resort was a wonderful journey, as we passed fishing boats with locals in them, the backwaters lined with cormorants. My son, who is just getting to recognize birds, squealed excitedly as a kingfisher swooped down to catch a fish, and a cormorant turned towards us lazily, perhaps wondering why humans were staring at them and pointing them out to others!

At the resort, we found that we had not been lucky enough to get one of the floating cottages, but the rooms we got were good, built amidst pools of water, and connected by wooden bridges. This again excited my son, who noticed fishes and crabs in the water, and spent most of the day standing on the bridges, looking out for them!

We spent three days at Poovar – three glorious days, when we did nothing but relax. It was hot in the afternoons, but the mornings and evenings were just right for a leisurely walk. The high point of the stay though was the backwater cruise.

The local fishing boat was itself a novelty, but even more were the fabulous sights. Green was obviously the dominant colour, closely followed by blue, but before this trip, I wouldn’t have been able to imagine so many shades of just these two colours! We took a cruise around the island, observing the darker shades of the backwaters as they merged into the lighter shade of the sea, the whole stretch of blue bordered by the green – lush green grasses and palm trees. It was difficult to distinguish between bluish-green and greenish-blue, and I was as excited as my son when we saw a purple heron disappearing into the foliage.

Amongst all these outpourings of nature were a few rude awakenings too, as we realized that this was not the only resort in this place. There were two others, one recently built, catering to the masses of tourists arriving in the peak season, and more were coming up! As we turned back towards home, lingering a while to see the sun set over the horizon, I could not help, but wonder if the place would manage to retain its identity and abundance of natural beauty a few years from now.

I am no water baby. I prefer water at a close but safe distance – close enough for me to be able to hear the myriad gentle sounds that water makes but far enough for me to feel safe about not drowning (yes, I know but we all have different fears). Cherai is perfect for me that way – just what the doctor ordered. The Cherai Beach Resort where I stay has cottages built around the water, and around the coconut trees – my room had a tree in one corner, growing out through the roof. From my room, I can see the backwaters stretching out blue and green, still but for the occasional splash splash of boats making their way across, or the sea gulls calling out to one another. And from the main gate, the beach is just across the road – Cherai, not yet Goa, not even Kovalam.

At dinner in the restaurant, a couple from Europe walk in with a Bisleri bottle filled with a thin white liquid – toddy. The restaurant manager freaks at the sight of the toddy, hurries into the kitchen and walks out with a sheet of silver foil. He proceeds to cover the Bisleri bottle with the foil, apologizing to the startled couple – no permit… cannot drink in restaurant… can give you tea cups… I overhear snatches of his speech, ears on their table, eyes on my book. He places white tea cups (with saucers, the terrible restaurant variety) in front of them, pours out the toddy into the cups and offers them the cups with a flourish. The couple is terribly embarrassed by now, and I am choking with laughter over my tender coconut water – drunk straight from the coconut, no tea cups for this one.

I could spend hours just staring the backwaters – and I do just that. Watching the birds swoop down to pick up their lunch – or evening snack, as the case may be. And the tiny fish go plop plop as they hop – or do they fly? – on the surface of the calm water. And the fishermen who paddle quietly across the water through the day. As I watch, dawns break over the backwaters, the sky slowly picking up the orange hues of the sun, the water reflecting the tones. Three fishing boats moving in synchronized fashion, they stop at the same spot, their boats forming a triangle of sorts, and spread out their nets at the same time, their hands flying out with the nets in some kind of fascinating water ballet. And then they move on a few meters along the water and the ballet begins all over again.

Another fishing boat comes very close to where I am standing, just by the side of the water inside the resort and I am able to see them in action – one man in charge of rowing and the other, of fishing. Against the morning sun, the waters, their boat and even their silhouettes seem a dull orange… and as they turn the corner, moving away from the sun, they reappear in dull greys and black and white, in some ways even more fascinating than the “color version”.

The Cherai backwaters are not as lively, as vibrant and full of activity as the ones in say, Alleppey where life exists on and along the water. There are few houses I can see on the banks, even during my hour long boat ride in the evening. But then, Cherai is not for those who crave activity. In any case, if the backwaters get too dull, then they can always head out to the beach just across the road…

When you really want something, the whole universe conspires to help you realise your desire.

The surging crowd at the Mumbai airport the day immediately after the voting day was a stark contrast not only to the empty voting centres but also to the cloudless empty skies of the city. The smouldering heat of midsummer afternoon was stinging the eyes as we boarded the aircraft on the tarmac.

