Backpacking in South East Asia

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Backpacking in South East Asia


Though I have many memorable trips to my credit, my trip of a lifetime has to be this one, not for the ‘best’ travel experience but for some scary moments attached to this trip.

Right from stepping out of my house in Mumbai, this tour turned out to be so adventurous that I can actually write a book on it.
One of the islands
‘Backpacking’ word invites a certain notion about it. No five star hotels, nobody to see off and pick you up in chauffeur driven cars, no shopping sprees and no elite guided tours. Backpacking has its own charm and if you add ‘solo’ to it then it becomes superlative… especially for an Indian female like me.

To give you a gist, early this year I was on a 48 day solo backpacking trip to two countries… Malaysia and Thailand.I had no concrete plans as to what places to visit and for how long. For my whole journey I had short-listed just 2-3 places and for rest I depended upon locals.

I was told Thailand would be bad for a lone traveler especially when there was some internal disturbances in Thailand at that time. But my experience told something different.

If you go into the interiors of Thailand, you won’t find a trace of English anywhere. Except for bigger select cities, the signboards allover the country are in Thai language.

In spite of language barrier in Thailand, I hopped many islands, did snorkeling and camping, played football with coconut shells, did river cruising at Krabi, ate and relished street food, enjoyed the night markets, climbed 1200 steps for a temple, disliked Phuket culture, learnt a few Thai words and taught some English, helped a lady vendor and her grandson for 3 days to set up her food stall. Thai massage, caricature, tattoo were all part of the game. Did I mention by mistake I once had entered into a porn massage center ?

Except for one or two occasions such as the time I witnessed a whole night brawl just outside my bamboo hut in an isolated island Koh Lanta where I had stayed for 3 days; Thailand was great.

That incident started at 11 PM when I was trying to sleep in my hut. As soon as I heard the first noise, I was glued to the wall in dark fighting with giant mosquitoes and watched it through the gaps till the wee hours. And oh, in the evening I had spotted a snake on the floor of my hut. The floor was made of wooden planks. You can imagine how I would have stood there dumbstruck.

I was witness to throwing of liquor bottles, chairs, footwear some of which were inadvertently in my direction; slapping, biting, pulling hair, hurting each other to bleed and of course nice adjectives, blame game which ended with police and some arrests. But I repeat, Thailand was awesome; I’ll go there anytime again.
My cottage
Then I crossed the border between two countries overland and came to Malaysia.When I decided to alight at Alor Setar on my return journey from Thailand, I did not know what I had in store or what to expect from this small city in north Malaysia.

It is a Muslim dominated Malay town with very few Chinese and Indians descendents compared to other cities. The place is big enough to have an airport, a railway station and is a developed town.

Having stalked, surrounded and shoved by 8 taximen when I landed just after dark wasn’t going to be a good thing to start with. I had three fully packed pieces of luggage… one backpack, one large shoulder cum handbag which contained my laptop, camera, medicines, important papers and other necessities and one bag full of shopping goodies from Thailand. Yes, I was a fool to buy those artifacts.

I was looking for a modest nice motel/hotel to stay. The spot I was standing was supposed to be a busy market place, yet it was so deserted. Except a 7-eleven shop, all others had pulled the shutters down.

I started walking on the street looking for someone who could understand English and guide me. I reached a place where there was a bus stop and then there were some taximen. On this side some office buildings stood and on other side was another shopping mall which was dead by that time.
Alor Setar
The cabbies were watching my every move and they all came together to me. Before I could say anything, I was surrounded and shoved by 8 taximen. I counted the number later.

Only words I could understand were ‘hotel’ and ‘taxi’. One was pulling my bag and another held my hand. I yelled at them.

I could see they were laughing and making fun of me. I thought probably they’d go away if I threatened them to call the police. But this was a Muslim country and recently I had read in newspapers how a western woman was punished for tasting beer in that country. What if they tell some fake story to police.. about me making some indecent gesture or offending them in any manner? Will their police believe me or them ? I already had a bad experience with local police in Kuala Lumpur.
Mosque at Alor Setar
I won’t go into details as how finally I found my way to a small hotel after getting stalked in alleys by an Indian looking man who earlier had refused to help saying he didn’t belong to that town and later wanted me to follow him for some hotel. I was extremely terrified.

Sheer presence of mind, courage and an angel’s help saved me that day.
View frm Alor Setar Tower
Next day was no less eventful when I had gone to Alor Setar bus terminal to enquire about bus timings for further journey. None the less I stayed in that town for three days before moving to another small town called Ipoh. :)

This is one of the winning posts for the Trip of a Lifetime Contest. Congrats to the winner

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Bangkok memories

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Bangkok memories


The sights of Bangkok are perhaps the most well documented in travel blogs, books and guides.Some of my memories from Bangkok are showcased in the album here. I’d still like to talk about two sights that I recommend for anyone that makes it to the Thai capital.

The Vimanmek Mansion (In the Dusit Palace)
The Dusit Palace is an amazing collection of buildings and monuments that make for a great story about Thailand’s rich history and culture through the eyes of its Royalty. There are two throne halls and many residential halls in this complex, which are now used to exhibit various royal possessions, but the one stand out feature is Vimanmek – the world’s largest “golden” teakwood mansion. The construction of the garden and the mansion started in the year 1897 under the aegis of the then king Rama V.

Pic : Sumeet

There’s some rich history surrounding this building as it was the residence of the king and symbolizes a strong western influence on Thai architecture. I strongly recommend the 45 minute tour through the mansion that’ll give you glimpses of what its like to “live like a king”. The elaborate display of the kings silverware, ceramics, crystal ware, ivory and other antique possessions is bound to leave you amazed. You could visit the palace complex to just visit this one mansion. Remember however, that Thais are very particular about the respect paid to their royalty and they expect you to be “decently” clad when you visit these places. I was asked to borrow a pair of pyjamas from the counter (against a deposit of 1000 THB) since I was wearing shorts.

Obviously you could visit all of the other 15 buildings in the complex but if you’re short of time or patience, I’ll recommend the Anandha Samakhom Throne Hall and the Abhishek Dusit Throne hall which are not just amazing in terms of the collections and royal thrones that they host, but also in terms of the architecture of the the buildings. I’ll leave you to Wikipedia both these buildings if you’re interested in visiting either.

Pic : Sumeet

The Grand Palace and the Emerald Buddha built by King Rama I, who had decided to move his
capital for some reasons (which I don’t understand yet). If you look at the architecture of 218k sq meter
complex, you’d be amazed that this isn’t one of the wonders of the world. This complex not just houses
the erstwhile Royal residence and throne halls, but also a number of government offices as well as the
renowned temple of the Emerald Buddha – Wat Phra Khaeow.

Pic : Sumeet

The Emerald Buddha which is in fact an image carved out of green jade (where “Emerald” symbolizes only the green colour), is the most revered place of worship for the Thais. Its an extremely small image as opposed to many of the other large Buddha idols that you’ll see in the country (hardly 18 inches, I guess) though I must confess its one of the most beautiful. The image is clothed in three seasonal costumes for summer, monsoons and winter and the costume changes are usually presided by the king himself. The monastery itself is exceptional in that it has no residential monks and serves as the monarch’s private chapel. Its quite a surreal experience to be in the temple and to admire the amazingly beautiful Buddha image.

Before I sign off on this post, I’d like to throw in a few pieces of advice regarding sightseeing in Bangkok. Most of the sights of Bangkok are located in and around the Ratnakossin area/ district.Which is why I recommend taking residence in Chinatown/ Khaosan. This gives you almost unbridled access to all of the sights which you can choose to access on foot. That’s the other thing about touring Bangkok. You’ll usually be approached by 2 different kinds of people: tuk-tuk (auto rickshaw) drivers who promise to take you to all of the places for free if you promise to visit a certain store with them. Remember that the reassurance of “only look, no buy” is one you shouldn’t believe. More than the fact that you’ll feel compelled to buy something at these stores, you will also lose precious time by sitting in these tuk-tuks, “friendly” neighbourhood gents, who ask you where you’re from and where you’re going and let you know in a matter of fact manner that the place you’re going to is closed. These nice people will offer to take you to a really “nice, cheap” market for absolutely no charge. Guess who they are — tuk-tuk drivers! Chat with them for a while and they’ll take over your map and start marking out where they want to take you. The standard thing to do is pay no heed to anyone who tries to stop you — pretend you don’t understand English. If for some reason you do get stopped, say a firm “No!” and walk away.

Pic : Sumeet

Remember, most of Bangkok’s sights are best explored on foot or by river boat. Stick to those modes of transportation and take the skytrain or the metro for anything else and I guarantee you will be happy. One last piece of advice – if you want to shop in Bangkok especially for jewellery or suits or fabrics, make sure you look around for the best deal. Its quite easy to get conned in Bangkok, especially by people you’ll consider to be the friendliest. I can quote an example in Patrick’s Fashionway – a tailoring shop that features on the “Official Map of Bangkok” that’s distributed in the airport. These people will appear to be quite earnest but could end up charging you 4 times the market rate for a suit, if you were to let them have their way. Remember a suit in Bangkok, from a genuine Thai tailor shouldn’t cost you more than 4000 THB.
Remember also, not to view every Thai with suspiciousness — most of them are really nice people. Just be wary of the few shady characters that want to sell you the most touristy deals!

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Anuradha Shankar
Anuradha Shankar
A mother, traveller, freelance writer, compulsive bookworm.. not necessarily in that order. She lives in Mumbai and aims to travel as much as she can across the country. Her blog 'A Wandering Mind' is primarily a travel blog, but true to its name it wanders all the time - from events to random thoughts, book reviews to her son's latest peccadilloes!
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