The air route from Mumbai to Trivandrum, specially for those sitting on the right side of the plane, is monotonous as the only features visible of the terra firma are: a shore line and the vast sea, made further hazy due to rising heat.

Closer to Trivandrum, the pre-monsoon clouds in the sky surrounding the aircraft, were the first welcome change in the sky while the huge pool of backwaters were changing the landscape . Soon, the aircraft glided with flaps readying for landing towards the land, the sea changed its colour, waves could be seen rocking over the beach seemingly golden with evening sun, and first sight of Trivandrum was a land thickly carpeted green with canopies of coconut plantations. An apt sight while landing in Kerala – the land of Kera (coconut), this sea of tranquility seen on arrival at Trivandrum was a perfect precursor to an idyllic holiday in which our first destination was Ashtamudi.

The random explorations of ours at Ashtamudi culminated in entire montage of memories – morning sunrays weaving their way through numerous Chinese fishing nets, Brahminy kites taking a flight at the break of dawn and intermittently wheeling overhead eyeing the catch of fishermen, small houses with thatched roofs on both sides of the lake using lake for regular transportation the way we use roads, a couple of ferries working late in the night – their reflection in dark waters resembling mumbai’s local trains on a day of heavy rains, bright eyed children with unbridled joy in the surroundings devoid of anything resembling comforts, a couple of fishermen fishing barehand after the dusk with the help of a petromax lamp submerged into the water, an old lady working on her coir making equipment converting a shade full of coconut husk into coir, another lady rowing a boat on her own making her own statement about women empowerment, sounds emerging of a choir singing in the church on one of the evenings, elephants decked up and readied for the procession of the temple festival at Chavara South or wonderful rendering of hindi movie songs – new as well as of yesteryears, by guest singer Mr. Shibu at the Resort.

As the weekend ended, we started the manic monday drive to Poovar – biding audieu to the lake & sea-shore of Kollam, with images of the lazy holiday– some my camera could capture while most of them remain captive to the memory. More of the images captured by camera during this part of our trip can be seen here

At a time when the world had long ago discovered the greens and blues of Kerala, the alluring backwaters of Alleppy and the warm beaches of Kovalam (and perhaps getting tired of the same images), director Maniratnam put a small spot in North Kerala on the map. Thanks to his evocative shots of lovers torn apart by a hostile world (in his movie ‘Bombay’), suddenly the rain-drenched ramparts of Bekal became one of the most romantic destinations within Kerala. It seemed the perfect rendezvous, hidden in the heart of Kerala and far from prying eyes. And the canny Kerala government seized this opportunity with both hands and suddenly, God’s own tiny country was officially larger on the tourist circuit.

Pic : Charu

We feel a rush of anticipation as we drive towards the fort, a visit that has been planned for many years about to materialize. At first glance, the Bekal fort is unassuming, especially after the excitement created by the plethora of signboards that guide you towards it, all the way from Mangalore to the North or Trivandrum deep down South. It sits lonely and tired at the edge of the waters. But as you make your way slowly to the top of the fort and then walk around the edges, seeing the Arabian Sea stretch out in front of you, the magic of the location sinks in.

There are groups of young girls in their bright salwar kameezes and school children in their staid uniforms inside the fort at the time we visit, adding noise and color to the otherwise peaceful scene. Still high in the sky, the sun is far from ready to call it a day and the sea is still rough though tiny boats are making their way bravely into the choppy waters. At Bekal beach nearby, crowds have already begun to troop in to watch the famous sunset on the Arabian Sea, and on top of the fort, young couples and families with small children have found themselves little corners from which to enjoy the evening breeze.

Pic : Charu

The fort seems to rise majestically from the sea itself, the waves washing over its walls the way they have done for centuries now. Bekal fort is made of the stuff that signifies unfulfilled romance, secret yearnings and patient waiting. Looking at the way it stands tolerantly weathering the torrid rains of August and the white heat of May, it makes me wonder how many such lovers the fort by the sea has seen.

A short history of the fort

The fort in Bekal is considered the largest in Kerala, spread over 40 acres, and certainly the best preserved. It was built by Sivappa Naik sometime in the 1650s and is known for its defence architecture, which includes cunningly placed holes in the walls of the fort that aim at different points and distances; the holes at top meant for aiming far into the sea while the ones below to catch the enemy as they approach closer.

Pic : Charu

The fort was later captured by Hyder Ali of Mysore in the late 18^th century and then Tipu Sultan, under whom it served most as a defence citadel, especially during his march down South to capture the Malabar province. Recent excavations at the fort have brought to light different kinds of religious structures within the fort from the time of Tipu Sultan’s reign, including a darbar hall and temples, revealing the secular nature of his regime. Once Tipu Sultan fell, the fort passed into the hands of the British, when Bekal became the headquarters of the newly created Bekal taluk in the South Canara district. The decline of the fort began when South Canara district came under Madras province, and Kasarod taluk was established as the regional headquarters in place of Bekal. Today, the Archeological Survey of India maintains it, along with the Kerala Government which is doing a lot to promote the fort, and the region itself as a major tourist attraction.

Apart from Bekal fort which is today the most popular spot in the region, there are several other attractions in Kasargod which make it one of the more interesting regions in Kerala for tourists today. Kasargod is the northern-most district of Kerala, just South of Mangalore and culturally, has the feel of both Karnataka and Kerala. Similarly, there is also a lot of remaining influence from the Muslim rule, which flourishes peacefully with the rest of the Hindu and Christian communities who are part of the region. The entire area has a charming laid-back atmosphere which is not yet exposed to the overwhelming crowds of the rest of the state.

Pic : Charu

Water, water, everywhere…

If Bekal is Kasargod’s most famous landmark, I would say Nileshwaram is its best kept secret. There is nothing spectacular about the town itself; it lies 30 km to the South of Bekal by the banks of the Nileshwaram river. The town seems to have sprouted organically along the National Highway 17, with houses and small shops lining both sides of the road. We stayed at Nalanda Resorts in Nileshwaram, with rooms facing the placid river. It was early in the morning, on a boat ride on the river that we discovered the magic of life on and by the river.

Cruising slowly down the shallow river, only the steady hum of the motor boat to break the silence of dawn, we watched the town come to life, lazily stretching its arms towards a new day. A man walks, lonely and thoughtful on the bridge, the sun just climbing high in the sky just behind him. Fishermen are at work, busy in their own worlds, while other men in similar boats scout the river for silt. Our boatman explains that the sand from the shallow river is used in construction all over the region. Tiny birds are sitting on electric wires stretched across the river, flying away noisily at the sound of our approaching boat.

Pic : Charu

Thankfully, even today, Bekal fort or even the region of Kasargod is not as crowded with tourists as the South of the state is. Add to this good infrastructure and facilities, a combination that spells holiday heaven. For those tired of the well-publicized image of swinging palms and kettuvallams of South Kerala, here is the ideal getaway solution. This is the perfect place for anyone with a secret in his / her heart. And that is you and me and everyone else.

Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary, Wayanad.

The sun was setting down. My eyes were looking out of the jeep mechanically while the mind was still at Kuruvadweep thinking about the missed chance in visiting the place. It was my third jeep safari in two days, the first two were in Muthanga Wildlife Sanctuary. With Shashank settled in co-driver’s seat, I was all alone in the back. Except for some deer and bison sightings it was getting more like a jeep drive in a remote village. Blame it on the weekend crowd. We had completed almost three fourth of the safari and

Pic : Prashanth M

had to stop because of a traffic jam. It took us few seconds to understand what was happening. There was a herd of wild elephants which were crossing our path. Or to put it in a correct way, we were crossing their path and had to wait for our turn. There were 11 elephants in the group including couple of calves and the leader was standing in the middle of the jeep track while rest of the gang crossed the path. There were two jeeps in between our vehicle & the pachyderms looked as tensed as us. We were third in the queue waiting for the way to be cleared while there was another vehicle, a Toyota Qualis behind us (yes, private vehicles are allowed in Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary as long as it’s a four wheeler).

Pic : Prashanth M

The elephants took their own sweet time to cross the road while the leader kept an eye on us. The leader was not too happy with our intrusion & noise (engine & hush voices). As if this was not sufficient, a jeep came from the opposite direction, which meant we – the two jeeps in front of us & our jeep – were sandwiched between a not-so-happy-looking elephant & a vehicle some 15-20 meters behind us. The driver of the jeep who joined the party late understood the situation and slowly backed off. And our wait game continued.

Pic : Prashanth M

After what seemed like eternity (it was just a couple of minutes )the captain slowly gave way and started moving into the woods. The driver of the first jeep mustered up the courage and slowly moved ahead. Then the one in front of our vehicle started moving and we followed them. It was not all over but it was time for more drama. It started with the vehicle in front of us. We could not fathom what got into the driver of the jeep for all of a sudden he started honking while he sped away. We were then moving almost parallel to the leader elephant which was some 15-20 meters away and the pachyderm turned towards and started chasing us. I was looking out of the jeep to see the big mammal running towards us. It was the moment, the mind went blank. No thoughts, just void. It was a mock charge to shoo us away from its territory.

Today, the experience is etched in my mind.I’ve had similar experiences of getting blank few times, but this stands first in the list.Whenever I see a photo of an elephant or a video, I go back to my seat on the back of the jeep in Tholpetty.

My first trip after taking the Club Mahindra memberhsip was to head to Kerala (Munnar and Ashtamudi). I planned a 4 night stay in Munnar and 3 nights at Ashtamudi. Little did I know that these 7 days were going to be the most memorable of my excursions.

 We started our journey on a pleasant Tuesday morning and after 5 tiring hours of being driven from the Coimbatore airport, the resort was a very pleasant sight. Our fatigue just vanished!

Pic : Udit Baranwal

A beautiful steward welcomed us in, applying sandalwood ‘tika’ on our forehead, with its fragrant, heavenly aroma. The cottage we were put in was nothing short of beautiful, and presented us an amazing view of the Munnar Lake. Instantly, the shutterbug inside me took over and I started clicking photos.

Munnar is situated 1,800 meters (5,906 ft) above mean sea level and the temperature during our stay remained between 15 ^o – 21^o Celsius.

P.S. My wife likes the winter season and cold places. She now loves me more for I brought her here.

After dinner, we spent some time at the swing, looking down at the valley in darkness.  We realized how small Munnar was. It’s a very quiet hill station and its beauty lies in the tea plantations all around. Perfectly crafted in a symmetrical shape and size that is unbelievable.

Pic : Udit Baranwal

The next morning we headed to Mattaputty Dam, some 50 Kms from the resort and took a speedboat ride in the beautiful lake. What was amazing was the fact that he handled his boat with one hand at top speed and clicked my SLR camera with another at such an ease. Later back at our room, I checked the shots he had taken and they turned out to be the best of whole trip.

Pic : Udit Baranwal

Back at the esort, we indulged into various activities at the acctivity Center and for the first time I played the game of carrom with my wife. Speaking of games, the resort has a ‘giant chess’ and ‘mini golf’. Chess was fun to play and we burst into laughter as my wife outsmarted me and finally beat me.

After 4 days (and a few kgs. more), we bid goodbye to the courteous staff at the Club Mahindra Lakeview Resort.
We headed to the Club Mahindra Backwater Retreat, Ashtamudi. This beautiful resort is situated in the Kollam district in Kerala. Ashtamudi means ‘eight armed’ and is named after eight arms of the Ashtamudi Lake. Here too, even though it took us 7 tiring hours to cover a distance of 300Kms, the effort was worth it.
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Pic : Udit Baranwal

If cottages and the view at Munnar were beautiful, Ashtamudi was a site to behold. The sea started just 15 steps from our cottage and we were thrilled by the excitement. A hammock right in front of our cottage had me and my wife clamour for it!.

Next day we were invited to take a ride in the resort’s own cruise boat ‘Breeze’, which gave us an opportunity to savour the sights of the backwater. Small villages around it, people engrossed in daily activities and using small boats for conveyance was an amazing sight. You can also dine aboard the boat.

Pic : Udit Baranwal

A visit to the Kollam market was all my wife wanted as soon as we had landed here. She had heard a lot about the speciality of south Indian gold ornaments, silk saris, cashew nuts, spices and wanted a bit of everything. Later, we stopped to have a hearty meal at a local restaurant. There is something special about Kerala cuisine that makes even the simplest of dishes a treat. A very common dish, the “Fish Fry” never tasted this good anywhere in North India. The quintessential “Parota”, made it taste even better. It was only here I saw peas being used in chicken curry. I didn’t mind them. I think coconut oil has done the same wonders to Kerala cuisine as olive oil has done to the west.

We also got an opportunity to visit the Quilon Lighthouse. Close to 200 spiral steps later, we reached the top and met with a breathtaking view of the Kollam City covered with coconut trees and water.

Pics : Udit Baranwal

Back home, the nostalgia of our visit began to hit us. 3 days later, as we were chatting over tea and gobbled some Kerala snacks ’Shakravaratti‘ (Banana chips coated with Jaggery), she commended me on our decision. I couldn’t be more happier!

Wayanad is of the most beautiful districts of Kerala. Green it is; this monsoon God’s Own Country seemed greener than ever. Six hours drive from Bangalore and we were there bag, baggage and kids.

Our first destination was Pookote Lake, three km from Vythiri. Pookote Lake is a large natural, fresh water lake surrounded by hills and meadows. It is a typical picnic spot with boating facilities, horse rides for children, an aquarium, handicrafts and spices counter and even a small nursery. A boat ride in the lake was relaxing.

Pic : Indrani

Lakkidi, view point, wo km from Pookote Lake. Situated on a hair pin bend of Thamarassery ghat road, the view we witnessed from the sight seeing point was simply mesmerizing! Stretches of greenery as far as the eye could see, black serpentine roads winding up the hills and miniature trucks plying on them. The air is so fresh and pure that you will be tempted to practice pranayama right there.

Soochipara falls. Was nature competing with herself? This fall is 22 km from Kalapetta, which we covered in a local jeep. After that the two km down hill trek to the falls was easy. (Be a little cautious while maneuvering your limbs on moss laden rocks in the last stretch).

Pic : Indrani

The trekking path was litter free; we passed not a single soul, not even a chaayakada (teashop)! The 200m fall that we witnessed there was a big reward for small effort.

Pic : Indrani

Next day we headed to Edakkal caves.

The actual entrance to the cave is just five feet by four. What looks like a cave is basically a rock shelter formed by two huge rocks on either side, with a third enormous boulder forming a sort of roof resting on them. Once inside you will find you’re face to face with history. Both sides are engraved with human and animal figures from floor level to roof. Most conspicuous was the figure of what seemed to me that of a man with an extra long left hand and a bent right hand holding an unclear object, and raised hair. Wonder who the model was! Perhaps an ancestor of 7-Up’s animated cartoon mascot?

Pic : Indrani

The trip downhill was equally tiring and adventurous, because by then fear had set in along with darkness – what if someone misses a step? Well you won’t actually roll down the mountain, but you are sure to show signs of a fall here and a bump there. My considered opinion – the trip can be a good practical lesson for students getting introduced to the subject – History.

Fact File

How to get there
By Air: Closest airport is Kozhikode, 100kms from Wayanad.
By train; well connected by rail, nearest station Kozhikode 110 km from Wayanad
By Road: well connected and can be easily accessed from any part of Kerala.
By road from Bangalore: Bangalore – Mysore – Gundlupet on NH-212 – take the turn west towards Sultan Bathery – Kalapetta – Vythiri town

More places to see
Chembra Peak
Kuruva Island
Muthunga wild life Sanctuary
Pakshipathalam
Pazhassi Raja Tomb
Kanthanpara Waterfalls
Banasura sagar Dam
Sentinel Rock Waterfalls

The kohl brimmed eyes smile at me coyly. ”It is the jasmine flavour,” she says by way of introduction . My eyes close as a heady fragrance lulls me to sleep. The distant flicker of the lamp goes slowly out of focus. A lilting melody floats out of nowhere.

“This is the Shrishruka thailam .It treats sinus,” she adds softly. I open my eyes as she pours the oil from a miniature bronze jar onto her palms. Sandhya, my therapist  is a demure young woman whose delicate fingers work magic on my scalp .

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I am in  God’s own country , getting a taste of God’s own medicine  at Svaastha, an ayurvedic spa started by Club Mahindra in Ashtamudi. Outside the waters from the lake are gently lashing against the coconut trees as the sun ‘s rays paint silvery hues.

I try not to think. After all massages are about shutting your mind and pampering your body. The fingers soothe every ache and coax the rigid muscles as they move from the head to the neck .I feel the essence of ayurveda inside me – a harmony of mind, body and spirit . I float into semi-consciousness . The wooden bed is soaked with the oil –Pinda thailayam as Sandhya deftly strokes my body, caressing and  fondling it . She suddenly pounds  it and awakens every dormant muscle. Her fingers go deep, the strokes get faster and then she gently lets go .I become limp and let my senses take over .The herbal steam lets my skin glisten as the warmth seeps into my body.

I am in the hands of divine medicine, created by Brahma himself and Dhanvantri,“ That’s Ayurveda, a 4000 year old science, a part of Atharvana veda, created by the gods and preserved by man ,”explains ayurvedic doctor Ratheesh Kumar who hast just  diagnosed that my body is a “pitha-vatha combination.” He  refers  to the bio energies in the human body -  vatha, pitha and kafa .”Vatha is air and ether, pitha is fire and kafa is water and earth. “ he explains as ayurveda is based on these five elements called Panchamahabudhas .”

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I step out ,rejuvenated and the beauty is mesmerising .The breeze had just set in clearing the overcast clouds .The coconut trees gently swayed ,touching the backwaters which lashed against them. I stand at the edge of this wide shore and take in the scene , as Dr. Ratheesh joins me , exclaiming.“ This could not have been done by a human.. ..” I look up to see him holding a book on Ayurveda.

“Can you imagine 4000 years ago.. getting all the herbs from various parts of the country and mixing them in the right proportion ? I mean there was no documentation at all ,” adds the doctor about this science of life.
The Ashtamudi lake stretches out in front of my eyes with the coconut trees interrupting the seamless flow. Shades of blue emerge from the waters as I was lost gazing at the colours. It is one of the best kept secrets of Kerala.

The second largest lake after Vembanad and yet , tourism is a recent phenomena here. The Chinese nets lay scattered on the waters as the fishermen are waiting for the night to dawn. Small green islands glisten like emeralds against the blue horizon , some of them home to just three or four families. And their connection to civilisation is only through narrow canals and wooden bridges.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

I ask Dr Ratheesh as to why he chose to become an ayurvedic doctor . He laughs, amused .”As children, we used to go only to ayurvedic doctors even for a cold or fever like the way you go to a regular doctor.. its quite common in Kerala .There are universities teaching ayurveda here like allopathy ,” he adds, saying that he graduated from Trivandrum after a five year course.

I wonder how an ancient science like ayurveda has become an exotic treatment, restricted largely to resorts and a few centres.” Thats because tourism thrives on wellness , but ayurveda can even be used for surgery ,” explains the doctor adding that there are nine branches of ayurveda which includes general medicine, surgery, ENT, pediatrics, toxicology, gynecology ,psychiatry, infertility and anti-aging . Reading my mind, the doctor continues,” The basic principle of surgery as we know today was earlier created by Susruta, but after the advent of Jainism and Buddhism , dissection as we understand today was not encouraged.. then of course, western medicine took over..”

I sip cool coconut water and walk around the small herbs garden. My initiation into ayurveda continues .”There is hardly any documentation. Families have preserved the various formulae on palm leaf and hand written manuscripts and they have been handed down every generation. Thats how this science has actually survived across centuries.”

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

A lone boatman waves out to us . We walk towards the lake as he offers us a ride. The Kallada river empties into the Ashtamudi lake and creates eight branches giving the lake its name. “Its like an octopus with eight hands “ says my boatman Balu describing the lake. We discuss the route. I cross several small islands and go around the Thalababuram bridge . Balu  points to “ seacrows”  as the cormorants  dip their beaks in the waters catching their morning fish . The herons and storks give them company.

The villages make a pretty picture. Colourful houses in yellow, orange and lavender stand out amidst the blue green mosaic.  Life unfolds in these little villages. An old man comfortably reads the morning paper in his boat.Another duo are returning home. A young girl along with her father are rowing their mother to the neighbouring market. A group of villagers are dressed for church as they board the boat. Balu says the boats made of wood from mango trees is very sturdy .He gets animated when we discuss fishing.

Pic : Lakshmi Sharath

“ There are different specialists – for prawns, karimeen, crabs and even the local fish –Kuzhavali.” Balu then delves into the different kinds of nets and techniques used for fishing. However  the rods stand out as the nets are still not  ready . “Fishing happens only in the night madam, the fishermen are sleeping now,” he explains.

The early morning karimeen auction is just over. There is complete silence but for the breeze . The landscape is devoid of people , but for us. I look at the vast expanse of water, the sun’s rays stroking it, the birds and the islands.. Its little wonder why Kerala is called Gods own country. The doctor’s words come back “Svaastha or Ayurveda is a balance of body, mind and spirit ..” Cruising down the Ashtamudi lake, I feel the balance restored inside me.

Pic : Sharath K

Getting there
Kollam or Quilon is the closest town to Ashtamudi as its on the banks of the lake. The lake connects to the Arabian Sea forming an estuary and it can be viewed from the Needakara bridge enroute to the Kollam town. The beach at Kollam and the old lighthouse at Thangasherry are some of the common sightseeing options for tourists. There are very few resorts here, besides the Club Mahindra resort. A few homestays and small private resorts are available . House boats are available at Kollam as well. It is about 70 kms from Trivandrum International airport